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Travel

Beirut

This is a city that means so much more than the sum of its wobbly parts. It’s a Mediterranean destination driven by adrenaline and optimism – and it fulfils its status as capital with an urban panache that’s unmistakably…

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Article

Summer of the siege

17 August 2008

Two years after the war with Israel, another battle was raging in Lebanon among its own people. But as the bullets flew, there was still time for mojitos – the Lebanese are used to surviving crises. Our correspondent…

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Article

Hip Hops

16 September 2010

Mazen Hajjar launched his first beer under gunfire, entered a Lebanese market dominated by one player and had a unique approach to management. And now? He’s head of a thriving beer company with ambitions to conquer the…

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Article

Making the cut

23 March 2017

Lebanon has produced some of the world’s best couturiers but a new generation of creatives are now creating an edgier fashion scene.

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Article

Rock solid

16 November 2017

For Lebanese rockers Mashrou’ Leila, a trusted crew is vital to make sure their music is heard over the controversy.

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Article

Swim city

17 August 2008

Despite the rather unsettled summer in Lebanon, it was business as usual at the iconic 1960s Sporting Club – or simply ‘Sporting’ if you’re a Gemayzeh resident.

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Article

Happy place

20 June 2019

Womenswear designer Rabih Kayrouz gives us a tour of his serene new boutique, housed in a fantastical 19th-century mansion.

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Article

Expo 35: Beirut

17 June 2010

International architecture firms and boutique hotel chains are the latest to catch on that Beirut is the friendliest, most vibrant and ever-changing city in the Middle East. We also profile four more metropolises whose…

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Article

After the explosion

17 September 2020

Our Beirut correspondent relives August’s fateful port blast and its harrowing aftermath – and hails the fellowship of the Lebanese.

E 2019

Article

No sleep ’til sunrise

13 December 2018

Tumbledown infrastructure and high living costs make Lebanon a tough place to live but few cities are as adept at casting worries aside and celebrating life at the end of the week. Dancing shoes at the ready.

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Article

Kings of the hill

17 April 2008

Beirut’s Christian quarter of Ashrafieh has weathered civil war, terrorist assassinations and the recent Hezbollah-Israeli conflict. But today, the hill-top neighbourhood is once again under threat, this time from devel…

D 2017

Article

Piece together

8 December 2016

Amid the crises that Lebanon has faced over the past few years, new design galleries and studios have emerged across the capital and secured its status as a chief design centre in the Middle East.

C 2015

Article

Reportage 2. Sun through the clouds

10 July 2015

Venetia Rainey reporting from Beirut and Batroun: Throughout Lebanon’s 15-year civil war and amid the current political strife, Beirutis have held fiercely to the legacy of 1960s glamour that the ‘Paris of the East’ was…

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Article

After the blast

25 March 2021

Last summer an explosion rocked Beirut. This month we asked our correspondent, who reported for us in the days following the blast, to return to those streets to meet the people rebuilding the Lebansese capital.

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Film

The Bookseller of Beirut

18 June 2008

As anywhere, Lebanon's independent bookstores have slowly been eaten up by big, bland chains. Set in the once thriving district of Hamra, Esquire stands out as a slightly dusty, but proud, pillar of independence. Today its…

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