Opinion / Jamie Waters
Gastronomy begins at home
Last week a friend who recently moved to Copenhagen told me that he doesn’t think there’s a particularly good food culture in the Danish capital. I was shocked. What about Noma, foraging, smørrebrød and all the brilliant bakeries? Yes, he conceded, you can go out and eat very well but there’s a dearth of good supermarkets or corner shops stocked with quality produce – so it’s tough to feel inspired when it comes to cooking at home. Despite the relatively recent Nordic food revolution led by René Redzepi (who founded Noma in 2003), it seems that the culture of eating well is still working its way down to grassroots cooking in Copenhagen.
When we think of a “foodie city”, it tends to be a place with an abundance of glamorous restaurants and slick cafés. But what about the other aspect of eating – the part that pays less attention to Michelin stars and more to what is being cooked inside homes? By this metric any Italian city excels, as do many in France. Australia does pretty well too. But how does a place become a hub for stellar home cooking? Perhaps a series of accessible cookbooks that go viral would offer a spark. However, as I’m sure any good cook would tell you (and I say this as someone who’s anything but), it has to start with inspiring ingredients and good local markets. A great supermarket chain focused on fresh produce can do wonders. I’m working on my new business pitch – and planning a move to Denmark.