The Faster Lane / Tyler Brûlé
Plane sailing
First, a quick apology while you munch on your muesli this Sunday morning. Last week I said that we would announce the winners of our Monocle Weekend Edition Sunday quiz today but, due to an overwhelming response and too many damn fine answers, it has taken our panel of judges and auditors a bit longer to get through all of the correspondence. We’re going to push things back: all three winners will hear from us by midweek and, hopefully, join us bright and early for Monocle on Sunday seven days from now. In the meantime, let’s head to the Basque region of Spain, Munich, seat 22K on a Cathay Pacific A350 and do a speedy spin around Hong Kong.
1
I’m rather late to the party with this one and I’m not quite sure what has taken me so long but the week started with quick visits to Bilbao and San Sebastian. Wow! Wow! Wow! From the Santiago Calatrava-designed airport in Bilbao and delicious pintxos at every turn to finely edited homeware shops and pockets of solid 1960s typography across shopfronts, it’s all good. As I was booked to do a speech and had to scamper onwards, there wasn’t much time to take everything in. I did, however, move at a considerable clip and have already decided that the area will be part of the mega Europe roadtrip next summer once that new Toyota Land Cruiser finally arrives. Unlike any other European country, there’s something about the scale and approach to planning in Spain that imbues its cities with a certain confidence and stature. San Sebastian could be a bit sleepy in late October but it has just enough people and commerce to create a rush around 09.00 and give the centre a sense of purpose and industry. So too Bilbao. And, speaking of industry, you can tell that this is a region that makes things, where families who own factories have deep pockets. If manufacturing continues to return to Europe, things will only move upwards for this stretch of the continent’s Atlantic coast. For the moment, San Sebastian is free from luxury-goods shops but I wouldn’t be surprised if we soon witness the whole place shift up a gear with retail and hotels to match the knock-out culinary scene.
2
It’s Wednesday afternoon and I’m with Mats, my friends Tommy and Tara, and some other friends of theirs from Gstaad. We have all gathered at Schumann’s Tagesbar in Munich to congratulate Tara on the opening of the new Rosewood Hotel around the corner – a project that has taken more than five years to complete. In a couple of hours a ribbon will be cut, the doors will be thrown open and the Bavarian capital will have a new property to give some of the established hotels a bit of competition. Transformations of listed structures in German cities are never easy and when the project is a five-star hotel with all the demands of health, safety, the environment and ever-demanding guests, it gets even trickier. Having checked in for two nights, I can say that they pulled it off. The rooms are perfectly lit, the food is on point and the spa is wrapped in the most lush yet earthy-green tiles. If you’re heading to the Munich Security Conference this winter, you have a new address.
3
It’s Thursday afternoon and I’m on the Cathay Pacific flight to Hong Kong. Do I work on some proposals? Try a film? Or even three? Cathay Pacific has done a seriously good job with its in-flight entertainment line-up and there’s much I want to watch in the section devoted to European films. After a few emails and a quick bite, I settle on November. Amazing! I don’t think that I would have found this had I searched for it at home and if you’re looking for something to keep you on the edge of your seat this Sunday evening, spend a couple of hours with this French thriller based on the five days of investigations during the Paris terror attacks in 2015.
4
It’s Friday evening and I’m with my colleagues Mikey, Harry and Jojo. We’re in the Lobster Bar at the Island Shangri-La. There are bunches of bankers smoking outdoors, minstrels and Alice in Wonderland characters in costume. All around there are Halloween-themed canapés and there’s definitely a whiff of decadence. The city feels good.
5
Hong Kong’s Pedder Building is going through a serious transformation so, just before closing, I take the lift up the fifth floor to see the new little oasis or gentleman anchored by The Armoury. It’s woody, brassy, warm and the right size for modern retail. It smells box-fresh. It looks it too. I send a note to my colleague, James, to ensure that we cover it in detail in our forthcoming special on Hong Kong. It’s my fifth trip here this year and, while it has been on the sleepy side, I get the sense that it’s starting to shift up a gear. Finally.