Sunday 4 August 2024 - Monocle Minute | Monocle

Sunday. 4/8/2024

Monocle Weekend
Edition: Sunday

Heat of the moment

As the mercury continues to rise, we cool off at a gelateria in South Tyrol, where a former fashion designer is inventing imaginative new ice-cream flavours, and savour a summer salad with a Tunisian gallerist. Plus: we bed down in a beachside bolthole in Byron Bay, mix up a refreshing melon drink and catch up with a Provençal winemaker about why the region’s viticulture boasts far more than just a refreshing rosé. Kicking things off is Tyler Brûlé, with tales from his travels in the mountains.

The Faster Lane / Tyler Brûlé

Sunny disposition

Is it safe to say that we’re at the midpoint for summer in the northern hemisphere? Or am I being a little over-optimistic? Many Finns and Swedes are already back at work, Swiss schools are soon returning to class and autumn collections are already on shop rails (more on this in a moment). Then again, many French are only now settling into their Lafuma loungers on Cap Ferret, hotel rates at favourite Med hotels are still showing super high rates through to the start of October and, at Monocle, the coming weeks mark the holiday high point, with our outposts at their most empty. Perhaps if we recalibrate the season and accept that it’s going to be wonderfully warm until mid-October, then we’ve still got a solid two and a half months of lake dips, rosé and Heschung sandals. Regardless of where we are, let’s take stock of a few things.

1
Off the back of last week’s Paris trip I was supposed to head straight to Stockholm, spend a day there, drive to Marstrand and wrap up in Copenhagen. Instead I grabbed a deserted TGV Lyria back to Zürich, spent Monday in the office and then grabbed the train up to St Moritz for a bit of mountain time. It has been heavenly. I have been coming up here for a good 20 years and never witnessed a summer season quite so busy. Is it all good marketing or are we seeing a serious shift away from the Mediterranean in favour of a bit of Sommerfrische? It’s a topic that we’ll be tackling on 17 and 18 August, when Monocle Radio broadcasts from the St Moritz Makers and Shakers festival. Should your summer grand tour take you near the Engadine, then stop by for a drink and a chat with the crew.

2
There has been a certain Olympic metabolism in our household this week. Morning swim, mid-morning hike, end of day swim, 90 minutes of Olympic viewing on France 2 and then a couple of marathon sessions of Presumed Innocent on Apple TV+. Back over on France 2, couldn’t the BBC or CNN find a character as charming and healthily tanned as Laurent Delahousse, the frontman for the 20.00 bulletin?

3
Meanwhile, back at Monocle Radio’s base at Maison Allianz in Paris, Emma Nelson and at least one – perhaps two – Monocle producers are hoping to have French diver Jules Bouyer in studio to discuss how to achieve the perfect dive, as well as essential sartorial matters, including how to care for skimpily cut Lycra.

4
And speaking of garments, could we soon be heading for a proper fashion reset when the new season hits the rails? While this has been an ongoing discussion for some time, the late arrival of summer in many parts of this hemisphere has meant that many have not been interested in buying summer wardrobe top-ups well into June, if not July, while autumn items are already about to be shipped. French brand Soeur seems to have the right idea with its debut men’s collection, which won’t be in shops until October 10. This seems just about the time that we will have had enough of seersucker and want to consider things woolly and tweedy instead.

5
I have been thinking that it’s time to launch a global-award programme for superior service. Anyone care to partner with us on sponsoring this venture? While it’s important to recognise athletes, actors and various performing artists, what about an international awards show for the people on the everyday frontlines for brands big and small? Consumers spend more time talking about service – outstanding, poor and all points in between – than they do the person making millions as the over-engineered, heavily scripted brand ambassador. On my Tuesday train ride up the mountains, the conductor on Rhätische Bahn between Chur and St Moritz was so good at his job that he surely would have made the shortlist for best performance on platform and on board in a challenging environment. A bewildered looking woman on the platform was shown to the correct carriage and her enormous suitcase was carried onto the train. A disoriented bunch of Belgians were told not to pass through the dining car with their bags but to exit, walk down to carriages along the platform and then board. Tickets were inspected with efficiency, a polite nod and just the right amount of sunny chatter. Perfection.

Eating out / Mano Eismanufaktur, Schenna

Breaking the ice

Gelato-maker Hannah Schrott opened her first ice-cream shop, Mano Eismanufaktur, in the charming South Tyrolean village of Schenna this year – not far from The Monocle Shop in Merano (writes Fernando Augusto Pacheco). Before launching the business, Schrott worked in the fashion industry in Berlin. It was on a trip to Costa Rica that she stumbled across a delicious gelateria, which inspired her to become an ice-cream maker.

Image: Hannes Niederkofler
Image: Hannes Niederkofler

After completing a year-long gelato-making course in Tuscany, Schrott decided to return to her native region to open her own shop. Mano Eismanufaktur offers 16 flavours of gelato and sources most of its ingredients from producers in South Tyrol. The biggest crowd pleasers are salted pistachio, pomegranate with orange and ginger, and blueberry with rosemary. With gelato this good, a summer in Schenna is certainly on the cards.
Via Scena 5a, Scena

Image: Pol Guillard

Sunday Roast / Yosr Ben Amar

Roots of the matter

Tunisian artist Yosr Ben Ammar launched her namesake gallery in 2022 in Bhar Lazreg, a former industrial area-turned-arts district in the seaside city of La Marsa (writes Gabrielle Grangié). Here, she chats to us about her summer in Sicily, favourite Libyan-inspired fashion brand and her Sunday playlist.

Where will we find you this weekend?
You’ll find me on Kheireddine beach in La Goulette, Tunisia. It’s right in front of my childhood home.

Your ideal start to a Sunday? Gentle or a jolt?
I meditate and practice yoga for about 20 minutes. Then I tend to the garden.

What’s for breakfast?
Water with lemon and ginger. On Sundays, it’s pastries and eggs.

Lunch in or out?
The Cliff in La Marsa does a great seafood salad. On work days, it’s always Konbini, the Japanese-Tunisian cafeteria in my building.

Walk the dog or downward dog?
We have a little maltese dog that loves to play in the garden. He often joins me at the gallery.

A Sunday soundtrack?
Chill music or Afro-house.

Sunday culture must?
The gallery is closed on Sunday, so it’s the only culture-free day.

News or no news?
I find the news really depressing, so I try to distance myself from it.

Where will you spend your summer holidays this year?
My husband is Italian, so we like to go to Italy. This year we’re going to Sicily and the Aeolian islands, which are just a short hop across the Mediterranean from Tunis.

What’s on the menu?
Salad, a really good pasta dish and some fresh fish.

Will you lay out an outfit for Monday?
Always something sporty-chic. I like the brand Born in Exile, which is based in the same building as my gallery and inspired by Libyan culture. There’s also Parisian maison Alaïa; its founder grew up in Tunisia.

Illustration: Xiha

Recipe / Ralph Schelling

Melon shrub

The summer-drinks series in the ‘Monocle Mediterraneo Newspaper’ proposes a colourful selection of tipples to keep your thirst thoroughly quenched in the heat. This week’s offering is made from melons and uses apple-cider vinegar to tone down the sweetness of the fruit. “I prefer the melon shrub drink over melon itself,” says Monocle’s Swiss chef, Ralph Schelling.

Serves 4

Ingredients
500g melon, chopped
100g cane sugar
200ml apple cider vinegar
600ml mineral water
2 handfuls of ice cubes

Method

1
Add the melon to a bowl with the sugar and vinegar. Cover and leave to infuse overnight at room temperature.

2
Blend the melon mix and pass it through a fine sieve. Chill the purée until it is ready to use.

3
Divide the purée into glasses and top it up with the mineral water and the ice.

For more summer concoctions, pick up a copy of the‘Monocle Mediterraneo Newspaper’, which is out now.

Image: Tony Hay

Bottoms up / Rosa 32

Winds of change

Rosa 32’s name might reference Provence’s coveted rosé but founder Florestan de Rouvray wants to show that the region has more to offer than the pink stuff (writes Claudia Jacob). “Provence produces crisp white and fragrant red wines, so I wanted the brand to reflect this,” says De Rouvray. Rosa 32’s cuvées are produced on the Massif des Maures, a mountain range 12km west of Saint-Tropez.

The second half of the winery’s name is a reference to the 32 names for wind that sweep across the vineyard. The region has mineral-rich soil as a result of tectonic activity, which allows grapes to maintain a balanced level of sugar, acidity and salinity. The best way to sample Rosa 32’s tipples? “Have a glass when you haven’t eaten for a few hours,” says De Rouvray. “You’ll find that your palate is more sensitive to the flavours of the terroir.”
rosa32.com

For our full conversation with Florestan de Rouvray, pick up the‘Monocle Mediterraneo Newspaper’, which is available now.

Weekend plans? / Basq House, Byron Bay

Home from home

Southeastern Australia’s coastal idyll of Byron Bay has a new addition to its hospitality scene: Basq House, a 32-key boutique hotel that opened in June (writes Naomi Xu Elegant). Basq House’s Moroccan-inspired design – abundant greenery and guest rooms are arranged around a heated pool in the courtyard – offers respite from the hustle and bustle of nearby streets.

Image: Elise Hasse
Image: Elise Hasse
Image: Elise Hasse

The property is a five-minute walk from the beach and a short trek inland from waterfalls and forested trails. Each room’s light-filled interiors are accentuated by warm tiling, sleek wood furniture, paintings by regional artists and a minibar stocked with Australian wines. The hotel also includes a library with an open fireplace, a living room and a lounge with snacks, cocktails and board games, all of which encourage guests to mingle. The rooftop doubles as a space for yoga and meditation. “We wanted the property to feel as though it was a luxury home, where rooms are for sleeping and common areas are for socialising,” says co-founder Matt Walsh. “As we like to say, arrive as guests and leave as friends.”
basqhouse.com.au

Image: Tony Hay

Pack this / Rimowa packing cubes

Out of the box

Living out of a suitcase can be a simple and stress-free affair if you have the right gear. Made with water-repellent materials, German luggage brand Rimowa’s packing cubes are ideal for this summer’s sunny sojourns. They allow clothes to remain folded and protect devices from any unwanted sun-cream explosions.

What’s more, the cubes can be easily stored inside each other when not in use. Smart solutions are part of Rimowa’s DNA, which has been pioneering efficient and elegant travel since 1898.
rimowa.com

For more on Monocle’s recommended roadtrips and sunny stopovers, pick up a copy of our bumperJuly/August issue, which is on newsstands now. Orsubscribeso that you never miss an issue. Have a super Sunday.

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