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Putting Beirut’s enduring clichés aside, you would be hard-pressed to find any other Middle Eastern city bearing graffiti by the Arab Lesbian Liberation Front. And nowhere else could you be eating organic tabbouleh while army tanks rumble past you late at night. Beirut is not about sound urban choices, green architecture or great public transport. As one friend put it,“buying a Humvee is still considered an ecological choice here.” Yet for all its contradictions, it is still a great place to live, with a palpable sense of freedom, a vibrant cre…


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