Fashion - Issue 86 - Magazine | Monocle

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Look the part

Autumn manifesto

Make an effortless transition from summer to autumn with our pick of essential clothes and must-have accessories.



Tomorrowland’s elegant womenswear has launched in London at Selfridges and Liberty. Hiroyuki Sasaki’s brand buys in Japanese and European cotton and wool, as well as creating its own fabrics. For this preppy shirt they opt for soft cotton; this loose-belted tartan skirt is in fine wool. We’re confident that the brand’s just-so Japanese charm will win fans in its new market.



The new collection from Swedish trainer brand Eytys draws inspiration from the rugs made by Afghan women in refugee camps in Pakistan, who weave their everyday-life motifs into their carpets.

Stüssy Livin’ General Store

USA, Japan

These summery canvas slip-ons, from Californian streetwear brand Stüssy and Japan’s Moonstar, come in navy, black or brown with an elastic strap for a snug fit. ;



Montblanc has taken inspiration from sfumato, an ingenious painting technique pioneered during the Renaissance by Leonardo da Vinci. It has used the process to treat the leather, highlighting its natural beauty and warm colours. This new range includes fine calfskin bags, briefcases, wallets, coin cases, card holders and belts.



Founded in 1878 by Clément Gouverneur, Gouv/au’s simple silhouettes have long been a hallmark of its eye-catching specs.

Le Mont Saint Michel


Paris-based Le Mont Saint Michel’s work jacket is an updated version of those worn by agricultural workers in western France in the early 20th century. This long-sleeved, tightly woven cotton version includes three patch pockets and caters to discerning customers who don’t want to sacrifice style for functionality. The jacket is an ideal purchase to allay the autumn chills.



Corthay’s small leather goods reveal the brand’s playful streak: they come with their own superhero comic strip. Wallets and purses are made from crocodile skin; camel leather is already used for the signature shoes.



These striped mohair Valgañón scarves are part of Loewe’s latest autumn/winter collection, which is designed by Jonathan Anderson. With his bold use of red, navy and yellow, the British designer has injected a new vitality into the established Spanish fashion house that is known for its painstaking craftsmanship and attention to detail.



Clothing, accessories and homeware brand Marimekko was started by Armi Ratia to bring colour and joie de vivre to Finland. Marimekko will continue with the philosophy this October when it launches a limited-edition wool scarf worldwide in time for Breast Cancer Awareness Month. A generous portion of the proceeds from the sale of each grey-and-pink striped scarf will be donated to the cause in the US.



Leatherware specialist Ghurka’s brass-accented Kilburn bag is best in chestnut. The wide-opening top and detachable shoulder strap make it a handy holdall for a weekend away.

Hamilton and Hare


Based on boxing shorts, the briefs by this young London label are handsomely tailored and especially comfortable as they are made from a cutting-edge cotton-Lyocell blend.



For a warm and breathable running outfit, pair an Adidas Coolmax top with these breezy shorts. Underneath their baggy nylon outer shell is a tighter layer that will keep out cold drafts.



A pocket square is the accent of sophistication every jacket needs. Far from being an old-fashioned touch, Post-Imperial’s prints peeking out of your pocket are just the thing. Reinterpreting traditional patterns as colourful new designs, this US accessories brand also makes lively scarves and ties. This lightweight fringed green-and-azure square is woven from silk dyed using adire, a traditional technique originating from the Yoruba people of Nigeria. After being hand-drawn with a cassava starch paste, the fabric is dyed to create items that have a one-of-a-kind feel.



With its homewares, accessories and womenswear lines already a success, cashmere expert Oyuna is adding a much-anticipated capsule collection for men. London-based, Mongolian-born Oyuna Tserendorj creates strikingly cut pieces that maintain the cosiness of her homeland’s famed fibres. This elegant raw-edged jacket is reversible: the dark navy look can be swapped for the light-blue lining inside.

Norse Projects


Six years since its debut menswear collection, outerwear brand Norse Projects has launched its first women’s line. Gender-neutral pieces, such as this straight-cut woollen coat, help uphold the brand’s spare, Scandinavian feel.

Rue de Verneuil


Launched in 2014, this Parisian brand makes clutches and bags to suit any outfit, from brightly striped sailor sacks to felt totes. For an autumn bag we would advise this natty tote, which is capacious enough for work and play.

Atlantique Ascoli


Atlantique Ascoli came up with the latest collection for her eponymous label while imagining a perfectly packed suitcase to take on her trips. On a quest to find the ideal blouse, the line also showcases beautifully cut dresses and tunics.

Dhu Performance Cashmere


Inspired by 20th-century polar explorers’ gear, Scottish brand Dhu makes sporty woollen clothing. The merino-cashmere Basecamp Hoody, with its full-length zip and deep pockets, is ideal for layering.


Japan, Italy

Stringent tests saw designer Masanaka Sakao settle on this overcoat’s down: a mixture of wool and polyester.



This leatherwear collection of wallets, key holders, pouches and phone holders from Acne Studios debuts this September. The lambskin-lined pieces come in black, white, orange and burgundy.

Ermenegildo Zegna


The Italian menswear brand has always set itself apart through its ethically crafted luxury accessories. Its acetate sunglasses finished with Zeiss lenses reflect its trademark elegance.



American outerwear brand Patagonia was founded in 1973 around the concept of making clothes that last a lifetime. The company grew out of the love of wild earthy places and today it also works to protect the planet by operating a socially responsible business. Its latest initiative, Worn Wear, has taken Patagonia on a cross-country mission to change people’s relationships with their clothing. Staff from the Reno service centre in Nevada travelled throughout the US fixing worn-out clothing. The solar-powered camper van that transported them is made of salvaged redwood and fuelled by biodiesel, with an industrial Juki sewing machine inside.

Bee Clothing


There’s a buzz about London-based designer Ben Crane’s winsome outerwear. Founded in 2012, the company specialises in well-cut British-made jackets that are ideal for a cold snap.

Sperry x YMC


Boat-shoe maestro Sperry teamed up with London-based YMC this summer to create these casual kicks. Rubber soles accent the hardy suede uppers and the shoe is available in black, light beige or brown.

Maison Kitsuné

Hong Kong

Adding to its global outposts in New York and Tokyo, Parisian music-cum-fashion label Maison Kitsuné is setting up a permanent home in Hong Kong. For the brand’s bright base in Causeway Bay, co-founders and creative directors Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki have chosen vivid red lanterns and elaborate wooden cabinets to add a classic Chinese touch to the company’s typically French sleekness. A summery update of the preppy “Hongkongais” capsule collection, first released in March for the brand’s popular pop-up shop in town, will also be present at the new space.


Antoine Floch

Director and co-founder

Man/Woman tradeshows

What are the differences between Paris and New York?
We have eight shows a year split between Paris and New York. At the New York shows, the majority of buyers are from North America and Asia. At the Paris shows, the traffic is international. Also, the New York shows happen during market week, a week after fashion week. The Paris shows are in the middle of fashion week.

What’s special about the Man/Woman tradeshows?
Firstly, the curation of the brands at our shows: their collections, identity and distribution are key factors for our selection. Secondly, the visitors: Man/Woman is for buyers and the press; no need for factory sales representatives or bloggers.

What have your favourite brand discoveries been so far?
From Man: Ddugoff, Sunnei and Several. From Woman: Studio Nicholson, I Love Mr Mittens and FP Journe.


Luca Levi

CEO, Baracuta


With an Italian at the helm, Baracuta has brought international know-how to its production. Opened in August, its first standalone shop in London – a stone’s throw from Carnaby Street – honours the brand’s history.

How important is the shop’s location?
I was immediately mesmerised by the intimate atmosphere of Newburgh Street: an epicentre of the Mod movement that was so influential in our brand’s heritage.

What are Baracuta’s guiding principles?
The brand was born with the G9 sport jacket, which soon became a symbol of rupture with its own elegant transgression, eccentricity and relaxed singularity. Baracuta’s values have been revised through an innovative approach that extends to the rest of the collection, from the waterproof capsules to the soon-to-be-introduced women’s line.

How important have international influences been for the brand?
From its fabrics to its key styles, Baracuta breathes Britishness. The Italian factor can be found in how we source our suppliers and the creative process behind each collection.

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