Three exceptionally stylish people on the art of dressing well

No matter who you are or where you live, you share a daily habit with the majority of the world. This morning, you, your neighbour, your children’s teacher and your tailor got dressed. For many, the routine is banal: combining various items that amount to a socially presentable outfit. But for some, the practice is an act of self expression and an opportunity to play with texture, colour and silhouette.

The difference between being well-dressed and well, dressed, often hinges on the garments’ fit, but it can also be distinguished by sartorial choices that reflect your personality. A relaxed mood might warrant fabrics that drape, while an alert attitude could draw one to dark colours and angled tailoring. In short, the key to dressing well is to maintain flexibility and to know that the rules are made to be broken.

Monocle asked three particularly fashionable people for their styling advice. The overwhelming consensus is to avoid pre-ripped jeans at all costs, to ignore trends and logos, and remember that life is long, so invest in clothes that will stick around. Here are their tips for creating a quality wardrobe.

Atsushi Hasegawa

The head of creative at luxury hotel The Newt in Somerset, Atsushi Hasegawa can be spotted wandering around its verdant grounds in a straw boater, longline linen shirt or even a kimono-inspired work jacket that he designed for UK gardening brand Niwaki. Hasegawa was born in Japan and became fascinated with fashion in the late 1980s, when he worked at Vivienne Westwood’s Tokyo shop. A passion for fly fishing brought him to Paris, where he worked at Maison de la Mouche, a shop that caters to the outdoors hobby. After about 10 years in the city, where he also worked in textile design, Hasegawa crossed the Channel to become the head of creative concept at footwear brand Clarks. Today he oversees The Newt’s visual identity, marketing activities and cultural partnerships.

Hasegawa’s tips for dressing well

Know thyself 
“Clothes protect you so I’m serious about what I wear. As I get older, I know that what matters is what suits your body, your height, your posture. I’m quite obsessed with understanding what kind of hats suit me.”

Keep pieces around
“I collect clothes and never throw anything away. I still have clothes that I bought when I was 18 because I don’t want to be a part of throwaway culture.”

Dress the way you feel
“When life gets stressful, I become almost punk and more expressive. When I’m more relaxed, it’s reflected in my laidback clothing.”

Improvise
“I’m a DJ and only mix with seven-inch vinyls with the aim of seamlessly connecting everything without planning. I like to do the same with getting dressed, almost in a half-stressed state and with only 20 minutes to get ready. I start with one item and then co-ordinate from there.”

Maria Lemos

Maria Lemos certainly knows how to dress the part. The Greek-born entrepreneur has been running Mouki Mou, one of the most elegant retail addresses on London’s Chiltern Street, for more than a decade. Her knowledge of craft, textiles and the best makers to watch is practically endless. A sharp point of view and an appreciation for quality inform everything that Lemos does. Whether she is dressing herself, selecting new labels to stock in her boutiques or choosing a location for her next project, she’s not one to follow trends or veer away from her own aesthetic.

Lemos’ advice for a considered wardrobe

Build a wardrobe over time
“I was recently wearing a wool Lemaire dress that I picked up at the end of the season because no one else had bought it, yet I kept getting compliments on it. These clothes are ageless by nature; you can wear items from years ago and everything fits together. You’re building a wardrobe over time – but that does require a level of confidence.”

Invest in quality pieces
“I keep pieces that are more than 30 years old and it’s all about quality. They might have cost a fortune at the time but they remain in amazing condition and I still wear them.”

Build confidence in your choices
“Something happens when you hit your mid-fifties – you really know where you’re going. Until then, you’re always trying different things out. It’s about knowing yourself and bouncing things off the people around you. That’s why I like being around young, creative people.”

Luxury should feel curated and personal 
“For many in the past, [luxury] was about buying into [established] brands, which have become oversaturated… Buying clothes should be the same; it should feel personal.”

Hirofumi Kurino

Japan’s sartorial big hitters have long intrigued the fashion world – and Hirofumi Kurino is right up there as one of the most influential figures in menswear. A co-founder of Japanese fashion retailer United Arrows (UA), where he is now a senior adviser, Kurino’s signature blend of high and low – a tailored jacket and New Balance trainers – is easy to admire and hard to imitate. Relentlessly snapped by street photographers, Kurino knows how to appreciate craftsmanship, whether in an Italian shirt, Japanese wool trousers or a good tweed, but he will happily try something new. Comfortable in his own skin, unfailingly courteous and curious about the world, Kurino, who is also a consultant for Japanese manufacturing organisation J-Quality, is the embodiment of great style.

How Kurino creates his outfits 

Go with the flow
“There’s no formula. Sometimes I choose my clothes the night before, sometimes I decide in the morning. It depends if I have a certain image in my mind.”

Find your true colours
“Colour is key for me when I’m choosing what to wear; it’s more important than the fit. Royal blue is my favourite.”

If it isn’t working, change it
“If I head out in the morning and something doesn’t feel right – maybe the socks are wrong – I’ll turn back.”

Follow you own rules
“I don’t like rules for dressing and age is irrelevant but I do avoid logos and big luxury brands, and I don’t like pre-ripped jeans. If my jeans tear naturally, that’s different.”

Find your staples and stick to them
“I still wear a lot of jackets and suits. I’m a big fan of Caruso suits; I love the way they’re relaxed but elegant. I’m interested in mass production and love the socks from my nearby supermarket. I also go to a local barber. I’ve had my hair the same way for 30 years – if I go somewhere fancy my hair will look the way the stylist wants and not like me.”

For more on creating your own style, read:  
– Adopt your own look: The case for dressing in a personal uniform