Fashion: Briefing / Global
Wise counsel
Two heads are better than one, which might be why there are so many great collaborations to discover. We also look at plastic-free outerwear and a club for connoisseurs of fine timepieces.
Hollywood Ranch Market X Wildside
Japan
Influential designer Yohji Yamamoto has unveiled a collaboration between his sub-label Wildside and fellow Japanese brand Hollywood Ranch Market. The six-piece collection is inspired by French workwear – think stretchy, long-sleeve tops, drawstring trousers and sharp chore jackets with French-style rounded collars. Bags are also on offer, including a mini twill satchel and a larger tote. Follow Yamamoto’s styling cues and add a pair of black leather Oxfords for a polished, monochrome look.
wildside-online.com; hrm-eshop.com
APC X Anastasia Barbieri
France
Paris-based apc continues to surprise with its ongoing series of collaborations – or “interactions”, as the brand’s founder, Jean Touitou, prefers to call the capsule collections co-designed with the likes of Jonathan Anderson, Jane Birkin and Katie Holmes. Joining this roster is stylist and former Vogue Hommes fashion director Anastasia Barbieri. “apc is a brand that I’ve known since my youth,” says Barbieri. “I’ve always appreciated its timeless pieces [and] nonchalant spirit,” she adds, pointing to the new classics in her own capsule, from tuxedo jackets designed to be worn from day to evening to gabardine coats and double-denim looks. Also worth adding to your shopping list: a new edition of the brand’s organic olive oil with a raw denim apron to match.
apc.fr
JW Anderson
UK
Loafers have been on the rise for a few years now, slowly but surely replacing the trainer. Irish-born designer Jonathan Anderson – known for his humorous, often surreal approach – decided to take the trend a step further with his new line of Loafer bags, a series of elegant top-handle totes featuring a front panel resembling the penny slot on the shoe. It’s a low-key, practical design but the nod to the footwear brings a touch of the irreverence that’s synonymous with Anderson’s label. The larger size, ideally in brown suede or navy leather, also doubles as a weekender bag.
jwanderson.com
Vacheron Constantin
Switzerland & UK
Vacheron Constantin’s Club 1755, in London’s Mayfair, is only open to the Swiss company’s top customers. “Before collecting timepieces, our clients might collect cigars, cars or art,” says UK brand director Charlotte Tanneur Teissier. So watches aren’t the only design objects on display. “Timepieces are part of a broader conversation and the club offers a space to host that discussion.”
vacheron-constantin.com
Mover
Switzerland
Swiss-based Mover has been delivering plastic-free collections since 2021. Its latest innovation is the Vintage Shell+ running jacket. Crafted from a waterproof high-density deadstock cotton with a merino lining, it is warm and breathable. We recommend this eye-catching mandarin shade.
mover.eu
SR_A Engineered
Spain
Over the past year, Inditex-owned Zara has unveiled an evolving collaboration series with the likes of former Saint Laurent artistic director Stefano Pilati, musician Charlotte Gainsbourg and Budapest-based label Nanushka.
The A Coruña business is now aiming even higher by launching a new label with Samuel Ross, the architect turned fashion designer known for streetwear label A-Cold-Wall and partnerships with watchmaker Hublot. Named sr_a Engineered, this joint venture is a “multidisciplinary studio” rather than a traditional fashion label, spanning clothing as well as furniture, art and industrial design.
Ross’s first project, a menswear capsule focused on performance wear, made its debut during Paris Fashion Week this January and included voluminous parkas, kimono-inspired coats and slides featuring Japanese shiso stitching. “These are clothes for navigating cultural spaces and spaces of work and play,” says Ross.
sr-a.com
Kestin
UK
“They say that if you’re brought up in Scotland, you’re either a golfer or a fly fisher,” says Kestin Hare at the Edinburgh shop of his menswear label Kestin. And life outdoors informs his Scottish-made knits and workwear-inspired garments, crafted using a mix of technical and natural fabrics, and produced at the brand’s studio in Annan.
Hare inherited this obsession with quality fabrics from his mother, an interior designer; while the technical wear he wore while fly fishing with his father fuelled a love for high-performance garments.
The ambitious designer is working with fabric makers in Japan, while eyeing new markets. “Our biggest growth area is in the US, where many people feel a true affinity to Scotland,” he says. “You can design the best product in the world but if it doesn’t have a story, it won’t work. We’re always developing new techniques in the studio to keep us all ready to venture outside.”
kestin.co
