Opinion / Alexei Korolyov
Mountain rescue
At Stuhleck, a popular ski resort some 100km south of Vienna, there’s a flurry of activity as lifts are tested and slopes groomed. But there are no skiers around, except for one or two trespassers who I spot after accepting the offer to inspect the cordoned-off reaches of the mountain on a snowmobile (this feels a bit like starring in my own movie).
The country’s skiers will soon be on their way. In a rare move, Austria went against the spirit of European solidarity when it decided to open its pistes on 24 December, in time for Christmas and New Year. Germany, France and Italy have all forbidden winter sports over the holidays for fear that it would push up coronavirus infections. Vienna did make some concessions to its neighbours by introducing a new quarantine requirement for the vast majority of people making a cross-border trip, effectively leaving Austrians as the only eligible customers. But it’s still welcome news, says the Stuhleck resorts’ general manager Fabrice Girardoni. “We’re going to lose at least 30 per cent of our business – people coming from abroad – but we’re still happy that we’re allowed to work.”
While the slopes will open, other aspects of the Austrian economy will not: restaurants and hotels remain shut until at least 6 January, throwing up new challenges for Girardoni and his 140-strong team. “People will only be able to come here for a day and they won’t have anywhere indoors to warm themselves up,” he says. “They’ll have to eat their food outside. What about people with children? It’s kind of crazy.” The country’s other favourite winter pastimes – opera and attending balls – have also been banned for the time being. The downhill run will go some way towards bringing holiday cheer to this ski-happy nation.
Alexei Korolyov is Monocle's Vienna correspondent.