Opinion / Jamie Waters
Rewriting the resale rulebook
The luxury industry is built on being aspirational and exclusive. So it’s surprising that the luxury-clothing resale and rental markets are booming; the predominantly online resale market is expected to more than double in size to €15bn in the next three years.
Most intriguing is what this movement says about our shifting views on high-end fashion: namely, that items don’t have to be new to be covetable. Vintage shops have existed for years but trailblazing resale and rental companies such as The RealReal and Rent The Runway aren’t trading nostalgic 1980s gems: their remit is almost-new designer pieces. It would have been unfathomable, even a decade ago, to grow multimillion-dollar businesses by selling pre-worn dresses and boots.
So what’s behind our softening stance on secondhand? For a start, younger customers have grown accustomed to a borrower culture; we regularly use the likes of Uber, Spotify and Airbnb. And then there’s that “s” word: sustainability. Instead of being associated with pejorative hippie-dippy vibes, reusing, repurposing and recycling have become ingrained in mainstream thinking as important, attractive assets. So resourcefulness is celebrated, wastefulness is passé and secondhand has a new sheen.