Food & Drink

Monocle travel guide— Global


This month Monocle visits a new luxury retail behemoth in Milan, a Yemeni coffee outlet in Tokyo and a Copenhagen restaurant serving New Nordic food at affordable prices.

Luxury, cafe, coffee, restaurant, retail



In a 4,000 sq m venue that used to house an old cinema in downtown Milan is Italian luxury retailer Gruppo Coin’s latest venture, the Excelsior, a department store where fashion and food mix. Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, the neon-bright building is a new landmark in the capital’s centre, stretching from Corso Vittorio Emanuele to Piazza Beccaria, taking up two sides of Galleria del Corso.

The shop’s top three floors offer clothing from brands such as Rag & Bone, Mackintosh and Borsalino while the basement is reserved for…

Q&A- Paul Pairet

Chef, Shanghai

Paul Pairet, the French chef behind Shanghai’s Mr & Mrs Bund restaurant, created what according to him is a multi-sensory eating experience with his 10-seat space called Ultraviolet. Machines pump aromas into the air and video screens and sound machines create a specific ambience to accompany 20 small-plate courses.

Why engage senses other than taste?
The point is that all the senses influence the way we eat. The experience of eating a dish on a beach is not the same as eating it in Paris.

How will the mood shift from course to course?
The scenarios will build with every course. First an apple wasabi disc is served with ringing bells, dark light and AC/DC music. There’s also the Indonesian Gado Gado experience — I use the scent of kretek, a clove cigarette typical of Indonesia, and the durian. Those two smells are very typical of Indonesia to me.

Could the technology distract from the food?
The goal is to the contrary —not to distract, but to focus. I can send a single light onto your dish, perfectly centered on your plate — you’ve never focused so much on food before.

Restaurant Listings


Moscow has long been famed for restaurants serving stomach-turning food at eye-watering prices but a new generation of chefs is revolutionising cuisine in the city. Chef Ivan Shishkin is one of four partners who set up the basement bar and bistro Delicatessen (pictured) in a courtyard off Moscow’s Garden Ring Road. The restaurant offers liqueurs and bitters made using cherries, currants and berries that grow wild in the Russian woods, and it serves hearty soups such as Tuscan ribollita. A regular traveller, Shishkin says he got used to eating affordable food made with locally sourced ingredients when he was overseas. “For too long restaurants in Moscow have been either very bad or bank-breakingly expensive,” he says. A short hop along the Ring Road is Ragout, a bar and café serving up a modern twist on Russian food, with surprising dishes such as beetroot and black bread ice cream and rabbit with wine-steeped apricots. Another newcomer is DoDo, which has won over diners with its outdoor terrace – during winter it offers warm delights such as sea-buckthorn and chocolate mousse.

Address book


20 Sadovaya-Karetnaya
+7 495 699 3952


21/2 Petrovka Street
+7 903 105 1010


69 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya
+7 495 662 6458


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