Land of plenty

With its four “fingers” stretching out into the Aegean, the Peloponnese is a defining part of Greece’s geography: its hand-like shape helps to make the country’s outline immediately recognisable on a map. Yet its shores have long been under-explored by those international visitors who, after landing in Athens, hop straight onto a ferry bound for one of the country’s islands. Perhaps unsurprisingly, this largely unspoilt area has instead served as the setting of many a Greek childhood summer – and, in recent years, it has been luring back nostalgic domestic entrepreneurs seeking to give it a well-deserved update.

The drive from Athens to Corinth, which sits on one side of the isthmus dividing the mainland from this sizeable peninsula, is only an hour long. But the scenery soon becomes more rural and the roads wilder. Most will know this territory as the home of Sparta, the much mythologised rival to Athens in antiquity. But the Peloponnese’s role in Greek history begins long before that, as the seat of the Mycenian civilisation during the last phase of the Bronze Age. Many cities that signify Greekness abroad can be found here, including Olympia, the birthplace of world’s most renowned sporting event, and Kalamata, known for its olives.

While many who head to the Cyclades relish the chance to avoid driving on holiday, the Peloponnese rewards an old-school roadtrip approach. You’ll have to get behind the wheel to reach some of the remote villages and thick pine forests, which later descend into semi-deserted coves.

The region is a combination of starkly different terrains. You can start your day in the mountainous wilderness of Arcadia and soon be scattering your towel on the pebbly shores of the Argolic Gulf. The Mani peninsula, the Peloponnese’s middle finger, is said to have the area’s most spectacularly crystalline waters. Though grand hotels clinging on to steep hills can make for dramatic accommodation options, this is a place of rustic guesthouses, where the sun filters through olive groves and afternoons are soundtracked by the hypnotic buzz of cicadas. Lunches at old-school tavernas are practically mandatory, though many ambitious chefs are rethinking the region’s traditional fare. Here is our pick of the essential stop-offs to explore. — L