Insights from Watches and Wonders 2026 – the world’s leading watch fair
As Watches and Wonders gathers the biggest names in horology for its annual Swiss showcase, we examine striking new models, assess the challenges facing the sector and clock in with the event’s CEO.
Since the demise of the Baselworld watch and jewellery fair, Geneva’s Watches and Wonders – the brainchild of luxury conglomerate Richemont – has become the industry’s most significant trade show. The fair has gathered momentum and the 2026 edition is continuing this trend.
With a record-breaking turnout of nearly 60,000 visitors (up from last year’s 55,000), 6,000 retailers and 50,000 overnight stays, this marks the salon’s most significant edition to date. Once a private industry event reserved for press and collectors, it has been expanding its public engagement, with ticketed access available since 2022. Organisers have reported a 15 per cent increase in ticket sales this year, a quarter of which were sold to under-25s, showing that high-end watchmaking is engaging the next generation. There were also significant takeover projects in Geneva city centre, including a watchmaking village and a partnership with Montreux Jazz Club.
“Even if geopolitical developments might be denting the limited revival we have seen so far, Richemont’s recent results hinted at 7 per cent organic growth for the specialist watchmakers’ division in the last quarter of 2025,” says Luca Solca, the managing director of global luxury goods at equity-research firm Bernstein SG. Watches are again doing better than expected, beating categories such as fashion during the challenging economic times. But Solca advises that the war in the Middle East could have a significant impact on the performance of this year’s show.
What’s on trend
This year’s models
The best in redesigns, skeletonised dials, calendar watches and more.
Like seasonal fashion, horology follows the beat of the times – and this edition of Watches and Wonders showcases a range of key trends.
Vintage designs are always popular, with the 1960s and 1970s dominating in recent years. With its seductive shape, Piaget’s new cocktail hour Sixties is a fine example, while subtle hints of 1980s and 1990s styling are also creeping in, with softer lines and sleeker bracelet designs.
But some brands are looking ahead, such as IWC Schaffhausen, which debuts its contemporary Pilot’s Ventura Vertical Drive, in a departure from its classic codes. Parmigiani Fleurier is redesigning the chronograph, eliminating traditional subdials in favour of multiple hands.
Brands are dialling up material alchemy and artisanal techniques. Exotic hardstones feature – take Cartier’s yellow-gold and obsidian Santos-Dumont tank or Piaget’s use of blue quartz. Grand Seiko shows its skill for precision metalworking with its Tateshina Otaki waterfall edition, with a platinum case and hand-engraved dial. Skeletonised dials are draws: Hermès, Panerai, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Tag Heuer all have reimagined signature models.
Calendar watches are a big deal too: Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar and Audemars Piguet’s openwork perpetual calendars are all made with highly complex movements.
Q&A
Matthieu Humair
CEO, Watches and Wonders
What were your expectations for Watches and Wonders 2026?
This year is highlighted by the arrival of Audemars Piguet and 10 new brands. It’s great to have them at an event that’s just becoming bigger and bigger, while maintaining the level of service that makes the DNA of the salon.
Are there any new initiatives that are exciting you this year?
We are very excited about our new partnership with the Montreux Jazz Club in Geneva city centre, which showcases emerging talents from the international music scene, as well as new watchmaking talent. We also have the Watchmaking Village in town – with the Swiss Watch Industry Employers’ Association – to showcase professional opportunities and career paths.
