Opinion / Sophie Grove
Raising the stakes
France’s bakers, millers and even the country’s president, Emmanuel Macron, have long argued for the baguette to be included on Unesco’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. They finally got their wish last week when the French staple made it into the UN agency’s selection, alongside Lipizzan horse breeding and Slovenian beekeeping. While that might sound like an achievement, it also reflects the endangered status of the baguette. Though trips to the boulangerie to buy these crusty sticks remain a central part of French life, their popularity has declined in recent years. Indeed, France’s bread consumption has decreased by almost a quarter over the past 10 years, according to the Observatoire du Pain (“Bread Observatory”).
Bread in France is a good barometer of society and, in effect, the crusty French baguette is being pulled apart from both ends. On one side are supermarkets that continue to offer cheaper bread over the counter in out-of-town megastores that have long been a thorn in the side of independent shops selling more expensive pain tradition. Big farms and giant mills have also been on the rise for many years at the expense of smaller specialist outfits. At the other end of the tussle are the gluten-free and sourdough contingents who are eschewing the baguette altogether.
Yet the reality that the country even has an Observatoire du Pain speaks volumes. Whichever way you slice it, good bread is still a matter of national pride and, unlike in other countries, a preoccupation for many (a popular television show called La Meilleure Boulangerie de France, or “The Best Boulangerie in France”, will return for its 10th season in 2023). Twelve million French people still buy bread every day; perhaps the baguette’s inclusion on Unesco’s list will help to regenerate its quality and turn the tide of low-quality flour. In the meantime, I will raise a glass to the UN agency’s judicious decision and dream about the bready moments that defined my three years of living in Paris: those spontaneous baguette-and-wine picnics; the delight of finding good bread in a tiny village in the middle of Normandy; eating the perfect jambon-beurre. I’m suddenly feeling hungry. Is it lunchtime yet?
Sophie Grove is an executive editor of Monocle and editor of its sister publication ‘Konfekt’.