Upcycled cashmere jumpers, duffle coats, denim jackets and an elegant two-piece twill suit engineered for the slopes – with these pieces in your wardrobe, you can keep your temperature (and spirits) up as the leaves come down. Just don’t tell anyone about your indulgent new socks: they’re for your feet only.
Milan-based Loro Piana has repurposed old prototypes and knitwear leftovers into new items as part of Loro, a new capsule collection of recycled cashmere pieces for autumn. The process of upcycling surplus fabrics from the brand’s mills in northern Italy began with selecting individual items before unravelling each yarn by hue, categorising them by colour and respinning them with virgin, undyed cashmere to create high-quality blends. “This collection showcases our know-how and savoir-faire when it comes to fibre,” says the brand’s product development director, Alessandra Varianini. “We went through the materials manually to ensure that the textiles didn’t get stressed too much. This is a process that no machine can do.”
The new collection, the first of its kind for the brand, consists of jumpers, a scarf, hat and pair of lightweight trainers, all crafted using upcycled fibres. In true Loro Piana style, the colour palettes are neutral and the silhouettes relaxed. “We could not overdye the final yarn because that would affect the fibres,” adds Varianini. “Plus, we didn’t want anything too bright or decadent.”
Based in London and known for its modernist retail spaces and unconventional scents, Perfumer H is now expanding to Hong Kong and Taipei. In-house spatial designer Kathryn Pell and founder and creative director Lynn Harris have been working on the shops’ interiors to marry the design signature that they established in London with new features and local materials. In Taipei, the boutique’s front desk and display cases are made using batu wood, while its façade is framed with handmade clay tiles. Inside, olfactory testing shelves feature handblown glass bottle stoppers suspended in test tubes.
Behind a pair of linen curtains in the new Hong Kong shop, you’ll find a laboratory where Harris and her team prepare bespoke formulas and refill candles. “Our clients appreciate the level of detail, from the product to the shop design; they want something that highlights their individuality,” says Harris, who looks to Taiwan, Hong Kong and Japan for inspiration.
Jonathan Anderson is the latest designer to participate in APC’s ongoing collaboration series – or “interactions”, as the Parisian label likes to call them. Anderson was thinking about his own dream wardrobe when designing the line with apc founder Jean Touitou. It ranges from rocker-inspired fitted biker jackets to looser knits and traditional British duffle coats made with rough, textured wool. The Northern Irish designer, whose JW Anderson label is known for its experimental silhouettes, also encouraged APC to divert ever so slightly from its purist design ethos, adding raw edges on denim and bursts of colour on knitwear. “Thanks to Jonathan, we were able to go a little further than usual,” says Touitou.
“Our work meetings have been like a very quick and productive ping-pong game. When I brought an idea, he immediately transformed it into something better,” adds the designer, who sold a majority stake of APC to LVMH investment fund L Catterton earlier this year.
Osaka-based skiwear brand Descente works with designer Mitsuru Yamada on its line of everyday clothing, Descente Allterrain. Yamada, who developed the outerwear worn by Japanese athletes at the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver, is best known for his ability to marry technical materials and sportswear details with more classic designs. This black suit is a stellar example: it is made from a quick-drying polyester twill, a utilitarian fabric that was initially developed by Descente for the slopes. Better suited to streets (and boardrooms), it’s also wrinkle-free and has a hidden elastic waistband for extra comfort. We will be wearing this handy two-piece on our next transpacific flight and keeping it on to attend business meetings. All terrain, indeed.
French-Japanese label Maison Kitsuné is lending its irreverent spirit to Barbour’s waxed jackets as part of a newly launched autumn collaboration. The capsule collection consists of waxed jackets updated with oversized fits, sharp military jackets featuring playful tartan linings, as well as matching bucket hats and soft Shetland wool jumpers. The Maison Kitsuné fox, the label’s popular mascot, has also been embroidered across sweaters and T-shirts – all dressed up in a sage-green Barbour jacket.
Burberry’s autumn/winter collection, the first designed by chief creative officer Daniel Lee, has made its debut. The launch is part of Burberry’s extensive rebrand, which includes a new logo, refurbished London flagship shop and a return to the equestrian knight motif. Lee, who grew up near Castleford, where Burberry’s trench coats are made, is striving to reclaim its British identity, having shot campaigns against London landmarks and taken over the Bond Street Tube station.
On the sartorial front, there has been a return to brand classics too, with check patterns and smart gabardine overshirts taking centre stage. We have our eye on a loose forest-green car coat.
Are these the perfect socks? They are made in Brescia, Italy, using the finest merino wool and are inspired by the spirit of US sports. “I wanted to create something that customers could get pleasure out of daily,” says Shiro’s founder, Jonathan Kam. “I love the idea of an item that’s so indulgent yet hidden within a shoe.” Kam came up with the design after seeing a pair of sports socks from 1985, which inspired the fit: neither too baggy, nor too tight, with an ultra-soft feel. Offered in a variety of neutral colours, Shiro socks are now available on the brand’s online platform and in speciality shops worldwide. Head to the Clark Street Mercantile in Montréal or Chickee’s Vintage in New York to replenish your sock drawer.