In Brazil’s agricultural boom towns, ‘sertanejo’ now trumps bossa nova
Think of Brazil and Rio de Janeiro will likely spring to mind: the golden-sand beaches, the mountainous backdrop, the gentle yearning of bossa nova or samba’s lively percussion echoing in the distance. It’s a familiar image and one that the country’s tourism authorities have long promoted. But it’s also increasingly out of touch, especially in light of the cultural, economic and geographical transformation that has taken place in Latin America’s largest nation over the past two decades.
Once the country’s capital, Rio is now mostly a tourist attraction. Today the real engines of the Brazilian economy are the agricultural powerhouses in western states such as Mato Grosso, Mato Grosso do Sul and Goiás. For centuries, this vast swath of Brazil – an area roughly the size of Western Europe – was considered inhospitable and unsuitable for agriculture as a result of its extreme temperatures and dry, baked soil. But scientific developments in crop production and soil management have tamed the land and the region is now a leading producer of some of the world’s most important foodstuffs, including beef and soybeans. The agricultural boom has minted a new generation of millionaires and billionaires, while states such as Mato Grosso now have some of the highest GDPs per capita in the country. Out west, progress and development are the buzzwords of the day.
The economic changes have led to a cultural shift. Migrants have flocked to these new boom towns, fuelling the rise of a new conservative culture. In religion, that has meant the spread of evangelicalism. In terms of politics, conservative figures such as former president Jair Bolsonaro have enjoyed a rise in support. And in the popular imagination, it has meant cowboy culture and, above all, sertanejo – Brazil’s version of country music that is typically performed by double acts, or duplas, wearing hats and boots. While the traditional ballads were about the joys and hardships of rural life, the modern iteration tends to focus on love affairs and heartbreak. Today sertanejo is Brazil’s most popular musical genre; according to a recent survey by polling company Quaest, some 26 per cent of the population listened to it. Gospel music, often linked to Brazil’s conservative rebirth and the spread of evangelical churches, is the second most popular genre at 19 per cent. Samba places fourth and its offspring, bossa nova – that stereotypical sound of Rio de Janeiro – does not make the list at all.
Harris is a Monocle contributor based in São Paulo. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.
