Pearls of wisdom

Maria Lemos certainly knows how to dress the part. The Greek-born entrepreneur has been running Mouki Mou, one of the most elegant retail addresses on London’s Chiltern Street, for more than a decade. Meanwhile, her showroom Rainbowwave represents best-in-class brands from around the world, from Athens’ leading jeweller, Ileana Makri, to artisanal Spanish label Masscob. Her knowledge of craft, textiles and the best makers to watch is practically endless – for autumn, she recommends keeping an eye on Parisian brand Carven. “We just introduced Carven to Mouki Mou – it’s exactly what I want to wear now,” she says.

A sharp point of view and an appreciation for quality inform everything that Lemos does. Whether she is dressing herself, selecting new labels to stock in her boutiques or choosing a location for her next project, she’s not one to follow trends or veer away from her own aesthetic. “I don’t ever want to be anywhere other than Chiltern Street,” she says, speaking of m.ii, a new shop she opened down the road from the original Mouki Mou. “It was about evolution, not just about having a second space. I don’t believe in duplication.”

Lemos has equally strong opinions when it comes to design and, as evidence, points to her longstanding collaboration with architect William Russell. For the interiors of m.ii, the pair created “a darker, richer environment” that features cork flooring, Cornish clay plaster walls and Portland stone shelving.

Over the years, Lemos has learnt to create a separation when shopping for her customers, rather than for herself. Still, she remains her best ambassador and her impeccable taste filters through to her shopfloor. m.ii, which also marks her first foray into menswear, carries handmade shirts by Oliver Church and mountain-inspired vests by Rier, both based in Paris, as well as oversized coats by Japanese label Arts & Science. Here, she shares insights on building an ageless wardrobe. — L

How do you shop for yourself?
I rarely do – in fact I only shop at the end of the Mouki Mou sales. I keep saying that I want to see my mistakes. I was recently wearing a wool Lemaire dress that I picked up at the end of the season because no one else had bought it, yet I kept getting compliments on it. These clothes are ageless by nature; you can wear items from years ago and everything fits together. You’re building a wardrobe over time – but that does require a level of confidence.

How did you find that confidence in your choices?
Something happens when you hit your mid-fifties – you really know where you’re going. Until then, you’re always trying different things out. It’s about knowing yourself and bouncing things off the people around you. That’s why I like being around young, creative people.

What does luxury mean to you, especially when it comes to your fashion choices?
In the past, for many people it was about buying into [established] brands, which have become oversaturated. I felt more luxurious when I was in Marseille and visited Maison Empereur, which sells cookware. Niwaki [also on Chiltern Street] offers the most luxurious experience: buying tools in a beautiful environment. You go to [London butcher] The Ginger Pig and it’s luxurious. Buying clothes should be the same; it should feel personal.

What are some of your most treasured pieces?
I keep pieces that are more than 30 years old and it’s all about quality. They might have cost a fortune at the time but they remain in amazing condition and I still wear them.

Any recommendations for the new autumn/winter season?
I love suiting and a black dress – [New York label] Fforme has done an amazing new column shape. I’d also suggest a pair of Marsèll heeled shoes in rust – I like the idea of a surprise colour – plus, a pearl necklace. Ileana Makri has done a special one for Mouki Mou that blends pearls and antique beads. That’s about it: a great pair of shoes, a black dress, pearls and I’m done.
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