“Hat design is becoming simpler with more attention to small detail,” says designer Eric Berger who works for celebrated hatmaker Anthony Peto. The firm’s youthful small brims are the Parisian answer to Borsalino and Mühlbauer. Anthony Peto counts film director Jacques Audiard among its fans
for its use of luxury fabrics.
“Everything is handmade, hand-cut and hand-sewn in England,” says Bruce Montgomery, the consultant charged with injecting a contemporary edge into the
97-year-old menswear brand. Montgomery’s take on English staples such as Tattersall shirts, pea coats, blazers and trench coats is subtle but fun. Cutaway and penny round collars, printed patchworks and different coloured trims under collars are key looks.
The Italian brand synonymous with luxury knitwear launched its first collection under a high profile but undisclosed new designer. Amid a sea of pastel colours, the brand brought back design details such as dot openings on sleeves to denote size and the Avon Celli take on the polka dot that resembles an upside-down letter A.
One of the most crowded stands in the main pavilion was for buyers forming a stylish queue to snap up Drakes’ reversible printed scarves and raw-silk unlined ties. “We have expanded our lighter weight fabrics and are using lots of contrast,” said Michael Drake, while holding a particularly appealing scarf that was wool and cotton on one side and polka-dotted silk on the other.
Digging deep into its archive, the British brand updated its classic inventory such as the Bedale, Beaufort and Border jackets and deconstructed its former A-frames and offered them with a slimmer silhouette. “The collection has come from our heritage but this time with a contemporary spin,” says managing director Steve Buck.
Family-run shirtmaker Cristiani sources all its fabrics from Italy and mainly works with cashmere and cotton. The company was founded in 1971 by Nino Cristiani, who used to provide shirts for the likes of Gianfranco Ferré and Versace. He works with his three sons, Giuliano, Antonio and Massimiliano.
Founder Mario Boglioli was in high spirits as he talked about pioneering a new but relaxed formal style he called “the new classic”. Suits went lightweight, lining-free and wrinkle proof. “They’re comfortable, soft and easier to wear,” said Boglioli. The brand showcased chunky knitwear and an intricately sewn sweatshirt material jacket lined with goose down.