Stride of place: Four Tokyo shoe brands to add to your wardrobe
When it comes to high-quality footwear, the Japanese capital is striding ahead of competition. From made-to-order mules to inventive tatami-soled loafers, here are shoes worth stepping into.
Western-style shoemaking in Tokyo began in the late-1800s, when the government of Meiji Japan established a military-boot plant in the city’s Asakusa district. To support the operation, the area soon became host to leather suppliers, tanneries, toolmakers and specialised outworkers, transforming into a hub for Japanese cobblers.
However, as workshops began shifting their production to places further afield, the “Made in Tokyo” label has become increasingly difficult to come by. Today, only a handful of shoe ateliers continue to manufacture in the city. Nonetheless, a small community of leather shoemakers remain in the city, crafting designs that reflect the unwavering attention to detail that defines Japan-made quality. Here are four of Monocle’s favourites in Tokyo.
1.
Rendo
Asakusa
Doubling as a workshop and boutique, visitors to Rendo – a shoe brand based in Tokyo’s Asakusa – are met with the scent of leather upon entering. Inside, boxes of shoes line the walls while a couple of large tables serve as workbenches and displays for finished products.
Rendo was founded by Teppei Yoshimi, who studied at London’s Cordwainers Technical College and worked as a pattern-maker for several shoe labels. Yoshimi began repairing leather footwear before branching into shoemaking, with a focus on Oxfords, loafers and monk straps. His background in pattern-making is central to his designs, which pairs classic British silhouettes with Japanese technical precision.
Yoshimi believes that building a relationship with his client base is just as important as making the shoes themselves: “Many of our customers have been coming here for years,” he says. “Some come in for repairs, others for a new pair of shoes.” As buyers began looking for more comfortable shoes in the wake of the coronavirus pandemic, Yoshimi launched the Tep_P collection. The casual line includes the Tyrolean leather shoe – a Monocle favourite that has also found an enthusiastic following among Rendo’s international visitors. “I wanted to develop a more relaxed option: something for casual outings that maintain an elegance,” says Yoshimi.
rendo-shoes.jp
2.
Fysky
Kichijoji
After studying shoemaking in Asakusa and working for several cordwainers in the area, Yosuke Ide launched Fysky in 2022 with his longtime friend and business partner Tetsu Ishiguro.
The intimate atelier in western Tokyo features a range of made-to-order men’s and women’s styles that can be customised from a wide variety of options, including different leathers, toe-cap styles, sole materials and other details. “Every customer works directly with us to create something personal, making the process itself part of the product,” says Ishiguro. The brand also offers custom leather accessories, such as wallets, belts and bags.
Advance reservation is required for visits and the turnaround for a pair of shoes is typically three to four months. Looking for a quick addition to the wardrobe? Worry not – the duo is planning to launch a ready-to-wear line as well as a bricks-and-mortar shop in Kichijoji next year.
fysky-shoe.com
3.
Liberato
Azumabashi
In traditional Japanese rooms, tatami (mats made of woven rush grass) are used on the floor to provide insulation and cushioning. Though its use is waning as Western-style flooring has become more popular, it is still used in many homes today. Liberato founder, Hideyuki Nagasawa, wanted to bring the benefits of tatami – comfort and breathability – to leather footwear.
Liberato’s collection features loafers, slide sandals and mules with tatami insoles. “They are meant to be worn barefoot,” says Nagasawa. The result is a gently textured liner that is naturally breathable.
Nagasawa sources the igusa (tatami rush) used in its tatami insoles from Kyushu, a region known for producing top-quality rush grass. The shoes are largely made in Asakusa and available at the Liberato showroom in neighbouring Azumabashi.
liberato.jp
4.
Hender Scheme
Various locations
Kashiwazaki’s in-house creations are inventive and use a wide range of techniques. Footwear is made from leather that is folded and stitched into shape with minimal intervention. Chunky rubber soles are used in many styles, with revealed seams, cut-outs and colourful cords appearing as playful details. His collection offers something for every occasion, from elegant city sandals to sturdy winter boots.
With six locations across Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka and Nagoya, Hender Scheme also sells its wares online. Regularly partnering with global names, its most recent collaboration was with Italian solemaker Vibram on the original UFO (Unidentified Footwear Object) sole unit, and leather-wrapped furniture and home accessories with Finnish design giant Artek.
henderscheme.com
