STAY: Riad Tizwa: At this six-room riad, breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace and includes a spread of semi-leavened bread, pancakes and homemade yoghurt. riadtizwa.com
EAT: Ksar Essaoussan: Fountains, colourful tiles and hidden staircases lead to a dining room where dinner begins with a rosewater handwash before guests enjoy a multi-course Moroccan menu.
SHOP: Soufiane Zarib: The third-generation Marrakshi is the king of rugs. His designs are minimalist and made with sheep or goat’s wool from Middle Atlas.
VISIT: Maison de la Photographie: This museum collection features 10,000 photos of Morocco taken between 1870 and 1960. The wild Atlas Mountains are a highlight.
DO: Beldi Country Club: Three swimming pools and a hammam set in lush gardens just outside Marrakech make this the perfect place to go for a dip and scrub.
STAY: Hôtel Central: This whitewashed hotel was built in 1912 and sits on a quaint square in the Ancienne Medina. It had a lick of paint in 2018 but retains its heritage.
EAT: Umayya: A Middle Eastern-style joint providing stunning sea views as you tuck into your chawarma au poisson (grilled fish served with saffron sauce in a warm pita).
VISIT: Mosquée Hassan II: Built for King Hasaan II’s 60th birthday, this mind-boggling mosque has a 60-storey minaret.
DO: La Corniche: When you grow tired of the traffic-choked streets, head to this oceanfront boulevard. It’s a cooling stretch that wraps around the windswept coast.
STAY: Hôtel Nord Pinus Tanger: This hotel boasts stellar views across the Strait of Gibraltar. Rooms feature stained-glass windows and ornate wrought-iron beds. nordpinustanger.com
EAT: Le Salon Bleu: A spiral staircase leads to the roof terrace of this small restaurant, where diners can enjoy sardines with couscous – and a stunning view. +212 (0)6 6211 2724
SHOP: Laure Welfling: Welfling founded her fashion brand in Paris in 1978 and opened this boutique in 2001. You’ll find her original designs plus other treasures. laurewelfling.com
VISIT: Cinémathèque de Tanger: This 425-seat restored cinema opened in 2007 to screen independent films and a range of old Moroccan flicks. cinemathequedetanger.com
DO: Réserve du Cap Spartel and Atlantic beaches: Some 14km west of the city centre, a sign marks where the Atlantic meets the Med. The coastline boasts beaches, a nature reserve and a cave where Hercules supposedly once took a nap.
Keep your eyes peeled for the Monocle Travel Guide to Marrakech, Tangier + Casablanca, which hits shelves in October. See the full collection at monocle.com/shop/print.