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Design / Fashion

Pitti Uomo 2016

As Pitti’s halls fill with both buyers and spectators, we scour the stands to bring back our fair favourites for autumn/winter 2016. Blazers, boots and bags all make the cut – together with some smart tailoring.

01 Solovière, shoes

Following its signature mix of cutting-edge unisex design and traditional savoir-faire, this French shoe brand has produced a limited-edition collection of classic “Made in Italy” footwear for men; also available in women’s sizes.

02 Barena, coat

Venetian brand Barena’s collections take high-quality natural fabrics and give them an innovative twist. This navy boiled-wool parka will keep the breeze at bay whether you’re floating on the lagoon or hiking up a mountain.

03 Camo, hat

Inspired by fast-paced travelling, Stefano Ughetti’s latest collection includes this cosy rabbit-fur felt hat. Its leather band can be unbuttoned so that it can be rolled up for perfect packing, with no fear of it getting squashed in a suitcase.

04 Finlay & Co, sunglasses

Finlay & Co – set up by four friends in 2012 – presents sunglasses that are designed in London and crafted in northern Italy’s Prosecco region from the finest Mazzucchelli acetate. This is the brand’s fourth time at Pitti; it has become a fixture in the Eye Pop section, which was added in 2014 to shine a spotlight on glasses-makers.

05 Frank Clegg, bags

Pitti celebrates time-honoured artisans as well as up-and-coming talents. Frank Clegg sits firmly in the former camp: the leather-maker has been handcrafting all manner of bags and accessories in his Massachusetts studio since 1970. His goods are made from French hides that have been vegetable-tanned, the same process that is used for saddle-making.

06 Norlha, scarves

Woven by Tibetan nomads in an atelier on the 3,200-metre-high Tibetan plains, Norlha’s textiles are made from soft yak wool – a Himalayan yarn renowned for its warmth. As well as helping 120 craftsmen to preserve their time-honoured skills, the company’s production of scarves and throws is environmentally sustainable.

07 Lodental, coat

Andrea Provvidenza loved the loden coat of his childhood so much that he decided to update it. His colourful coats are now manufactured in Naples with fabric sourced from Austria.

08 Massimo Alba, jumper

Massimo Alba founded his label in 2006 and has since maintained a fierce dedication to crafting “Made in Italy” products. This jacquard sweater is woven from wool in the north of the country and for autumn/winter 2016 sits alongside clothing including a line of jackets made using velvet originally destined for furniture.

09 Oak Street Bootmakers, boots

Founded by the son of a cobbler in 2010, Chicago-based Oak Street Bootmakers is one of the newer names leading the US boot revival. The cult bootmaker’s stall sits within Pitti’s Born In The USA pavilion, a celebration of proud US artisans. Its autumn/winter 2016 pieces are made from French calf leather.

10 SWCH, coats

At the heart of SWCH’s design process is a search for innovative, exclusive fabrics to constantly improve the performance and warmth of its clothes. This year, however, SWCH is also betting on colour. These Khuru and Iamma coats are available in tamer navy versions but this fiery red hue is the one that caught our eye.

Correspondent
Chiara Rimella
Photographer
Agnese Morganti

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