Diplomacy on a plate: Peru’s Washington embassy is also the city’s best Andean culinary spot

Alfredo Ferrero has no problem attracting high-profile guests to functions at the Peruvian embassy in Washington. “They know that they will have good food here,” the ambassador says with a booming laugh, surveying the dishes before him. The five-course feast was prepared by Peruvian chef Michael Ciuffardi, who caters for the embassy’s events. Last July, Ciuffardi won the Embassy Chef Challenge, a contest in which cooks from 34 Washington embassies compete to serve the best diplomatic dish. It was yet another feather in Peruvian cuisine’s cap.

It’s a special year for this embassy, as Peru celebrates 200 years of diplomatic ties with the US. This means plenty of opportunities for Ciuffardi to impress at events on Washington’s “embassy row”. This building was designed in the Italian classicist style in the early 20th century. An on-site art gallery provides an inviting space for showcasing Ciuffardi’s canapés at openings and events. For the most prestigious functions, however, guests head out to Ferrero’s residence in the city’s northwest, a three-storey colonial-revival-style property built in 1928.

As he adds the finishing touches to his ceviche, Ciuffardi – who is also the head chef of Virginia’s Inca Social restaurants – tells Monocle that every plate of Peruvian cuisine tells a different story, reflecting his country’s diverse history and geography. “We have grown because we have respected our ingredients but also absorbed techniques from other countries,” he says. Then there’s the diversity of produce from Peru’s three climate zones, ranging from octopus and mahi-mahi from its coastline to the chillies and grains found on its Andean peaks. When catering for embassy events, the objective is “to represent the coast, the Andes and the Amazon in every dish”, says Ciuffardi.

For ambassador Ferrero, this bounty translates into an abundance of diplomatic opportunities. “It’s a way to sell Peru,” says the gregarious diplomat. “We believe that through gastronomy, we can improve tourism and exports. And it’s also important for diplomacy.” Improved relations with Washington show that the proof is in the ceviche.

In Monocle’s April issue, we profile our selection of the best foreign embassies in the world — this is just one of the establishments featured. See the rest of our favourites here.