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Design / Fashion

Milan Menswear 2016

From formal tailoring to casual sartorial cuts, chic sportswear to laid-back leather shoes, the neverending runways and presentations of Milan have plenty to offer for the autumn/winter 2016 menswear season. Here are our favourites from the week.

01 Ralph Lauren – coat

The big step Ralph Lauren has taken this season is into sportswear-inspired garments that pay attention to lightweight technical materials. This black-and-charcoal textured coat – paired with a dark cashmere rollneck sweater – is both cosy and impeccably tailored.

02 Rossignol – jumper

There’s a combination of high-altitude glamour and the 1970s in Rossignol’s new collection. The skiwear giant is branching out into its first fashion line with a collection of casual clothing that suits the slopes as well as the city. This high-performance jumper belies the French heritage of this 108-year-old brand.

03 Tod's – vest

Made with exquisitely soft leather, this down-filled jacket is the highlight of Tod’s new men’s ready-to-wear collection – and one that shows its technical mastery. Light and smooth to the touch, the leather is brushed before undergoing a wax treatment that results in its vintage look.

04 Church’s – shoes

With the addition of a sturdy sole, Church’s Padfield trainer casually transforms the classic Shannon style. The brushed calfskin top will also be available in a burgundy hue.

05 Kiton – coat

Kiton’s autumn/winter 2016 collection expertly covers everything from sartorial cuts to casual denim and sportwear. But our top pick comes from its Culto thermal-wear collection: despite the fact that the emphasis is on the practical, this coat is effortlessly elegant.

06 Bally – galoshes

We welcome the return of an old-school accessory to Bally’s 1960s-inspired collection: galoshes. The detachable accessories make for a lively detail as part of the brand’s Scribe model.

07 Brunello Cucinelli – coat

Brunello Cucinelli certainly knows what he’s doing: the Italian designer’s label recorded a 16.3 per cent revenue increase in 2015. His autumn/winter 2016 collection plays with casualness: here he uses cashmere, a material usually associated with inner garments, to give a coat a relaxed feel. Wide-cut woolen trousers are also staples of a collection that Cucinelli says is targeted at both fathers and sons.

08 Valextra – small leather goods

Valextra’s brand-new Via Manzoni flagship boutique – transformed by Belgian architect Bernard Dubois – played host to The Perfectionist collection. Of course, it’s all about tidiness and order: business-card holders, manicure kits and wallets are inspired by travel and based on models from the brand’s own archives.

09 Ermenegildo Zegna – knitted vest

Embroidered jumpers and jacquard jackets were all the rage at Ermenegildo Zegna’s couture show. This navy-and-plum zig-zag knitted vest will make for an effective pop of colour when worn under a formal suit.

10 Caruso – cape

Camel hair has long been a staple of gentlemen’s coats but this suit represents a historic occasion: it’s the first made entirely from said material. The pinstriped number – a collaborative effort with Loro Piana – was crafted from Gobigold, a super-fine hair taken from Gobi desert camels. It is just as fine as cashmere but more durable and cheaper.

Correspondent
Chiara Rimella
Photographer
Luigi Fiano

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