Opinion / Andrew Tuck
Fancy some forgiveness pants?
Slippers. I don’t want to throw a red sock into the white wash of our morning conversation but be honest: what do you think of them? Please don’t tell me I am the only outlier on this one. Slippers fall into the same category as tea drinkers and clocks that tick too loudly: they are about not going out, not having fun, staying in to watch TV and time being lost when you could be tearing the town up. As you will have gathered, I don’t own a pair but I have noticed that most of my contemporaries – people who lead seemingly interesting lives – have succumbed over the years. Even my partner has some (from Trunk, nonetheless) but it’s not something we have managed to talk about. I fear he’ll be looking at catalogues for retirement homes next.
This may seem harsh, even a little irrational. But you have to defend some sartorial barricades or suddenly you’re going to work in sweatpants and sliders. Am I sounding a little “the lady doth protest too much”? (Look at me go: Shakespeare and slipper-shaming and we are only in paragraph two.) Well, you’re right. I admit it: I have allowed the defences to be breached.
Two weeks ago I was in New York. A little tired, I wandered into the James Perse shop on Church Street in Tribeca. Now, for the uninitiated, I’ll explain: James Perse makes logo-free clothes in basic, simple colours and very nice materials. It’s a whole world of quiet luxury and its T-shirts are addictive. The JP habit started when Tyler Brûlé (yes, that fella) lured me into an LA outpost of the brand when we were visiting our bureau in the city. But my stern advice to you is to stay away, because those T-shirts are a gateway purchase and soon you’ll be selling off your family’s assets to fund your habit. But I was hot and they had air-conditioning and a good sales assistant (yes you, Hassan) – really, I didn’t stand a chance.
Next thing I knew, I’d bought a pair of corduroy trousers. Grey.
Back in London I took them to the tailor next to Monocle for reconstructive surgery; when you are officially 5ft 9in (that’s 175cm) there’s always an acreage of trouser leg that needs removing to shorten your purchase to a less-comedic length. Indeed there’s usually enough material chopped off to get a little jacket made for my dog – and a matching bonnet too.
The part I haven’t revealed is that the trousers have a sort of stretchy fabric and drawstring waistband; no belt required. I wore them for the first time on Monday. It’s Friday as I type this and they are back on again – five days in a row. And I have to agree that, genetically, they are a close relative of the grey sweatpant (Darwin would see the evolutionary arc at play).
Not only am I effectively wearing sweatpants to the office but they fall into a concerning category of clothing that my mother would have called “forgiving”. These are clothes that don’t give you a bear hug if you dip into the breadbasket or strain at the buttons when you decide to have the tiramisu after all. They are forgiving of your dietary waywardness.
Is this my future? Our future? Stretch fabrics and slippers in the office? You may scoff but some of our best luxury brands are making a fortune from selling mules that are just leather versions of a hotel slipper. Shoe brand Allbirds is flourishing by offering men footwear that’s basically a slipper with laces. And on the trouser front, stretchy drawstring strides are definitely having a moment – they are everywhere. There’s a company called L’Estrange London that’s bombarding Instagram with The 24 Trouser (“a transitional pant”); there are brands pushing “technical pants” and “all-day pants” too. Maybe there’s room for some “forgiveness pants” one day?
For men, dressing for work has changed at an extraordinary pace in Europe and the US; we unpack the topic in The Entrepreneurs, our new magazine spinoff from our hit business podcast. Twenty years ago, working on a newspaper, I wore a suit most days. I still dress up if I am giving a talk or heading to, say, an embassy shindig. But otherwise it’s a jacket, trousers and shirt combination. It’s all up for grabs in the footwear stakes though: I might wear a brogue or a pair of New Balance.
Even so, on the trouser issue, I am going to try to be vigilant. I have promised myself that there will be no repeat of this behaviour. It was a silly misadventure. And under no circumstances will I enter a slipper shop. If I do, it’s game over.