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Design / Retail

Pitti Uomo 91: day one

A freezing Florence has welcomed the 91st edition of eminent menswear tradeshow Pitti Uomo; fortunately there is plenty to warm the cockles inside the Fortezza da Basso halls. Here are our picks from the first day of the fair.

Z Zegna

For his very first collection as the new creative director of Zegna, Alessandro Sartori was inspired by the skiing heritage that informs this Italian house. From Techmerino Jersey to Techmerino Silk, fabrics in the line are chosen with an eye to performance: this jacket is made from sumptuous sheepskin.

zegna.it

Sørensen

When Wayne Sørensen founded his menswear label last year he moved from London to Porto to be closer to the factories that bring his elegant designs to life. The latest collection from the former Orlebar Brown design director is studded with easy, wearable pieces: workwear jackets, sweatshirts accented with colourful stitching and these stonewashed linen trousers.

studiosorensen.com

Maison Marcy

From his Brussels studio, Marcy Szwarcburt dreams up playful men’s and women’s pyjamas. His stripy, tailored PJs woven from super-soft Italian cotton are a dream but we were particularly taken with this tartan jacket: it is inspired by a pyjama top but is designed to be worn out and about.

maisonmarcy.com

Choya

Founded in 1886, Choya is one of the oldest shirt-makers in Japan. New creative director Yindigo A Mochizuki has thought up a capsule collection of all-white shirts designed to adapt to the wearer's body, now available for the first time in Europe. Models have been created to fit three imagined but delightfully specific personas: an architectural photographer, a florist and a chef.

choyashirt.com

Jupe by Jackie

Seven years ago, Dutch designer Jackie Villevoye launched a collection of T-shirts and shirts; her line has now expanded to include chunkier pieces such as knits and jackets. They retain her signature embroidery designs, all stitched by hand by craftsmen in Uttar Pradesh, India. A hint of the collection’s military inspiration can be found on this jacket’s collar, though the cut and structure have something of the classic Tyrolean loden.

jupe-by-jackie.com

Correspondents
Chiara Rimella, Daphné Hézard, Jamie Waters
Photographer
Filippo Bamghergi

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