Opinion / Nolan Giles
Wall accounts
It’s always disappointing to see great neighbourhoods and beautiful architecture covered in graffiti. For me, it has always seemed to be mostly reckless vandalism that adds nothing to the urban fabric. I’m also sceptical when I hear the term “street art” being thrown around, whether it is by those actively vandalising private property under this moniker or when the phrase is used by developers as a concept in place-making schemes to provide some sort of urban grit or edge.
But I am learning that not all street art is bad. On a recent trip to São Paulo I was able to see how, when applied correctly, it can actually enliven and improve the urban environment. Of course, this is a truly unique metropolis: a seemingly endless sprawl of concrete, with high-rise buildings – some beautiful modernist marvels; many mundane, characterless old blocks – cascading off in every direction.
The worst of the stock features what locals call empena cega (“blind walls”): massive, sheer, windowless concrete façades. Maybe at one time or another these walls were going to connect to a forthcoming high-rise building but this never erected and they stand forlorn, dirty and devoid of any character. Still, in São Paulo’s downtown neighbourhoods, you can spot another kind of empena cega – one that features the biggest spray-painted murals I’ve ever seen, executed with precision and beauty across these humongous surfaces.
Funded by the city and employing many a muralist – of a kind once outlawed as vandals – districts on the up and those still with a little way to go have been transformed into open-air galleries in a meaningful manner. Street art in São Paulo is raising a smile, while helping to raise standards of living in developing neighbourhoods. It has also taught me to be less narrow-minded.