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  • Headquarters of the Chilean Navy, Plaza Sotomayor

    01Headquarters of the Chilean Navy, Plaza Sotomayor

  • Pacific sunset on a pier at Muelle Barón

    02Pacific sunset on a pier at Muelle Barón

  • The trolebús heads up Calle Prat, one of the flatter parts of the city

    03The trolebús heads up Calle Prat, one of the flatter parts of the city

  • Plaza Victoria

    04Plaza Victoria

  • Caro Nelvi, economist and yoga teacher with Juan Pablo Guzman, architect

    05Caro Nelvi, economist and yoga teacher with Juan Pablo Guzman, architect

  • The Cerro Alegre hotel

    06The Cerro Alegre hotel

  • View from the Cerro Alegre with the terrace of the Hotel Fauna on the right

    07View from the Cerro Alegre with the terrace of the Hotel Fauna on the right

  • Parque Cultural de Valparaíso (PCdV) a project by hlps architects.

    08Parque Cultural de Valparaíso (PCdV) a project by hlps architects.

  • Cranes for bulk cargo at Muelle Barón

    09Cranes for bulk cargo at Muelle Barón

  • Fresh local produce at the Cardonal market

    10Fresh local produce at the Cardonal market

  • Bar Inglés

    11Bar Inglés

  • Laura Moreno outside her restaurant/hostel, Espiritu Santo

    12Laura Moreno outside her restaurant/hostel, Espiritu Santo

  • Bartender in Pasta e Vino restaurant

    13Bartender in Pasta e Vino restaurant

  • Pedestrians at Plaza Victoria

    14Pedestrians at Plaza Victoria

  • Fun on four wheels at Plaza Victoria

    15Fun on four wheels at Plaza Victoria

  • Traditional bakery on Calle Independencia

    16Traditional bakery on Calle Independencia

  • Troops outside the National Council of Culture and Arts

    17Troops outside the National Council of Culture and Arts

  • Shops on Avenida Pedro Montt

    18Shops on Avenida Pedro Montt

  • Gran Hotel Gervasoni on Cerro Concepcion

    19Gran Hotel Gervasoni on Cerro Concepcion

  • Avenida Pedro Montt from Plaza Victoria

    20Avenida Pedro Montt from Plaza Victoria

  • Emilio Lamarca, a former diplomat who now owns gallery space Casa E

    21Emilio Lamarca, a former diplomat who now owns gallery space Casa E

  • Hotel Fauna restaurant and cafe terrace

    22Hotel Fauna restaurant and cafe terrace

  • Pascuala Ilabaca, singer-songwriter

    23Pascuala Ilabaca, singer-songwriter

Edits

Travel

Expo 55: Valparaiso— Valparaiso

Preface

After spending the late 20th century becalmed in quiet isolation, Chile’s second city is opening up to the rest of the world. But will World Heritage status, tourism and redevelopment corrupt the port’s cheerful bohemian atmosphere?

Architecture, Cities, Culture, Streets, Tourism

Why we love it

  1. A vibrant street culture – performers, artists and friendly locals bring public space to life.
  2. The markets selling Chile’s famous low-cost food, straight from farm and sea.
  3. The hills. There’s always another mansion or view worth the climb.
  4. Elevators. No better relief for the legs after a day climbing hills.
  5. The port’s wooden fishing boats, naval frigates and sea lions. 

Five fixes

  1. Signage. Street and square markers would make the city more navigable without ruining its ambience.
  2. Fruits and vegetables. Restaurants and hotels should give visitors a chance to try more of the fresh salads that Chileans enjoy at home.
  3. Careful with new development. Change is fine but take care not to ruin the city’s unique grace.A waterfront mall is a risky move.
  4. Use the water. Few residents and visitors make it onto the harbour, much less out to sea. Water taxis, fishing trips and wildlife viewing could grow.
  5. Fix the broken elevators. The national government plans to repair 10 hillside elevators over five years. Such micro-improvements are more helpful than mega-projects.

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