Fashion - Issue 73 - Magazine | Monocle

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Brazil nuts

London [Frescobol Carioca]

Brazilian-born, London-based Harry Brantly and Max Leese launched Frescobol Carioca in 2009 to bring Rio de Janeiro’s style to the UK and beyond. Part of the latest collection, these tailored cotton swim shorts are inspired by the energy of Ipanema. They also come in green, red and yellow.

Feeling shady

Tokyo [Eyevan 7285]

Tokyo-based eyewear brand Eyevan started in 1972 as a part of Yamamoto Optical Lens Manufacturing. The label was relaunched last year as Eyevan 7285 offering sunglasses and prescription eyewear. The current collection features 15 different styles in 42 colours, all designed and made in Japan.

Carrying favour

Paris [la Contrie]

“In my head I had Savile Row,” says Edwina de Charette de la Contrie (pictured), reflecting on the concept for the leather-goods atelier that she opened just off Rue St Honoré in Paris five years ago. A selection of women’s and men’s bags are displayed on the ground floor of La Contrie while downstairs two artisans work away at producing them – entirely to each client’s choice of leather, style, lining, hot stamping and trim. She estimates there are about 14,000 possible combinations in total and each bag takes three days to handcraft. The collection is simple and timeless and the brand shows the importance of doing one thing and doing it well.

In the bag

London [Piquadro]

Marco Palmieri was just 22 when he founded Piquadro, initially a small manufacturer in Bologna making high-quality leather bags for brands such as Gucci and Valentino. It is now a global company whose first London outpost recently opened. “We’ve waited a long time to find the perfect space here. Along with Fifth Avenue in New York, this is the best place in the world for international visibility,” Palmieri says of the shop’s location on Regent Street. Milanese Karim Azzabi designed the striking interior. The shop offers a selection of the brand’s latest lines, including the iconic Blue Square collection and the Sartoria range of handmade bags and briefcases.

Literary looks

London [Louisa Parris]

London-based designer Louisa Parris has taken a page from English literature and another from British Railway advertising archives for her third scarf collection, woven from silk twill. Each of the six designs is named after a Jane Austin character, while the striking colour palette and architectural shapes come from 1930s British Railway posters.

Step up

Marche [Barleycorn]

Italy’s Marche region is famous for classic leather footwear. Shoe brand Barleycorn looks to continue the tradition but wants to dress down its styles with hi-tech materials more commonly seen on US trainers. Its Air collection pairs a formal brogue upper, made from either calfskin or suede, with an air-cushion polymer sole with anti-slip rubber tread, suitable for the the office and outdoors.

Earn your stripes

Lyon [Arpenteur]

Three years ago, cousins Marc Asseily and Laurent Bourven founded Arpenteur to make fuss-free contemporary clothing. Manufactured entirely in France, they have adapted the Breton stripe pattern for their Bréhat top and given the cotton crew neck a couple of design twists. Available in a beige base with navy stripes or vice versa, this piece features three-quarter sleeves. The pocket lines are misaligned with the rest of the garment for contrast.

Go green

Toronto [Outclass]

Designer Matteo Sgaramella founded Outclass in 2009, which made its runway debut at Toronto Fashion Week in March. For this green gingham shirt, Sgaramella has focused on the details: pure Spanish cotton fabric, a single-welt breast pocket and hidden collar buttons. A local shirting firm run by a third-generation Italian family stitches the final product.

Swiss super store

Zürich [Pkz Women]

This March saw the opening of Switzerland’s largest premium women’s multi-brand store, PKZ Women. Set on Zürich’s main shopping artery Bahnhofstrasse, the four-storey glass venue belongs to the 133-year-old family-owned PKZ retail group. “Our main objective is to become the leading mid-range-to-premium retailer in the Swiss market,” says CEO Philippe Olivier Burger. Brands on offer include Armani, Valentino, Polo Ralph Lauren and Akris Punto, plus exclusive shop-in-shops by German labels Dorothee Schumacher and OPUS. The building, which is the result of a CHF12m (€9.8m) investment, features a large LED mural designed by British artist Julian Opie.

Neoprene dream

London [Atea Oceanie]

New Zealand native Laura Myers creates elegant, South Seas-inspired women’s pieces and accessories. For the second season of her womenswear brand Atea Oceanie, she wanted to come up with fluid lines in a simple colour palette that allowed easy layering. The innovative use of neoprene, as seen in this clean-lined white mousse dress, underscores her dedication to well-structured, mix-and-match items.

“I love the neoprene that we’ve used for this piece; it adds a lightweight freshness to it that makes the dress feel both elegant and sporty,” says London-based Myers.

Caramel case

Paris [Cartier]

The inspiration for this Louis Cartier bag – named after the Parisian company’s founder – is based on “beautiful unique objects and accessories that Cartier has been creating for more than 150 years”, says Marlin Yuson, the brand’s creative director for leather goods. Handmade from caramel calfskin in Italy and France, this timeless bag is built to last.


Thomas Harvey

Head of design, menswear, Aquascutum


Acquired by Hong Kong-based YGM Trading in April 2012, the changes for UK trenchcoat maker Aquascutum have been dramatic. With a new head of design for menswear, the brand is keeping its reputation for traditional tailoring alive while developing a broad luxury offering, from suits to leather goods.

Q: What are you looking to achieve with the new collection?
A: We always start the collections focused on the core principles and heritage of the brand. A key focus has been on using the best factories and mills in the industry. The collections will always include signature pieces that have Aquascutum core detailing but we evolve these styles using modern fabrications and finishing.

Q: You have a strong presence in the Asian markets. How are you expecting your growth into broader luxury categories to be received in the UK?
A: We have a loyal customer base in Asia but consumers today want to see what the new Aquascutum has to offer. We feel there will be exciting opportunities to grow into these areas over the coming seasons.

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