Fashion / Global
Asics, Perth menswear and Swedish shoes.
This year’s edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the 27th iteration of the Geneva event, was a study in back-to-basics watch design. Amid sluggish global sales the Swiss watch fraternity has opted en masse for timeless pieces aimed at pleasing committed buyers and collectors.
Glashütte-based A Lange & Söhne gave its classic Lange 1 Moon Phase an elegant facelift, while Parmigiani Fleurier launched its popular Tonda 1950 in a range of new colours. Cartier expanded its Drive de Cartier men’s collection with a smart new Ultra Thin version and Audemars Piguet revealed a wonderfully retro new Royal Oak with a yellow-gold strap and champagne dial. The luxury-watch industry is in a period of self-reflection and it’s forcing brands to refocus – the pieces on display at sihh show that that’s no bad thing.
Jupe by Jackie x Closed
Fish with legs, winged dinosaurs and horses with birds’ heads: there’s a surreal streak to this collection of embroidered women’s shirts, blouses and jeans. The designs come courtesy of Jackie Villevoye, who is behind Amsterdam label Jupe by Jackie. Hand-stitched in Uttar Pradesh, India, they bring a playful touch to Hamburg-based Closed’s elegant staples.
Hawksmill Denim Co
Hawksmill’s jeans are made using traditional methods but boast modern fits (slim and tapered). Brighton-based co-founders Fraser Trewick and Anthony Smith source non-selvedge denim from Isko in Turkey; selvedge comes from mills in Nisshinbo, Japan.
I Ro Se
Brothers Gen and Dai Takahashi are behind this leather-goods label; they work with family-run studios in Tokyo to produce everything from totes to shoulder bags. These origami-like wallets are a standout.
These cheery striped ties are a highlight of Caruso’s spring/summer 2017 collection. Each one is made from seersucker and then hand-embroidered with a heart.
Oliver Peoples X Berluti
US eyewear giant Oliver Peoples and French shoemaker Berluti have joined forces to create an elegant collection of “Made in Italy” shades inspired by classic designs from Oliver Peoples’ archives; the round Rue Marbeuf in forest-green acetate is our favourite.
The country’s only multibrand shop specialising in handmade shoes from small manufacturers was founded in Stockholm by Patrik Löf and Daniel Tung in 2012 – and it has just opened a second store in the upscale Östermalm district.
“Our shoes are three, four times more expensive than most others but they will last for 25 years and are made by small, often family-owned factories in Europe,” says Löf.
Like the original, the new shop stocks a small-yet-thoughtful selection of brands, including Italy’s Enzo Bonafè, Portugal’s Carlos Santos and, as a new addition, the UK’s John Lobb.
Andrew Lim grew up in Singapore before moving to Perth to study fashion. After various retail stints he launched McKilroy in 2013. The inner-city menswear shop has attracted a dedicated following for its stellar selection of international brands, including Hender Scheme, Visvim and Officine Générale.
Why did you open McKilroy?
I thought the menswear market in Perth lacked depth and variety. I could only buy the brands I liked online or if I was travelling.
How do you decide on stock?
I look for high-quality brands with a story, though I had worn most of the brands I stock before I opened the shop.
Does the difference between seasons in the northern and southern hemispheres make things tricky?
Yes. Viewing autumn/winter collections is difficult as I am buying summer pieces for Australia, so I choose things that are lighter and versatile.
What’s the Perth market like?
It is still a small city compared with those in the eastern states but, thanks to the web, the number of guys interested in fashion is growing.
Sportswear giants are pushing the sartorial envelope ever further. For the past few seasons Adidas and Kolor have dreamt up running gear with highlighter-bright accents; then last September Under Armour made its New York Fashion Week debut with a line by Tim Coppens.
Now Asics has joined the game with Jyuni White, a highly technical unisex capsule. It’s all white and all class: a hooded jacket is stitched from lightweight waterproof mesh, while a pair of shorts come in loopback French terry. Many consumers want to look head-turningly good while out for a jog; increasingly, they can.
This French workwear brand has been making everything from overalls to chef aprons since 1931; it has also supplied public bodies such as the Paris Métro. Tokyo-based company Boy’s Co redesigned its thick woollen jackets and for the past couple of years has distributed them exclusively in Japan. This year they will be sold in Europe.
A trio of self-confessed shirt nerds founded Schnayderman’s in Stockholm five years ago. “We aim to become the most progressive shirt brand around; we want to provide staples as well as contemporary styles,” says Joel Urwitz, one of the co-founders. This season the brand delves into technical overshirts for the first time with this waterproof, sage-green number.