UNESCO's first City of Design, Buenos Aires enchants with its beauty and infuriates with its surreal lack of efficiency. While workers' strikes regularly shut down public transport and drum-beating demonstrators clog key streets, Buenos Aires still manages to function with energy and panache. The restaurants have theatrical waiters and delicious meat, the nights start late and end later, and yes, the attention to design truly inspires. But watch your step: the pooper scooper laws (like many in canine-loving Buenos Aires) are rarely, if ever, enforced.
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01
Essentials
| 01 |
Relax. Everything starts late. |
| 02 |
Male acquaintances kiss each other once on the right cheek upon meeting and parting. |
| 03 |
Buenos Aires is a sporty town. Pack for a run in the parks or a game of tennis at one of the hundreds of red-clay courts. |
| 04 |
Fútbol is a national obsession. Take in a game featuring Boca Juniors or River Plate - Argentina's most popular teams - if you can. |
| 05 |
Ice cream is as much a part of culinary life as steak and red wine. Grab a cone at a corner heladería. |
| 06 |
Order one coffee to get uninterrupted use of a café table for as long as you like. The downside is when you're ready to go, it can take 15 minutes to get the bill. |
| 07 |
Unlike in the rest of the Spanish speaking world, the letters "y" and "ll" are pronounced like the "su" in "measure". |
| 08 |
Don't do as the locals. The mullet and rat's tail were terrible hairstyles in the 1980s; they're even worse today. |
| 09 |
Do as the locals. Drink alcohol slowly and sparingly. It's how Argentines stay up until 03.00 and make it to work the next day. |
| 10 |
Say "chau" instead of "adios". |
02
Hotels
One independent and easy
Legado Mitico
1848 Gurrachaga
+ 54 11 4833 1300
legadomitico.com
Dependable chain
Sofitel Buenos Aires
841-849 Arroyo
+ 54 11 4131 0000
sofitel.com
Premium
Palacio Duhau - Park Hyatt Buenos Aires
1661 Avenida Alvear
+ 54 11 5171 1234
buenosaires.park.hyatt.com
03
Dining
Fast breakfast
Café Martínez
Locations throughout Buenos Aires
+54 11 4815 2233
cafemartinez.com
Business breakfast
Bar 6
1676 Armenia
+ 54 11 4833 6807
barseis.com
Mid-morning coffee
Las Violetas
3899 Avenida Rivadavia
+ 54 11 4958 7387
lasvioletas.com
Working lunch with colleagues
Brasserie Petanque
596 Defensa
+ 54 11 4342 7930
brasserie
petanque.com
Need-to-impress-clients lunch
Osaka
5608 Soler
+ 54 11 4775 6964
osaka.com.pe
Lunch on your own
Unapalabra
3031 Arevalo
+ 54 11 4772 7140
Afternoon tea/drink
High tea at the Alvear Palace Hotel
1891 Avenida Alvear
+ 54 11 4808 2100
alvearpalace.com
Dinner on your own
Bangalore (curry at the bar)
1416 Humboldt
+ 54 11 4779 2621
Dinner with colleagues
La Cabrera
5099 Cabrera
+ 54 11 4831 7002
Private dinner
Sottovoce
1098 Avenida del Libertador
+ 54 11 4807 6691
sottovoceristorante.com.ar
Big dinner with partner clients
La Bourgogne
Alvear Palace Hotel
2027 Ayacucho
+ 54 11 4805 3857
Drink after dinner
Ocho7Ocho (no sign on door)
878 Thames
+ 54 11 4773 1098
Late drinks
Library Lounge at the Faena Hotel
445 Martha Solatti
+ 54 11 4010 9000
faenahotelanduniverse.com
Late bite
Ice cream from Persicco
Salguero and Cabello Streets
+ 54 810 333 7377
persicco.com
On the tiles
Kim y Novak
Godoy Cruz y Güemes
+ 54 11 4773 7521
kimynovak.blogspot.com
04
Reading
Books and CDs
Librería El Ateneo
1860 Avenida Santa Fe
+ 54 11 4811 6104
05
Thank yous
Stationery
Papelera Palermo
4945 Honduras
+ 54 11 4833 3081
papelerapalermo.com
06
Shopping
Something you can't get anywhere else
Tango shoes at Comme Il Faut
1239 Arenales, Suite 3M
+ 54 11 4815 5690
commeilfaut.com.ar
Lost luggage - where to buy dress shirts, socks and undies
Galerías Pacífico
Florida and Córdoba Streets
+ 54 11 5555 5110
galerias
pacifico.com.ar
Something for someone you love
Fair trade bag at Pasión Argentina
1780 Emilio Ravignani
+ 54 11 4777 7550
pasion-argentina.com.ar
Something for the kids
Stuffed animals from Sopa de Principe
1719 Thames
+ 54 11 4831 8505
sopadeprincipe.com.ar
07
Two hour tour
| 01 |
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
3415 Avenida Figueroa Alcorta
+ 54 11 4808 6500
malba.org.ar |
02 |
Recoleta Cemetery
1790 Junin
+ 54 11 4804 7040 |
03 |
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA)
1473 Avenida Libertador
+ 54 11 4803 0802
mnba.org.ar |
08
Limousine/car
Limousine Rental
Remises Esperanza
2105 Billinghurst
+ 54 11 4829 1551
remises-esperanza.com
09
Transport
Public transport
Buy a Guia "T" street map (3-4 pesos) in a kiosk and a Subtepass multi-trip card for the metro (70 centavos a trip). The subway (subte.com.ar) is much simpler than the bus system and faster than a taxi for most journeys.
10
Fitness
Running route
Bosques de Palermo
Enter Parque 3 de febrero at Avenida del Libertador and Sarmiento.
Alternative diversion
Riding at Club Hípico Argentino
7285 Avenida Figueroa Alcorta
+ 54 11 4786 0262
clubhipicoargentino.org.ar