Fashion / Global
Fashion
Briefing
The clothes, bags and shoes we've fallen for this month, plus news designers, brands and retail ventures.
Scaling up
Stockholm — HUMAN SCALES
Somehow Swedes always manage to get it right and the 2007-launched Human Scales is no exception. Set up by a group of friends as a jeans-only brand, the label has now grown into offering a wide collection of men’s jackets, tees, shirts, jerseys and knitwear. The signature scales logo, created in collaboration with Stockholm’s graphic design studio Chevychase, is on every garment and adds to the simple designs. The Winston jacket (pictured) from the Archipelago collection will keep you warm and on-trend even on the windiest days.
humanscales.se
Bright ideas
Paris — MANUFACTURE DES RIGOLES
Looking for this season’s perfect tote? Well, here you go. Made in St-Malo and Paris, designer Félicie Bajard’s creations play with leather, canvas and porcelain detailing. And all these vivid colours to get you out of the winter blues. Go ahead, brighten up!
manufacturedesrigoles.com
Shoe heaven
Hong Kong — SHOE LIBRARY
Created by interior designer Andre Fu, Lane Crawford’s newly opened shoe gallery spreads over the astonishing 2,300 sq m. Romano marble and lush rugs from the Fu Collection for Tai Ping Carpets plus over 80 bespoke pieces of furniture serve as a backdrop to the abundant collection of shoes by the likes of Giuseppe Zanotti, Robert Cleregie, Chloé and Lanvin. Everything from the main Great Room area and the Market Place, with its dark wood room dividers, to the fashion-inspired pastries at the Library Café was conceived to offer a top-notch shopping experience.
lanecrawford.com
Best buys:
1. Lanvin leather flats
2. Sam Edelman’s Renzo studded suede ankle boots
3. Pierre Hardy’s suede peep-toe high-heel pumps
From the top drawer
Rotterdam — ALFREDO GONZALES
“Socks are the most underrated piece of clothing in someone’s wardrobe,” says 28-year-old coffee shop entrepreneur turned sock manufacturer Dennis Ebeli. Ebeli who grew up in a Dutch-Mexican household launched this dandy collection of socks last November named after his alter ego, Alfredo Gonzales. These cotton socks promise to liven up even the gloomiest days and outfits.
alfredogonzales.com
Star stripes
New York — EDITH A MILLER
Jennifer Murray and Nancy Gibson of the recently launched womenswear label Edith A Miller are taking over a French classic – the sailor stripe. All pieces are made in a family-run knitting mill in Mohnton, Pennsylvania. We love the casual ribbed cotton day dresses and tops.
edithamiller.com
A real corker
Veneto — PETER NON
Conceived as a “non-shoe”, Peter Non’s footwear is hand-crafted in Italy’s Dolomites from only eco-friendly materials. For extra comfort and softness, all pairs are assembled using an anatomic cork and rubber sole. Our pick? The desert boots of the Rodalquilar series in soft dark grey.
peternon.com
Great Scot
Melrose — ROSIE SUGDEN
Scottish Cashmere was launched in October – just in time to bundle up for the brisk UK winter. Designer Rosie Sugden was inspired by the rolling hills of the Scottish borders where she is based. All of her products are made from two-ply woollen Scottish yarn and are dyed and spun in a 200-year-old mill.
rosiesugden.com
Brace yourself
Milan — 10A
In 2008 young designers Daria Dazzan and Matteo Cibic decided to start a workshop offering only 10 one-of-a-kind suspender trousers each month. Shortly after, 10A was born. The duo uses only Italian fabrics and each pair is hand-made in a small tailor’s studio in north-east Italy. All models come with matching braces.
10a.it
Coming home
Milan — DUVETICA
Known as the caterer of chic goose-down jackets to the smartest skiers around the globe, the Venetian brand Duvetica has recently opened its fourth store in Milan (co-founder Stefano Rovoletto pictured). Its other three stores in Kitzbühel, Courmayeur and Tokyo have proved the global need for well-crafted, fetching garments. The mutual affection with the Japanese market – it is its biggest after all – has led to the appointment of Pritzker Architecture Prize winner Tadao Ando, who designed the 400 sq m store. The rich colours of the garments brighten up the industrial layout.
duvetica.it
New pastures
France — ARMOR LUX
An authentic Breton brand, Armor Lux goes beyond its trademark navy and white striped sailor tees by teaming up with the Japanese designers behind KATO. In their third collaboration, the Armor Lux X KATO collection showcases knitted terry material hoodies and shirts with the uncut looped fabric facing the inside.
armorlux.com
A different beat
Paris — TIGER SUSHI
Creativity runs in the Bouaziz family. Seven years after Joakim Bouaziz founded Tiger Sushi as a record label in 2001 in Paris, his cousin Laurene, freshly out of Studio Berçot fashion school, came up with the idea to merge music with fashion. Clothing label Tiger Sushi Furs was launched in 2008. Both branches of the Tiger Sushi brand are based on the same values: they are fun, open-minded, experimental and indulge in a healthy mix of past and present. We love these versatile sweaters, which are light enough to wear to a Tiger Sushi gig, yet still warm enough to venture into the winter night afterwards.
tigersushi.com
New to the capital
London
Oliver Spencer’s new retail space in Soho’s Berwick Street is the third stand alone store of the British brand after its two venues on Lambs Conduit Street. It offers outerwear, traditional shirting and footwear.
oliverspencer.co.uk