Welcome and contents / Hungary
Hungary for more?
The Magyars, as Hungarians are sometimes known, landed in the Carpathian Basin a millennium ago – and you can see why they stayed. The Central European nation has surprises aplenty. There’s never been a better time to take the road less trodden.
For a nation at the heart of Europe, Hungary is a relative unknown to many. Even those who’ve sampled the delights of the Tokaj wine region, tested the curative waters of Budapest’s baths or napped by the shores of Lake Balaton might not know the extent and beauty of the mountains, lakes, plains and charming cities beyond them. And there are plenty of surprises and grit too. The nation’s Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and Soviet past is evident in mosques, imperial residences and the odd communist-era block. There’s also an embarrassment of riches in the form of abbeys, castles and medieval towns. Despite its varied geography and places to swim, hike, climb and cycle, there’s not much that can’t be reached within a three-hour drive. There’s an Austrian flavour to the north and oddly Mediterranean air in the south but there’s also a homegrown confidence and edge that’s all its own. Hotels are nestled beside time-tested vineyards, while cookery, craft and art are being refined by a savvy new generation. With this in mind, it’s time we introduced you.
Hungary map
Getting around
How to get where you’re going, the lay of the landmarks and a bird’s eye view of the nation’s best bits.
Budapest
Capital ideas
A whistle-stop trip to sample Budapest’s baths, top tables and plumpest pillows for the night. Plus: a cultural tick-list.
Northwestern Hungary
Pannonhalma and the northwest
From stop-offs in sleepy abbeys to contemporary takes on hospitality, our editors’ top tips from the region.
Lake Balaton and around
Balaton and nearby
Perhaps Hungary’s best-kept secret, the lake is apt for a paddle and some of the nation’s best appointed towns are here too. Anyone for a dip?
Southern Hungary
Pecs and the south
We survey the Medieval town of Pecs (pronounced Petch) plus nearby must-sees and a few fetching factories still making gloves and porcelain the old way.
The Danube Bend
Szentendre, Zebegeny and beyond
Hunched around a crook of the famed river just north of the capital, this impossibly pretty area is home to spas of distinction, winsome wine and much to explore.
Northeastern Hungary
Eger and surroundings
Treehouse hotels, pretty independent pensions and plenty to eat, drink and see – not to mention a few ways to work up a sweat then unwind afterwards.
Eastern Hungary
Tokaj and surroundings
Its wine is coveted across the world but there’s also a bubbling food scene, ancient castles and spas to sample here. Plus: bike tours and the great outdoors.
Essential experiences
Final words
Some parting suggestions for rounding out a trip, from the Etyek wine region south of Budapest to typical street food and a shot of palinka (fruit brandy).
Editor
Josh Fehnert
Reporters
Ivan Carvalho
Alexei Korolyov
Guide photographer
Felix Brüggemann
Photo editor
Shin Miura
Senior designer
Maria Hamer
Chief sub editor
Lewis Huxley
Special thanks
Eszter Kovacs
Julia Ferenczy
Adam Lebor
Tommy Seres
Tamas Koros
Tamas Millin
Reka Nagy
Zsofia Kiraly
Thomas Reynolds
Luke Courtier
Hungarian Tourism Agency