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Aqaba might have only a handful of traffic lights but almost $13bn (€9.1bn) of investment is tearing up its streets. This massive cash injection (for a town of about 100,000 people) is set to transform a sleepy Jordanian port on the top tip of the Red Sea into a regional hub with world-class tourism and trade facilities. It’s one of the most ambitious overhaul projects in the recent history of the Middle East.

The signs of change are everywhere. Bulldozers are flattening a huge plot of land next to the border with Israel, preparing it for yet…

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