Monocle Weekend
Edition: Sunday

After warming ourselves in an unconventional Finnish brasserie serving fresh takes on Nordic dishes, we bed down in a New York hotel inspired by the grandeur of the Italian palazzo, head to the Bavarian Alps with Austrian fashion entrepreneur Sebastian Proft and whip up a Sicilian cannoli. Plus, a Ghanaian-Scottish architect shares her prized hosting tips. Getting us into gear, though, is Tyler Brûlé.

Vroooommm…
From time to time I get stopped in an airport concourse, a hotel lobby or a buzzy restaurant by a Monocle reader or listener. “Excuse me,” they start, “are you Tyler?” In 99 per cent of such encounters they offer a kind word of thanks for all that we do or they mention an email that I responded to 12 years ago requesting travel tips to Kyushu and how surprised they were that I responded, or how they admire me for refraining from being a slave to social media. As for the one per cent, they usually have a bit of constructive criticism about the quality of coffee in Zürich versus London or how they wish that we could use AI to ensure that their subscription would show up wherever they happen to be travelling during a given month.

Overall these exchanges are always rewarding and instructive but over the past two weeks there’s been an uptick in the number of times that I’ve been stopped in the street with a rather different opening line: “So how is it?” The enquirer is always male, somewhere north of 35 and the question is accompanied by a grin and glance up and down, and left to right. Next, they ask: “So, are you happy?” As openers from total strangers go, they’re rather curious and personal questions but I get where these gentlemen are coming from so I very happily engage and indulge. Now you might be thinking that these chaps are all sizing me up in my lovely new jacket from A Presse in Tokyo – but only the keenest eye would recognise where it’s from and a little stroke of the fine cloth would be required to properly nail its provenance. While the object in question is very much “Made in Japan”, in this instance it comes with four wheels, five doors, a chocolate-brown leather interior and has attracted more positive nods, thumbs up and quiet applause than anything I’ve ever owned. Yes, dear reader, my Land Cruiser has finally arrived, is an absolute delight to drive and has already made its Alpine debut last Sunday as it growled up the Julier Pass to St Moritz.

As more of these vehicles make their way onto the world’s highways and trails I’m sure the admiring glances will calm. But as only a couple of hundred were released in Mitteleuropa, it’s a rather rare beast on Swiss roads. Having been a G-Wagon owner, this is a much smoother, less obvious option if you’re in need of something to get you over mountains and across the continent. For shorter jaunts, the little olive Suzuki Jimny is still the best urban option.

Oh la la la…
Monocle’s staff Christmas party (the London edition) was perhaps the best yet with the Midori House dancefloor packed from 22.00 till 03.00 and proper recovery aids supplied for all staff the next morning. There were many songs that helped pack the parquet but Lisa’s “Moonlit Floor”, as recommended by our Fernando Augusto Pacheco a few weeks ago, is surely the song to spin this Christmas season.

Ho, ho, ho…
And speaking of Midori House and Christmas, here are a few shots from day one of our buzzy market. If you’re only catching this now and inbound or in London, then you can still catch the market all day today at 1 Dorset Street in Marylebone. The usual, trusty crew is on hand – including Nancy from Farmers’ (all the way up from Wales), reindeer from Lapland via the home counties and, of course, Santa from Finland. Please swing by and we’ll sign our new travel guide, Greece: The Monocle Handbook, or you can pick up the latest issue of Konfekt and even a tote bag if you wisely choose to subscribe.

When it’s cold and dark in the northern hemisphere, nothing lifts your spirits quite like a hearty meal at a cosy restaurant (writes Petri Burtsoff). You’ll find Teller in Helsinki’s Töölö neighbourhood, a bustling hub for artists and writers. Located in a century-old landmark building, the restaurant has elegant interiors that blend dark-green hues and chestnut surfaces with art deco elements inspired by New York’s restaurant scene. “This blend of old and new also characterises our menu,” says co-owner and head chef Teemu Laurell. “We offer classic flavours and dishes but infuse them with surprising elements.”

A case in point is Teller’s parsley and garlic pasta, which is served with fried escargots, or its much-loved brioches, glazed with fennel bloom and syrup. As for drinks, you can order from an impressive cocktail list featuring the jalapeño daiquiri, or select a wine from Bulgaria, Austria or Australia. In a thoughtful touch, Teller provides diners with postcards and promises to send them via post to their loved ones, whether near or far.
ravintolateller.fi

In 2012, Sebastian Proft gave up his career in banking to become a fashion entrepreneur in his native Austria (writes Anton Preuss). Proft and his wife, Kathrin, have since become the owners of multiple top brands including Tyrolean felt and knitwear label Stapf, tailoring company Dollinger, Tracht manufacturer Feli & Hans and Dutch denimwear specialists Kings of Indigo. Here, Proft tells us about his Christmas feast of venison, his penchant for Pilates and Frank Sinatra’s festive crooning.

Where will we find you this weekend?
In Berchtesgaden in the Bavarian Alps. It’s my home and one of the most stunning corners of the world.

How do you like to begin a Sunday – a gentle start or a jolt?
Gentle. But I’m up early, baking bread and tackling a bit of work before the house comes alive. Life with three daughters is a combination of negotiation and noise, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.

What’s for breakfast?
Home-baked bread. Add some local cheese, spreads and vegetables, and voilà, it’s a feast. Breakfast is my favourite meal of the day because it is quiet and delicious, and makes me feel as though I’ve already achieved something before the day has even begun.

Walk the dog or downward dog?
Neither but I make time for Pilates. Running takes its toll and Pilates is my secret weapon for staying injury-free. It’s not glamorous but it works.

Lunch in or out?
In the fashion industry, lunch is aspirational – something that you read about but rarely get to experience. On the rare occasion that I have time, it’s simple, fresh and paired with half-baked ideas scribbled on a napkin.

A Sunday culture must?
Creativity needs downtime and that’s what Sundays are for.

Which table will you be booking this winter?
A long, wooden table at home, where I’ll be surrounded by family and friends. For me, it’s all about warmth, laughter and maybe a slightly chaotic serving of food.

What’s on the menu this Christmas?
Venison from the local woods, paired with hearty, seasonal vegetables such as roasted cauliflower. It’s my one exception to my vegetarianism – a nod to tradition and sustainability. The meal feels as grounded as the forest that it comes from.

Your festive tipple of choice?
A glass of spiced Glühwein. It’s festive, comforting and makes the kitchen smell amazing. For something lighter, I might go for a herbal sparkling drink – it’s a good balance after the venison.

News or no news?
News – but I curate it carefully. I stick to The Economist and The New York Times podcasts for intelligent insights without the doom scrolling.

A Sunday soundtrack?
Daft Punk. “Lose Yourself to Dance” is a favourite. Nothing beats a bit of funky electronic energy. During the holidays, though, I might mix in some Frank Sinatra or classic carols to keep things festive.

To hear from more plucky entrepreneurs and see which businesses we have our eye on for 2025, pick up a copy of‘The Entrepreneurs’, featuring our Austria survey. You’ll find it on all good newsstands now.

This week, Monocle’s Japanese recipe writer Aya Nishimura whips up some Sicilian cannoli shells filled with pistachio cream.

Makes 12

Equipment
Piping bag 12 cannoli moulds

Ingredients

For the cannoli shells:

180g plain flour
2 tsps caster sugar
¼ tsp salt
30g unsalted butter, cold and cubed
1 medium egg, separated
50ml marsala wine
Vegetable oil (for frying)

For the pistachio filling:

500g ricotta, strained for 1 hour
60g icing sugar
8 tbsps pistachio butter
20g pistachios, roughly chopped
Icing sugar (for dusting)

Method

1
Start with the cannoli dough. Mix the flour, sugar and salt in a bowl. Rub in the butter until combined. Mix the egg yolk and marsala wine in another bowl, then add to the flour mixture and combine to form a dough. Knead the dough on a floured surface until smooth. If the dough is still sticky, add more flour. Wrap in cling film and allow to rest for 30 minutes.

2
Now move on to the pistachio filling. Mix the ricotta, icing sugar and pistachio butter. Place in a piping bag and refrigerate.

3
To shape the cannoli, roll the dough to a thickness of 1mm and cut into 11cm circles. Wrap around the cannoli moulds and seal with egg white.

4
Heat the oil to 160C. Fry the cannoli for a couple of minutes until golden. Remove the moulds, then fry for a further 30 seconds and leave to cool.

5
When the cannoli are ready to serve, pipe the filling into the shells (don’t do this too far ahead of time or the pastry might become soggy). Dip the ends in the chopped pistachios and dust with the icing sugar.

In an age of beige and grey, few contemporary interiors can match the boldness of mid-century Italian design – but a gem occasionally emerges to evoke that lost sense of grandeur (writes Florian Siebeck). One such place is The Manner, the latest addition to New York’s hotel scene. For the project, Verena Haller, the group’s chief design officer, tapped Milan-based Hannes Peer, renowned for his sumptuous residential projects that epitomise Italian grandezza.

Tucked away on Thompson Street in Soho, the entrance sets the tone with a canopy reminiscent of Piero Portaluppi’s iconic Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan. The lobby is a striking tableau of marble, brass, leather and terracotta that nods to some of the Italian city’s most opulent entryways. The rooms of this 97-key hotel feature glossy lacquered headboards, bespoke textiles and floor-to-ceiling mirrors. Most of the furniture was custom designed, including pieces by Peer.

Mornings at The Manner bring a spread of pastries and international newspapers, while a well-curated cocktail cabinet will see you through aperitivo hour. For dinner, there’s The Otter, a seafood restaurant with dramatic murals, and for a nightcap, pop into Sloane’s, a speakeasy slinging vintage spirits. From next spring, a rooftop space will top off this haven with stunning views of the Manhattan skyline.
themanner.com

For more new openings that you’ll want to put on your Christmas list, pick up a copy of Monocle’s bumperDecember/January issue, on newsstands now.

When Mumbai-based car company Premier Automobiles licensed the Fiat 1100 in 1964, its version of the vehicle, the Premier Padmini, became a popular choice for cabbies. The distinctive taxi became affectionately known as the kaali-peeli (“black and yellow”), in reference to its colour scheme. A defining feature of Mumbai’s urban fabric, these iconic vehicles were finally phased out last year by new regulations on old cars.

UK restaurant group Dishoom has concocted a delicious tribute to the iconic cab, the Premier Padmini negroni, which combines Indian cocoa and pears with Italy’s treasured bitter Campari, Vermouth Rosso and London Dry Gin. Pour it on the rocks, garnish with a morsel of dark chocolate and toast to the cultural cornerstones that help to make our cities special.
dishoom.com

There’s an art to a well-executed soirée. From the cutlery and playlist to the lighting and pre-dinner tipple, every detail will affect the outcome. This week in our hospitality series, we’re guests of Ghanaian-Scottish architect and author Lesley Lokko, who whips up some jollof rice served on a vibrant tablecloth.

Quirky cutlery or classic models?
I go for classics. My favourite is an old-ish set from Australian brand Country Road, which I bought in Johannesburg in about 2008 and still use. Think brushed stainless steel, elegant curves and lovely handles.

One dish that you like to make from scratch?
A Ghanaian staple, jollof rice.

A minimalist table-scape or all the frills?
Minimalist, though it depends on the setting. At home in Accra, table settings tend to be more colourful and I take my cue from the tablecloth. I have dozens of wax-print cloths – the more vibrant the colours and prints, the better.

Where would you book if you could host anywhere?
I recently had a meal at Heron in Leith, Edinburgh. It was beyond divine.

What three rules would you enforce?
Talk to everyone, no huddling and no grandstanding. I’d much rather hear about challenges than successes. And no Donald Trump, not even in whispers.

For more hosting tips, top tables and seasonal shopping guides, pick up a copy of Monocle’s bumperDecember/January issue, on newsstands now. Or better still,subscribeto always have your finger on the pulse. Have a super Sunday.