In 1884 a Greek silversmith named Sotirios Voulgaris – or Sotirio Bulgari in Italian – opened the doors to his eponymous boutique on Rome’s Via Sistina. Today, Bulgari is synonymous with the sprezzatura of the Italian capital. With the brand’s legacy secure, its CEO, Jean-Christophe Babin, is focused on safeguarding its future.

Always dressed in a sharp suit, Babin has been reimagining Bulgari not merely as a luxury house but as a custodian of Italian expertise and craft. In April 2025 he cut the ribbon on the brand’s new factory extension in Valenza, a town 600km north of Rome, in Italy’s Piedmont region, and a centre of jewellery making since the late 18th century. The site is the largest single-brand jewellery manufacturing facility in the world. It will allow Bulgari, part of the LVMH group, to double its production capacity by 2029 and to accommodate more than 1,600 employees here within the next four years. It’s a rapid expansion, even for a sector that is as resilient as fine jewellery and watches. According to Babin, who also became the CEO of LVMH Watches in March, this growth stems partly from the label’s steady momentum in the US, its resilience in China despite regional slowdowns and its appeal to a “nomadic” luxury clientele eager to trust in heritage brands.

Alongside the expanded factory, Babin also inaugurated the Scuola Bulgari in September – the house’s first foray into artisanal education. Open to the public, its courses were developed in partnership with the renowned Campanian Tarì Design School.

In one of Bulgari’s most pivotal years, Monocle takes a tour of the new wing of the Valenza factory and sits down with Babin to discuss the importance of investing in Italy – and in yourself.

Why is it so important that Bulgari jewellery is made in Italy from start to finish?
For us, it’s a strong statement about our commitment to being proactive Italian citizens. This country has managed to become the largest exporter of jewellery worldwide, which is amazing for a country of just 59 million people. We want to continue to be a major contributor to the commercial balance. If jobs are created here, they’ll generate tax revenue, which will be good for the country, and the benefits will go to the national trade balance. We don’t want to produce outside of Italy and won’t compromise or choose the easy way, which would be to create factories in different places. We are proud to be Italian and consider ourselves to be a flagship of the country’s excellence. If you think about Italy’s biggest luxury companies, alongside Ferrari, we are one of the most emblematic brands. It’s very important that this shows not only in our products and communications but in our manufacturing excellence and artisanship too.

What inspired your decision to invest in your new factory?
When we opened the original Valenza factory in 2017, we thought that the space would sustain our growth and support our development until early 2030. Immediately after the coronavirus pandemic, however, we realised that we were already at capacity. So we decided to expand radically, going from 14,000 sq m to 33,000 sq m. Today, in Valenza alone, we estimate that about 6,000 people work for the jewellery sector and of those, 1,100 are already employed by Bulgari, while more than 1,000 work for us via third-party companies.

What has been the response so far to Scuola Bulgari?
Education is not just a responsibility but an investment in the future of our craft. Luxury is rooted in excellence and savoirfaire, and those values must be nurtured and passed on. This is why we created the Scuola Bulgari and the response so far has been incredibly positive, from both within the industry and among young professionals who are eager to learn.

Jewellery and watches remain among the few luxury categories that have resisted the global luxury slowdown. What makes these pieces such good investments, even during a crisis?
Jewellery is the oldest luxury of humans. For about 150,000 years, it has always been associated with special moments or turning points in life. That means, unlike fashion, it’s an occasional purchase but is very much charged with lasting emotions. It’s also made from precious materials, whether metals such as gold or platinum, or gems that never lose value over time. Because they are in limited stock on the planet, when you buy fine or high jewellery, you cannot be wrong. It’s not a silly or speculative purchase. It might be hedonistic or pleasurable, because you can wear it and enjoy it, but financially it’s also a defensive investment. You never know whether a piece will appreciate by 50 per cent or 30 per cent but I say “defensive” because it certainly won’t fall to zero. I bought some shares in Moderna during the coronavirus pandemic and they have plummeted. That will never. happen with my ring or my watch.

What influence does heritage play in attracting luxury clients? In the case of Bulgari, is Rome always a central part of your story?
Rome really is one of the key elements at the heart of Bulgari, whether in the city’s artistic and architectural inspiration, which is reflected in every product that we craft, or in the spirit of the brand and the concept of the dolce vita – the sense of hospitality and warmth that we hope people get to experience in every Bulgari hotel. Whether you are in Milan, Beijing or Bali, we want you to somehow feel as though you were in Italy and have an Italian experience.

What comes next after such a key year for Bulgari?
We will continue to focus on our products and on deepening our connections with our clients through physical and digital experiences. While the global landscape remains complex, I’m confident in the resilience of the luxury sector. What defines true luxury is its ability to inspire and endure. By staying true to our values, Bulgari, and the industry as a whole, can thrive, even in times of uncertainty.