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Mark Todd pulls a series of six pizzas out of an oven, passing them one at a time under the noses of a gathering throng. He notes the unexpected odour a different cheese brings to each: the floral bouquet of lavender-scented jack on one, the mild funk of blue cheese off another.

Todd makes a particular show of the last, which he says is coated with 90 per cent standard mozzarella and the remainder a pungent “Schloss” from Marin French Cheese, the San Francisco-area cheese factory that is America’s oldest. “You’d never eat it on its own because it…



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