Zegna’s ‘golden fleece’ material is a new language of elegance
The Italian fashion house’s finest merino-wool fabric, Vellus Aureum, strikes the right balance between innovation and tradition.
Zegna’s autumn/winter 2025-26 collection took inspiration from the Piedmontese capital of Turin, a city close to the brand’s heart and not far from its HQ in Trivero. On show within the mix of chunky bombers, suede jackets and long trenches was a material innovation best discovered by touch: Vellus Aureum. Latin for “Golden Fleece”, this softer-than-cashmere merino wool is partly inspired by a suit made for the brand’s founder, Ermenegildo Zegna, for a trip to Teatro Regio di Torino.
Vellus Aureum isn’t just a pleasure to the touch or a theatrical flourish though; instead it’s a feat of craftsmanship and the result of years of research and sourcing. Procured from pure-bred Australian merino sheep, this rare hair makes up less than 0.05 per cent of the annual global wool production and each fibre is so fine that they’re barely visible to the naked eye.

“With Vellus Aureum, we wanted to explore the full potential of the world’s finest wool, not only in terms of softness but also durability, resilience and timeless beauty,” says Alessandro Sartori, Zegna’s artistic director. “It’s not just about luxury; it’s about a new language of elegance rooted in nature, craft and innovation,” he adds. “This collection represents a true milestone for Zegna, one that celebrates our legacy while shaping its evolution.” The traceable, sustainable fabric is a testament to the founder’s quest to use the best materials – and it goes to show that not all innovations mean forgetting the past.
zegna.com
This article is from Monocle’s March issue, The Monocle 100, which features our editors’ favourite 100 figures, destinations, objects and ideas.
Read the rest of the issue here.
