The Monocle Minute

As record numbers of visitors piled into Japan this year, endless stories of overcrowding, littering and general bad behaviour have filled newspapers and social-media feeds. One Chilean gymnast thought it would be a good idea to use the gate of a sacred shrine as a horizontal bar, while another bright spark carved his family’s initials into the pristine cedar of the majestic Meiji Shrine in Tokyo. Identifying examples of kanko kogai (tourism pollution) is the easy part, tackling the problem is more challenging. One thing is clear – it’s starting to affect visitors too.

A recent survey revealed that 30 per cent of foreign tourists had experienced issues related to overtourism and 60 per cent of them were happy to pay more to lessen congestion and look after Japan’s cultural heritage. Sensible authorities are taking note: the price of the tourist-only Japan Rail Pass (which was unnecessarily cheap, particularly with a rock-bottom yen) has been doubled. Himeji Castle will soon be hiking entry prices for non-Himeji residents to help pay for the upkeep. The cost of climbing Mount Fuji will be raised for everyone next summer. Curiously, in spite of the overflowing buses and booked-out restaurants, tourists still don’t go to less-travelled parts of the country.

Most visitors follow a well-trodden circuit that is likely to include Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto and perhaps Naoshima, an island in the Seto Inland Sea famed for its beautiful art museums. These are all places worthy of a visit but there is so much more to see. In 2025, tourists should be looking at lesser-visited cities such as Yamagata in the north or Hagi in the far west, both boasting great food and distinctive crafts. The government’s Nipponia project offers a quick route to regional Japan with hotel stays in historic buildings that visitors might never have found.

By the end of 2024, Japan is expecting to receive a record-breaking 35 million visitors but the aim is for 60 million a year. The only way to make this sustainable for residents and visitors alike is to divert tourists from the same few destinations.

Fiona Wilson is Monocle’s Tokyo bureau chief and senior Asia editor. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.

Christmas is the busiest time of year at Colford. Founded in 2023 by Nathan Cole and Imogen Beresford, the London-based company sends out more than 5,000 intricately wrapped presents over the festive season. Catering to private and corporate clients including Hermès, Cartier and Soho House, Colford takes care of the entire gifting process, from selecting envelopes and commissioning calligraphy to packaging and delivery.

“Luxury clients are always looking for new ways to elevate their brand,” says Cole. “They value our knowledge and guidance.” The couple created Colford to facilitate a more considered approach to gifting, free from the last-minute rush. “We love the concept of a slower Christmas, especially one without excessive plastic wrapping paper,” says Beresford. Colford takes pride in sourcing unusual materials and gifts, and works with more than 200 designers and makers. Creating a link between craftspeople and clients is important to Cole and Beresford, who insist that gifting excellence doesn’t have to end with the festive season.

For more on Colford, pick up a copy of Monocle’sDecember/January issue, which is out now.

In a year when Nutella has been celebrating its 60th anniversary as one of Italy’s most successful exports, an Algerian upstart has been stealing the thunder of Ferrero Group’s famous chocolate-hazelnut spread. For sweet-toothed aficionados in France, Belgium and the Arab world, 2024 was the year of El Mordjene, a creamy chocolate-and-hazelnut spread made by family-owned company Cebon. The spread became a viral hit among Francophone internet users, which led to an explosion in popularity.

But, as Cebon shifted gears to meet demand, there was a setback: French customs officials began detaining pallets of El Mordjene because Algeria does not meet EU conditions for importing dairy products intended for human consumption. The press cried foul in Algeria, with some inaccurately claiming that the sought-after spread had been banned because it threatened to take Nutella’s crown. Despite the ban, El Mordjene’s success has provided an image boost for Algerian produce. Meanwhile, French confiseurs and recipe websites are competing to create a worthy replica.

Most companies marketing down-insulated products have long since offshored. But Seattle-based brand Crescent Down Works, which was founded 50 years ago by Anne Michelson, believes that keeping the feathers close to the roost is good for business. “Manufacturing is complicated,” says production manager Samantha Pak. “The nearer you can be to it all, the better: there’s less room for error.” Since Japanese and Italian buyers discovered Michelson’s work in the 1980s, it has become a staple of Shinjuku boutiques and heritage shops.

The company now produces a maximum of 5,000 timeless pieces every year. Devoted fans include Jonah Hill and Sofia Coppola. One of Lady Gaga’s friends once ordered a gift for the singer and actor, whose custom design still hangs from a rack of patterns. Ever low-key, the brand only started affixing logo snaps on its products two years ago. “When is it time to break out of our box and when is it time to double down?” asks Pak. For Crescent Down Works, one thing has always been clear: stitching and stuffing in its Seattle factory is a smart bet.

For more on Crescent Down Works and other winter-themed stories, pick up a copy of‘Alpino’, which is on sale now.

Tuomaan Markkinat brings more than 100 vendors to Helsinki’s picturesque Senate Square every year, making it Finland’s largest Christmas market. Visitor numbers have ballooned in recent years and clocked in at 350,000 in 2023. Here, Vanhala shares some insights into what makes a successful and cheerful event.

What are the challenges of setting up a Christmas market?
We have to work in wintry conditions in the centre of the city. Many of our contractors start out full of confidence, saying that they have experience working at festivals and similar big events. But it’s always surprising how much endurance you need. You need to keep shovelling snow. Temperatures can drop to minus 30C, so you have to make sure that all vendors with liquids in glass jars have emptied their stands for the night. The market runs for three weeks and draws up to 37,000 visitors a day, so there’s room for a lot to happen.

Tuomaan Markkinat has been praised for its improved food offering. What’s behind the change?
I visit all kinds of events around Helsinki to meet restaurateurs. I explain what we are looking for and what sells. Last year one vendor sold 10,000 portions of miso-and-caramel flavoured rice porridge. The product needs to feel current.

Which is the most important stand at a Christmas market?
The security cabin. Just kidding! All of the stalls are important. We work hard to have a balanced overall offering, where there aren’t, say, 15 honey producers in a row – though we could definitely find that many. We create an environment where every vendor has a chance to sell enough of their product.

For our full interview with Saara Vanhala, look for the dedicated Christmas-market section on our seasonal newspaper,‘Alpino’, which is out now.

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