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Baltic beauty

Finland’s capital boasts magnificent architecture, quirky drinking venues and dashing design.

Writer
Photographers

The Finnish capital is a cheery city year round: in the winter residents stoke up their saunas and head out to bars to stave off the chill; in the summer the harbour is dotted with sailing boats and alfresco dinners enliven pavements late into the night.

Restaurateur Antto Melasniemi’s new neighbourhood bistro and wine bar Pontus serves fresh fish and fine Italian dishes, while a cornucopia of cafés, including the classic 19th-century coffee house Ekberg and Levain’s new outpost in Töölö, sate the hunger for sweet treats. Wine may still be expensive but reasonably priced craft beers abound.

Helsinki is also nurturing its culture scene with new developments such as the contemporary-art museum Amos Rex. Meanwhile Finnish architecture needs little introduction but even here there are some overlooked gems, such as Alvar Aalto’s National Pensions Institute.

Shopping-wise, we recommend stopping in at design studio Poiat, which recently launched a minimal version of the traditional Finnish fold-up chair. And you can’t leave without a sauna session or two; head to Lonna island for a refreshing post-sauna dip in the Baltic. That’s how it’s done in Finland.


Hands holding a halved sourdough loaf from Levain bakery in Helsinki.

1.
Loafing around
Levain
A handsome bakery, rightly renowned for its sourdough bread.


Server at Ekberg café holding a tray with coffee and pastries in Helsinki.

2.
All smiles
Ekberg
A café older than the Finnish state itself.


Hotel St George facade in Helsinki with classical architecture and storefront entrance.

3.
Urban retreat
Hotel St George
This beautifully designed hotel has a Monocle pop-up shop.


Interior of Poiat design studio showing minimalist furniture including a curved gray sofa and wooden coffee table.

4.
At your leisure
Poiat
Beautiful furniture verging on art.


Interior of Tislaamo distillery and bar with blue-paneled counter and wooden chairs

5.
Night on the tiles
Tislaamo
A polished distillery and bar in a gritty neighbourhood.


Amos Rex museum exterior with white tower and patterned ground on sunny day in Helsinki.

6.
Blue-sky thinking
Amos Rex
The newest museum in Helsinki’s enviable cultural roster.


Exterior view of the National Pensions Institute building designed by Alvar Aalto, showing distinctive angular brick architecture against a clear blue sky.

7.
Sharp angles
National Pensions Institute
One of Alvar Aalto’s lesser-known but better buildings.


Interior of Finarte design store displaying Finnish rugs, textiles, and home décor items.

8.
Got it covered
Finarte
Finnish rugs with a contemporary twist.


Whole roasted fish with vegetables and lemon in a black pan at Pontus restaurant in Helsinki.

9.
Juicy number
Pontus
Unfussy neighbourhood restaurant with a good wine list.


Modern sauna building with black roof and wooden exterior on Lonna island, Helsinki, with lake and trees in background.

10.
Hot stuff
Lonna island sauna
Modern sauna on a picturesque island.


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