The Entrepreneurs

Interview: Going undercover with Dougan Clarke, CEO of parasol-maker Tuuci

If you have ever sought shade on a veranda or a windy shoreline, there’s a good chance that you have sheltered beneath a Tuuci. The Ultimate Umbrella Co Incorporated (or Tuuci for short) was founded by entrepreneur Dougan Clarke in 1997 and has since ballooned into a paragon of parasol production, with outposts in Florida, the Netherlands and Vietnam. Its founder’s story, meanwhile, is a masterclass in doing what you know best.

“After flunking out of college, I took a job selling patio furniture,” says Clarke, from Tuuci’s Miami HQ. “I noticed that the umbrellas that we were selling would fly away or would break and were very hard to repair.” Having grown up around boats and working summer jobs in a boat-repair yard, Clarke applied his knowledge of rigging topsails to create umbrellas that would last. “The thinking was that if we could build an umbrella that was tough enough to go on a boat, it would have a long and serviceable life in a hotel or in somebody’s backyard.”

If you have ever sought shade on a veranda or a windy shoreline, there’s a good chance that you have sheltered beneath a Tuuci. The Ultimate Umbrella Co Incorporated (or Tuuci for short) was founded by entrepreneur Dougan Clarke in 1997 and has since ballooned into a paragon of parasol production, with outposts in Florida, the Netherlands and Vietnam. Its founder’s story, meanwhile, is a masterclass in doing what you know best.

“After flunking out of college, I took a job selling patio furniture,” says Clarke, from Tuuci’s Miami HQ. “I noticed that the umbrellas that we were selling would fly away or would break and were very hard to repair.” Having grown up around boats and working summer jobs in a boat-repair yard, Clarke applied his knowledge of rigging topsails to create umbrellas that would last. “The thinking was that if we could build an umbrella that was tough enough to go on a boat, it would have a long and serviceable life in a hotel or in somebody’s backyard.”

Most of Tuuci’s parasols and its newer range of cabanas are made in Miami, where the firm employs 500 people, including “shade gurus” who keep the designs and silhouettes looking sharp. Clarke is certainly bullish about the brolly. “The sun is always shining somewhere,” he says. “And we’re happy to bring a little shade.”

What time are you at your desk?
As early as possible – 07.00 or so. I find that I learn more about this company early in the day or in the later hours.

What’s the best way to prepare for leadership? On the job or an MBA?
I’m not an MBA guy and didn’t excel in that world. The most powerful thing to look for in people is entrepreneurial spirit – being able to spot opportunities and capitalise on them.

Is it better to be liked or respected?
Both. That said, you’re not out to be liked but people appreciate leadership that is fair.

Do you read management books?
No, but I read a lot of magazines and I’m across the news.

What does your support team look like?
My journey as a leader has been about learning how to be more process-driven and to get people around me to take on responsibilities. You can’t do everything – no one can. I have a PA whom three or four of us at the top of the company share; I also have a clutch of right-hand people.

What technology do you carry on trips?
I have my iPhone and a back-up because I’m often near the water and these phones too often end up going for a dip. I also bring along a laptop and an iPad for visuals in meetings.

Who should make the decisions?
The CEO can’t be making every decision. They need to put the right people in the right positions to make things happen. It’s down to the leader of each organisation to recognise that talent.
tuuci.com

The top 9 smartest workplace furniture pieces designed for comfort and collaboration

Offices should be comfortable and inspiring, allowing for moments of both individual focus and group collaboration. As such, they need to be fitted out with furniture that facilitates this, from smart industrial shelving and ergonomic seating to chic planters and even exercise equipment. By doing so, companies can help everyone from ceos to interns stay on top of their game. Here, we survey the smartest pieces. — L

To celebrate his love of adventure, Matt Hranek, founder and editor of men’s magazine Wm Brown, created a bar trolley in partnership with Another Country – a UK furniture firm that draws inspiration from the Shaker movement, Scandinavian aesthetics and Japanese woodwork. Made from oak-veneered plywood, it’s ideal for serving a midweek apéritif.
anothercountry.com

Lightness of touch characterises the design of the mdl System, a furniture collection that features desks and workstations in various shapes and sizes. Its fastening system allows it to be positioned as required, making it useful for workspaces where seating layouts might shift from project to project. Cable-management accessories, shelves and dividing panels complement this desk, which perches on industrial aluminium legs.
unifor.it

This ash planter is suitable for almost any location, from outdoor terraces to conference rooms. The self-watering tub will keep plants happy with minimal human input.
squarely-copenhagen.com

Designed by Gianfranco Frattini in 1970, this luminaire is named after the Italian for a type of poisonous snake: asp. It can be twisted to create direct light for working and reading or turned towards the wall for a gentler glow.
gubi.com

This chic sofa by GamFratesi has a slender yet sturdy tubular construction that supports plump down cushions and elegantly shaped armrests. The soft contours and generous proportions make this a welcome addition to any waiting room. Complement it with GamFratesi’s Kite armchair, with its distinctive enveloping backrest.
porro.com

This compact radio receives FM, digital dab1 and internet stations. It’s also easy to operate, using the two knobs on the front and the neatly aligned buttons on the top.
technisat.com

A great alternative for those who can’t get out onto open water on their lunch break, Technogym’s Skillrow machine helps to build up endurance with its Aquafeel technology, which mimics the feel of actual rowing.
technogym.com

Composed of metal boxes made from perforated sheets, this modular system comes with in-built storage and can be cleverly deployed to break up an office floor plan.
formuswithlove.se

Storied Japanese furniture firm Kokuyo’s Pallo chair has short armrests, allowing the seat to be pulled close to a desk, while its rounded form keeps its footprint small. It also adjusts its locking strength to match the weight of the sitter, meaning that it won’t budge should you put on some extra kilos after a few trips to the izakaya.
kokuyo-furniture.co.jp

The late-in-life entrepreneur: How designer Fujiwo Ishimoto started afresh after retirement

For some, retirement is an opportunity to take a well-earned rest. For 83-year-old Japanese textile designer Fujiwo Ishimoto, however, it marked the moment when he decided to change the course of his life and launch a new business. After nearly five decades in Finland, much of it spent working for lifestyle brand Marimekko, Ishimoto upped sticks in 2020 and moved to Matsuyama, a city of half a million people, in Ehime prefecture on the island of Shikoku. It wasn’t far from where he had grown up. Life had come full circle.

“I always thought that I would come back to Japan,” he says. “I don’t have family in Finland. Eventually, I realised that I had nothing to keep me there.” After designing some 400 textile patterns for Marimekko, he started afresh with his own brand, Mustakivi, which means “black stone” in Finnish. He built a small studio and showroom on a sloping street leading up to a temple in the Dogo neighbourhood – the home of what is said to be the oldest hot spring in Japan. Today he spends his days there designing at a large table and exhibiting his vibrant textiles and ceramics.

“I thought about basing myself in Kyoto but it was too expensive and I didn’t know anybody there,” he says. “In Matsuyama, I’m close to Tobe, my hometown, where I can source clay for my ceramics. My sister and her family live nearby too. Plus, it’s about the same size as Helsinki so the scale feels very familiar.”

Marimekko, which was founded in Helsinki in 1951, has always had a strong audience in Japan. Ishimoto had encountered some of the best Finnish design by the likes of Kaj Franck at a department-store exhibition in Japan in 1964. He started working in graphic design and advertising but left in 1970 to travel, stopping in London, New York and Copenhagen before landing in Finland. “It was November so it was white with snow,” he says. “It rarely snows in Ehime so it was exciting.”

After a few attempts (and rejections), he was hired by Marimekko as a textile designer in 1974 and ended up staying for 32 years. In 1989 he also started working for ceramics brand Arabia, where he built up an impressive body of work with a tightly woven mix of Japanese and Finnish influences. His products and textiles have Finnish names but feature Japanese motifs drawn from nature and are suffused with the two cultures’ shared sense of practicality. Kuppi is a simple ceramic cup for everyday use that would work equally well for green tea as for coffee. The Tuuli cup borrows its design from grass swaying in the breeze. Keiryu is a vivid blue towel inspired by the flow of a mountain stream and manufactured in Imabari, the centre of Japanese towel making, which is also in Ehime.

Many of Ishimoto’s Marimekko designs seem to travel between his homeland and Europe, with influences ranging from Japanese flowers to decorations of village houses that he saw in rural Poland. Nature is still his biggest inspiration – the citrus that grew in his family home or the flowers he noticed alongside a railway track.

In Tobe, a town famous for its porcelain, Ishimoto is now working with ceramics using his own electric kiln. This past summer he covered the showroom walls with ceramic magnolia flowers and exhibited bowls whose brightly coloured hues were inspired by kamifusen, traditional Japanese paper balloons.

Mustakivi has allowed Ishimoto to revisit some of his earlier designs too. On the studio table, there’s a vase that was once rejected for being too complicated to make. A striking tenugui cotton cloth on sale in the shop is printed with an old design that was originally turned down by Marimekko. Another black-and-white cloth features a drawing of a carnation that Ishimoto used on a plate 30 years ago.

The shop is popular for its towels, tote bags, cards, ceramic tableware – made by a factory in Tobe – and cloths printed with his many designs. Despite his achievements, Ishimoto is self-deprecating and seems genuinely surprised by the level of interest in his creations. He likes to work in peace, pursuing the designs that he cares about. As for the future, he is open to offers. He says that he wants to focus more on pottery these days. “Working like this with my hands is keeping me healthy.”
mustakivi.jp

Daeyang Jamsu: The bespoke wetsuit manufacturer that’s keeping Busan’s freediving traditions afloat

Daeyang Jamsu is preserving a vital part of South Korea’s cultural heritage in a quiet corner of Busan’s Yeongdo Island. At this family-run shop, Yong Bookie and his wife, Her Mi-Ok, produce hand-cut wetsuits in their studio for the haenyeo, female freedivers who have harvested the seas for generations. The divers know that investing in tailored gear gives them the edge in the water, so they choose trusted specialists over cheaper, mass-produced alternatives.

For centuries, the haenyeo have hunted for shellfish and other sea creatures along South Korea’s coast. Historically, skills were passed down from mother to daughter but demand for such abilities has fallen; today, 90 per cent of them are aged over 60. Divers used to descend into the depths in white cotton bathing suits, using hot stones to stay warm for longer. Recognising the challenges facing these women, Bookie’s grandfather sought a solution. More than 50 years ago, he welcomed a group of Japanese wetsuit craftsmen to the island, who returned with a suitcase full of neoprene, leading to the opening of the area’s first wetsuit shop. Bookie and Mi-Ok work with three employees who specialise in carving precise lines in the rubber and stitching it together. Everything is cut by hand, leaving little waste. Whether a finger on a glove or a toe reinforcement on a boot, it’s all made to measure. “We don’t make small, medium or large,” says Mi-Ok. “Instead, we make something that fits precisely.”

The key to Daeyang Jamsu’s success is in maintaining a close relationship with the haenyeo and knowing their measurements and their wishes. Instead of online orders, divers contact the shop by phone or visit annually to buy a new suit or have adjustments made. “In the old days, divers used their suits for three years before ordering a new one,” says Bookie. “But these days they change suits every year.”

A 5mm- or 6mm-thick freediving suit typically costs 400,000 won (€270) and the team here produces more than 500 of them per year. “When I was young, many divers couldn’t pay us in money, so they paid us in seafood,” says Bookie. Fortunately, the situation has improved despite dwindling numbers of haenyeo. As one of the few remaining specialists – and with a small number of young women still keen to keep the tradition alive – business for Daeyang Jamsu looks watertight.
94 Hansarang-gil,  Yeongdo-gu, Busan

Andrew Tuck on knowing where to look for opportunity

Sand, sea and summits

If you’ve sampled the culture of Sharjah, the Abu Dhabi art scene and the sky-stroking towers of Downtown Dubai, it might be time to make the UAE a more permanent residence. Living here means hard work for many, but its inhabitants also know how to relax – often rather luxuriously – and make the most of their country’s great and diverse outdoors. What about the beguilingly beautiful, ever shifting sands of the Rub’ al Khali (“Empty Quarter”)? How about seeking cooler climes (and some headspace) in the Hajar mountains or laying low in a lesser-known cove along the shimmering coastline? Here are a few ideas for getting off the well-trodden track and discovering a better work-life balance. From the shores of Khorfakkan to desert spas and high-altitude outposts, the UAE has it all.

Mountains

The Hajar (or “rocky”) mountain range more than surpasses its simple moniker in splendour and boasts some of the highest peaks in the Arabian Peninsula. The range juts out between the eastern border of the UAE and neighbouring Oman. Jebel Jais, in the range’s northwest, within Ras Al Khaimah, is the UAE’s highest point at a whisker under 2,000 metres above sea level (which is more than double the height of the Burj Khalifa). These surprising lesser-known sierras of the nation’s eastern frontier are a far cry from life below and conceal plenty of pleasant surprises. Nestled between peaks is the seemly Hatta Terrace, a four-bedroom villa with an infinity pool that’s a show-stopping base from which to explore the area’s countless diversions, from hiking and horse-riding to kayaking on the eerily beautiful blue-green lake of Hatta Dam. Biking is also big business in the mountains and many firms, including Hubbers, offer rental bikes on which to explore its rugged trails.

Desert

To really understand the UAE requires taking the time to reckon with the seemingly endless desert that ensconces the nation’s cities. That needn’t mean mounting a camel, spending a night under the stars or “dune bashing” in an SUV (though all are options). Instead, consider how Emirati culture was forged – through hardship and with ingenuity – and how far the country has come. Some 60 years ago, it seemed inconceivable that such places might soon feature air conditioning and water, never mind a world-leading spa. Luckily, today the deserts and oases, such as Al Ain and Liwa, have more than their share of spots in which to contemplate and unwind. Even the range of accommodation demonstrates the extremes. For a project that exhibits all the profound beauty of the desert while also embracing its heritage, we suggest Al Faya Retreat, for which three 1960s single-storey stone structures – a shop, a clinic and a filling station – were transformed into a modernist outpost at the foot of Mount Alvaah, amid the reddish sands of Sharjah. Bab Al Shams is a closer-to-town alternative – and a more mainstream take on the spa concept – near Dubai’s city limits. It’s been a favourite with residents looking for an escape since it opened on the edge of Al Marmoom Desert Conservation Reserve in 2004.

Sea

The UAE has more than 700km of coastline: 90 per cent faces the Gulf, while a 70km sliver to the east is lapped by the Indian Ocean. What’s more, the sea has always connected the UAE with the world beyond it. Before the country was a centre of global trade and aviation, the Gulf was a productive fishing ground and the core of the pearl-diving industry (the tradition dates back thousands of years). In a story of decline and revival, that market was destroyed by the emergence of Japanese cultured pearls in the early 20th century. Little did the Gulf’s divers know that within a century their hunting grounds would support some of the world’s most prime real estate, boasting beach clubs, hotels and restaurants that tempt millions of visitors a year. There are diversions to tempt you too: from boat trips to night swimming and surfing, best enjoyed in the cooler months between December and March. Here are a few of our favourite places to clock off and dive in.

Eureka moments

What makes a formidable founder and where do such eminent folk find their inspiration? While you’re unlikely to meet a lazy entrepreneur, there’s no singular quality that defines success. So perhaps the best way to maximise your chance of steering a venture to prosperity is to listen to as wide a range of voices as possible. Here we present a selection of light-bulb moments that sparked into life some of our favourite brands, as told to the team at Monocle Radio’s ‘The Entrepreneurs‘.

Hit the road – you never know where it will lead.

Sweet dreams
Sameer and Neena Vaswani, co-founders, Prodigy, London

A roadtrip in Italy inspired husband and wife Sameer and Neena Vaswani to establish a plant-based chocolate brand embodying the ideals of environmental responsibility and health-consciousness.

Eureka moment:
“We were driving across Italy, stopping off at petrol stations and little shops. We wanted to buy our children snacks for the journey but couldn’t find anything that we were happy to let them put into their bodies: everything on offer contained too much sugar or too many processed ingredients – and that’s not to mention plastic pollution.

It dawned on us that we should create a business that could figure out a new way of doing things in the food industry. We are both chocoholics, so we thought, ‘OK, why don’t we start a chocolate brand that is fit for today’s world?’ That’s what consumers are looking for. We also wanted to help the next generation.

So we invented Prodigy, which seeks to reimagine the classic chocolate bars, snacks and biscuits that we all grew up with and love, making them better for both the planet and our bodies. We wanted it to cause less harm to people and communities – and, of course, to our health.”

You can find inspiration anywhere – including at the bottom of a glass.

Brewing up a storm
Hector Butler and Matt Brunault, co-founders, Shima, London

Hector Butler and Matt Brunault were living in New York when they stumbled upon a modest neighbourhood bar in Brooklyn. There the friends fell in love with saké. A few years (and several trips to Japan) later, they successfully launched Shima, the ready-to-drink canned saké that is shaking up the hard-seltzer market.

Eureka moment:
“We met in Georgetown, where we were at university together. After graduating we moved to New York. For a while we were Brooklyn clichés: earning no money and living in a sort of box apartment. Then we noticed that these craft saké breweries were popping up in the area. After just scratching the surface, we fell in love with it – the range, the choice, the depth.

Fast-forward a couple of months: I visited Matt’s apartment and saw buckets, vats and other equipment all over the place. I said, ‘What’s going on here?’ It turned out that he was brewing his own saké. Shima is our love letter to the beverage. We make canned saké spritzers; we launched three flavours about a year ago. At its heart, the brand is all about our passion for saké and making it a little more approachable for a Western audience.”

Think both local and global – and partner with people who can help your ideas soar.

Taking flight
Hanna Olzon Åkerström, co-founder and creative director, Soeder, Zürich

In 2013, multi-talented Hanna Olzon Åkerström co-founded Soeder, a Zürich-based natural soap company with a sustainability-led approach to luxury bath and body products. Åkerström’s aim was to bring a more environmentally responsible approach to the sector. The brand manages every aspect of its production process all the way to distribution and its partners include Swiss International Air Lines.

Eureka moment:
“With Swiss, we are getting to work with people who are putting faith in us and also pushing our limits a bit further and faster than we might have done otherwise. We have had many interesting conversations about where we could expand product lines and how we could change the way that Swiss works with them.

For instance, we are now introducing refills for the airline’s onboard products (we introduced refills for its lounge range a long time ago). I don’t think that there are many other airlines that reuse their lavatory bottles in this way. It’s very important to have a partner that we can grow with and that listens – and also wants to give us the chance to change things in its field.”

Amazing things happen when you put family first.

A family affair
Chitra Stern, co-founder, Martinhal Family Hotels & Resorts, Lisbon

With her husband, Roman, Chitra Stern created Martinhal Family Hotels & Resorts, which has reimagined luxury family holidays. She tells us about her latest project, Martinhal Residences.

Eureka moment:
“I’m British and Swiss, and of Indian origin. I have lived in Singapore too. We moved to Portugal in 2001. I have always been able to see things with different eyes. It comes down to the people and how open, tolerant and liberal they are. We’re not robots; we want to feel welcome – that’s one of the great things about Portugal for entrepreneurs seeking to start a business. Lisbon is well connected and good for families too.

When people start having children, they don’t suddenly stop wanting to be part of the excitement of a city. We help families to enjoy all the bustle, while providing things that make life easier for them, such as stools for children to enable them to step up to a sink and brush their teeth. We have cots, baby chairs and even a baby concierge service so that parents don’t have to lug all of their stuff. We call our front office a ‘family concierge team’ – it’s there to assist not just small children but the entire family, including grandparents.”

Trust bricks and mortar, whether you’re transforming a heritage brand…

Open for business
Alex and Mathieu Cléon, co-managers, Kleman, La Romagne

Brothers Alex and Mathieu Cléon head up French footwear brand Kleman, whose heritage goes back to 1945, when shoemaker René Cléon formed a team of apprentices and bought his first stitching and assembly machines in postwar France. The third-generation leaders recently launched Kleman’s first flagship shop in Paris’s Le Marais neighbourhood. They tell us why they prioritise investment in French manufacturing.

Eureka moment:
“Not long ago, we opened our first flagship shop in Paris. It was a significant step for us. Next, we’ll be developing our brand further while promoting the ‘Made in France’ idea worldwide. French know-how is an important part of our dna. When we entered the fashion world about seven years ago, we decided to develop new ideas while still basing it all on the brand’s heritage.

We have created new kinds of soles. Sometimes it’s not easy for a heritage brand like ours to invent novel styles. We really want to add environmentally friendly objectives to the creation of our collections too. We work only with locally sourced materials, with ‘local’ meaning European – or French in particular.”

…or you’re just starting out on your journey.

When worlds collide
Henrik Berg, founder, Morjas, Stockholm

Henrik Berg is the founder of Morjas, which creates men’s footwear and leather accessories with a timeless aesthetic and has an unusual Spanish-Swedish heritage: Berg’s grandmother was an urbane Madrileño, while his grandfather was an outdoorsman from remote Vårmland. Morjas now has a beautiful shop, Casa Morjas, in Stockholm.

Eureka moment:
“My grandfather was a charming man who enjoyed wildlife, hunting and fishing. My grandmother was used to the hectic lifestyle of Madrid and going out in high heels. But they fell in love and he convinced her to move with him to Sweden. I wanted Morjas to have that combination of opposite worlds.

Some brands that honour timeless aesthetics can become a bit boring. That’s a big no-no for us. I appreciate that they’re trying to make seasonless, trend-free products that live forever but I need some kind of edge that makes jaws drop or heads turn. Whether it’s a product or a photo shoot, we always try to make things sharper and more exciting. That’s noticeable in our use of materials, in how we work with silhouettes and content. The brand, the packaging and now the physical shop – these are all touchpoints with a customer.”

Reimagine the very fabric of your sector.

Thinking bigger
Borre Akkersdijk, co-founder, Byborre, Amsterdam

Borre Akkersdijk co-founded Dutch textile company Byborre with Arnoud Haverlag in 2015. His background as an industrial designer and passion for textiles have helped him to develop techniques for creating modular, sustainable garments that blur the boundaries between fashion, art and technology.

Eureka moment:
“I had been innovating in textiles for more than seven years, travelling the world and diving into the nitty-gritty of the industry. But when I met Arnoud in 2015, it went from me in the supply chain to us building a company. You can innovate for years with people giving you their thumbs-up, being flown around the world to give talks, while still being unable to afford your groceries. I thought, ‘How can I be working with these amazing brands but not getting paid much for it?’

That was the beginning. We created Byborre textiles and said, ‘These are things that we have designed and you can use.’ They’re good for interiors and fashion, and you can buy them, whether a small amount or 100 metres. We looked at some of the big textile companies and thought, ‘Maybe we have to step up and not be a company that just does the small, innovative things.’”

Clean up your act. Your business could go galactic.

Reaching for the stars
Linda Rosendahl Nordin, co-founder and CEO, Pure Effect, Täby

Linda Rosendahl Nordin co-founded Swedish brand Pure Effect in 2015. Its cleaning products, based on active bacterial cultures, are so stellar that they have attracted the attention of Nasa.

Eureka moment:
“A personal health crisis inspired us to start Pure Effect. We were having trouble conceiving our second child and I learned about all of these things that could affect our endocrine systems, making it harder for both animals and humans to have babies. A professor in Sweden told me that people were putting too many toxins into the ecosystem. These toxins enter our bodies through food and water – they’re everywhere – and they accumulate.

There are industrial biotech solutions that have been around for at least 20 years for professional use, a way of letting bacillus spores degrade organic matter. We thought that this could be used for household cleaning and decided to launch a version for consumers. One day I received an email from a firm working with Nasa, asking us, ‘Could you please share the evidence?’ I hope that they evaluate the technology because they obviously have a problem with laundry up in space. They need to travel light and our solution could help.”

Never be afraid to challenge preconceptions. Or traditions.

In good spirits
Annabel Thomas, founder, Nc’nean Distillery, Morvern

Annabel Thomas is the founder of organic whisky distillery Nc’nean on Scotland’s west coast. Here, Thomas reflects on her decade-long mission to change perceptions of the spirit, reach a more diverse customer base and innovate production through sustainable practices.

Eureka moment:
“We had a family dream to set up a whisky distillery on my parents’ farm, which had some old disused buildings on it. But before I quit my job in order to make this a reality, I went to do some research and said, ‘Look, I’ll write the business plan because otherwise we’re just going to talk about this and never do it.’

The first thing that I did was visit a few distilleries. What struck me was that so many of them were very traditional, doing things in the way that they had always been done – which is not always a problem in a traditional industry.

But there was no one doing anything else. In particular, I noticed that there was a lack of focus on sustainability across the sector. I realised that someone needed to do something about this. And that was the moment when Nc’nean Distillery really got going in earnest.”

No problem is too big – and starting young is an advantage.

Coming together
Namrata Sandhu, co-founder and CEO, Vaayu, Berlin

Namrata Sandhu, the woman behind innovative carbon-tracking platform Vaayu, tells us about how real-time data is empowering retailers to be more sustainable and reduce their environmental impact.

Eureka moment:
“When I was growing up in Mumbai in the 1980s and 1990s, it was very polluted: the beaches were dirty, the city was dirty. My friends and I thought, ‘This isn’t OK – we need to do more.’ So we started a kind of charity when we were 13 and set up the city’s first recycling programme. Much later, after I had been working in the climate and sustainability field for a long time, I noticed that a lot of retailers were keen to do better and wanted to know how they could make a positive impact. But nobody had the data; everyone was doing this individually. I thought, ‘Can we do it differently? Can we scale it? And can we help people effect that level of change and reduce their carbon footprint?’

In a way it was very strange because I had been doing this for such a long time. But there was a moment when it all clicked and I knew that I needed to solve this, by connecting with retailers and brands, and helping them to track and cut their carbon emissions.”

Broaden your horizons and learn from real nomads (not the digital variety).

Out of tradition
Khulan Davaadorj, founder, Lhamour, Ulaanbaatar

Khulan Davaadorj is the founder, director and chief technologist of Mongolian organic-skincare brand Lhamour.

Eureka moment:
“I did my master’s degree at Columbia University in renewable energy, management and policy. After living abroad all my life, I returned to Mongolia to work for the country’s first wind farm. The extreme weather here affected me so badly that I developed allergies. Doctors suggested that I should live more healthily and use natural products, especially for skincare. So that was the starting point. Then I looked around and couldn’t find anything here. I thought, ‘Why is nobody making organic skincare in this amazing country, with its vast countryside and all these natural resources?’

Whenever I create a product, I try to include traditional materials: for example, the milk that we use is part of our nomadic culture. Organic is nothing new to the nomads; it’s their way of life. We have something called sheep’s-tail fat that we use on babies’ and elderly people’s skin. It contains so much collagen. Mongolian sheep have it in their tails because they have to survive our harsh winters. In nomadic culture, this is so normal.”

No more trash talk – see value in everything.

Clean up your act
Suwar and Berfin Mert, co-founders, Bower, Stockholm

Suwar and Berfin Mert are the brother-and-sister team behind Swedish app Bower, which rewards users whenever they recycle everyday waste items. They tell us about fundraising for global expansion and why there’s no such thing as trash any more.

Eureka moment:
“When you recycle plastic bottles and cans in the Nordics or in Germany, you can receive money for it. Our company started with that idea. I had a lot of reusable cotton bags that I would always forget to take to the shop. So I thought, ‘Why not have a similar deposit system for these bags as well?’ We explored this concept and pivoted a few times before we came up with the solution that we have now.

We realised that the way forward was to make the recycling part a no-brainer and reward people: you scan the item that you want to deposit and bring it with you to the nearest recycling point. Once you have done so, you are awarded points, which you can redeem for money or discounts on various products, or alternatively you can donate it to charity. We want to show that all packages have value and that nothing should be dismissed as trash. That’s where Bower comes in.”

You can have your cake (or bagel) and eat it.

Going with the grain
Aimee Yang, founder and CEO, BetterBrand, San Antonio

Aimee Yang’s innovative food start-up uses “grain-changing technology” and plant-based ingredients to provide healthy, delicious alternatives to carb-heavy foods, such as bagels.

Eureka moment:
“My life has always revolved around my diet and healthy eating. I used to be on a roller-coaster ride of craving something and then wondering whether I should eat it. If I did, I’d feel guilty; if I didn’t, I’d feel deprived. It consumed so much of my mind and caused me so much anxiety. I used to dream of a world where we could simply eat what we wanted and never had to worry about gaining weight or suffering negative health consequences. I thought that it would be so exciting, so liberating. Then I started looking at health and nutrition statistics and all of the dots connected. I said to myself, ‘This is what we’re going to do. We will make this dream world a reality.’

That initial excitement still fuels my journey with BetterBrand. We started with the Better Bagel because it’s the most carbohydrate-heavy food. What better way to showcase our innovation than by transforming something like that into the net-carb equivalent of two slices of banana?”

Ensure that you bring everyone along with you.

Passing it on
Andreas Von Der Heide, co-founder, Les Deux, Copenhagen

Andreas Von Der Heide was studying law at the University of Copenhagen when he co-founded Les Deux in 2011, which is now one of Scandinavia’s leading menswear brands. He also engages in a wide range of charity work, both personally and through his csr platform, Les Deux Legacy.

Eureka moment:
“We have built a fashion company but I see it as a platform for doing good things in the world. We have a social responsibility wherever we are doing business in the world. Whether it’s putting children through school or building basketball courts, we want to be part of the community – and part of changing the world. People are afraid of talking about being profitable but we couldn’t do this if we weren’t. People want to interact with the brand and our employees love it; they feel part of something bigger. We are proud of what we are doing.

I always had a dream. My father died when I was two. I wanted to leave behind a company that would ensure that I had a legacy. I need to show my three children at home what their dad and the company that he was a part of were capable of. One day they can look at it all and say, ‘OK, we can make a difference.’ That is what I’m teaching them.”

Keep learning from the best.

Sound advice
Tom Edwards, host of ‘The Entrepreneurs’

One constant in the testimonials that we hear on The Entrepreneurs is the great value of guidance, the defining contribution that insights from those who have already blazed a trail can make to businesses at the start of their journey. So, our final word to the wise and piece of advice for aspiring entrepreneurs out there is to keep listening to the fabulous founders who are kind enough to share their stories on Monocle Radio. In every episode, people reveal how career switches, unexpected ideas and a little luck took them in fresh directions that they might never have imagined otherwise. And it’s OK to have questions. Most founders don’t quite know where the next venture might lead them; many have moved mountains (as well as country) to try something new for just this reason. And no matter where you end up, success remains subjective if you’re your own boss – and sometimes there will be hurdles along the way. So, whether it’s from a social enterprise changing perceptions about purpose or a technology company that can incorporate traditional values, you’ll hear essential advice and unrivalled insights every week. The very best idea you could have right now? Tune in. Your own eureka moment is just a twist of the dial away.
Monocle.com/radio

Inside information

Abu Dhabi

Stay: The Abu Dhabi Edition
A stylish spot overlooking the Al Bateen Marina. Designed by Lebanese firm Khatib & Alami, its curvaceous form encompasses 198 rooms. The restaurant is headed by British chef Tom Aikens.
editionhotels.com

Stay: Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental
A palatial beachfront hotel that’s to be savoured over a luxurious break rather than on a business trip. Dining options include Hakkasan Abu Dhabi and Talea by Antonio Guida.
mandarinoriental.com

Eat: Aptitude Café
This annexe of Louvre Abu Dhabi is worthy of a visit in its own right. Try the spicy shakshuka or the truffle rigatoni.
louvreabudhabi.ae

Eat: Flavors
Argentinian wagyu shawarma and fiery chicken are seared on an open grill by chef Nabeel Hassan, who honed his craft in Damascus. There, he learned the art of flambage, in which meat is smoked with spirits for a rich flavour.
flavorslc.com

Eat: Marmellata
Father-and-son duo Raj and Sebastian Dagstani serve up homemade focaccia topped with imaginative ingredients, such as smoked duck breast or sticky figs. A neighbourhood classic.
marmellatalove.com

Eat: Niri
Modern izakaya Niri is a homely Japanese bar and dining room. Perch at the counter to watch the chefs preparing umami-rich miso sea bass and smoky lamb chops that are delicately served in shiso pesto.
nirirestaurant.com

Eat: No57
Entrepreneurs Buthaina Al Mazrui and Alamira Noor Bani Hashim co-founded the No57 brand in 2012. The former supper-club hosts now have a café with a modern menu and sharing plates.
no57.co

Eat: Saddle Café
Saddle has various Abu Dhabi outposts, so you’re never far from a coffee fix or za’atar croissant. Drop by its bustling cafés on Hudayriat Island and Al Raha Gardens, and its first dine-in spot at Marsa Al Bateen.
7th Street, Al Raha Gardens, Khalifa City

Eat: SLRP
Another Japanese joint – this one’s best for ramen. The handmade noodles are superb but expect a twist: truffle oil, caramelised walnuts or mushroom cream. It’s the world’s first Michelin-starred ramen restaurant.
slrpramen.com

Visit: 421
The garage-style doorway of this former warehouse space retracts to reveal a creative hub, studio, library, shop and gallery. Expect all kinds of experimentation, from cinema and pottery to movement workshops.
421.online

Visit: Abu Dhabi Fish Market
The new marketplace in the port district of Mina Zayed is home to fresh seafood restaurants, shops and dry-fish stalls.
Mina Zayed port

Visit: Louvre Abu Dhabi
A cultural partnership between France and the uae paved the way for this region-leading art centre by architect Jean Nouvel.
louvreabudhabi.ae

Visit: Manarat Al Saadiyat
In the heart of the uae’s new cultural hub, Manarat Al Saadiyat is supporting grass-roots initiatives in an expanding international art scene. Think classes, talks, screenings, exhibitions and more.
manaratalsaadiyat.ae

Visit: Things
Take a seat at the espresso bar, which hosts guest roasters from Qatar and Singapore, browse the designer eyewear on sale or attend one of the jazz nights.
wearethings.ae

See: Abrahamic Family House
A symbol of tolerance on a concrete plinth: a mosque, church and synagogue. Architect David Adjaye gave each equal prominence.
abrahamicfamilyhouse.ae

See: Jubail Mangrove Walking Park
Spot the reef herons, sea turtles and flamingos in this marine habitat. It’s a refreshing change from the bustle of the metropolitan district.
jubailisland.ae

See: Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
One of the uae’s most remarkable mosques. German chandeliers, Austrian crystals and Indian marble make up the rich details of Syrian architect Youssef Abdelke’s masterpiece.
szgmc.gov.ae

Shop: The Galleria
This mall in the city’s new financial district is housed in an experimental Arabic lattice-style building. After expansion in 2019, it has become a one-stop retail hub with a rooftop park.
thegalleria.ae

Shop: Local
Jack Brett and Jasim Alkhouri’s lively stop-off in Al Zeina includes a streetwear boutique, barbershop for a quick trim and an excellent little coffee shop.
localco.ae

Shop: Mazaraa Farm Shop
Juicy tomatoes, sweet potatoes, chillies and aubergines grow here in abundance. The waste is recycled into fertiliser for the farm’s menagerie of buffaloes, horses, hens and cows.
11 Lane 438, Al Bahyah

Work: Hub71
Abu Dhabi’s gateway for new technology companies has collaborated with WeWork to build the city’s best workspace on the 15th floor of the Al Khatem Tower.
hub71.com

Dubai

Stay: Park Hyatt Dubai
A palm-fringed affair on Dubai’s historic Creek with sprawling views. Despite its 223 rooms, the Park Hyatt has a refreshing low-rise residential feel, a short stroll from the golf and yacht clubs and traditional souks.
hyatt.com

Stay: XVA Hotel
Dubai is home to hundreds of hotels but very few could be considered boutique. xva opened in the Al Fahidi district in 2003 with the idea of creating both a hotel where art lovers could stay and a space to raise the profile of local artists.
xvahotel.com

Eat: Al Falamanki
Al Falamanki transports Dubai diners to a Beirut backstreet, complete with shisha smoke and the clatter of backgammon sets. The Levantine fare takes centre stage. Try the hommos Beiruti.
Four Seasons Resort, Jumeirah Beach Road

Eat: Bu Qtair
No menu, no reservations and no frills. Bu Qtair serves grilled fish, spicy prawns, parathas, curry gravy and rice. Fishermen make up a good portion of the clientele but those in the know will travel to be part of the action here. Cash only.
buqtairrestaurant.com

Eat: The Guild
The Guild is Dubai’s louche, leafy tribute to the brasseries of Europe and New York but delivered in true uae style (in other words, it takes things to the max). Its art deco interiors are filled with rich textures and colours. This 1,600 sq m space with five food and drink spots is great for a business breakfast meeting or nightcap. Try the sunken lounge or a perch at the Potting Shed Bar.
theguilddubai.com

Eat: Jun’s
A fun, upmarket affair in Downtown Dubai founded by Chinese-Canadian chef Kelvin Cheung. Expect experimental dishes with ingredients and ideas from across the world.
junsdubai.com

Eat: Lowe
Lowe’s large open kitchen features a wood oven, charcoal grill and a rotisserie, all of which are employed to create chef duo Jesse Blake and Kate Christou’s tasty international dishes. Well worth a visit.
lowe-dubai.com

Eat: The Maine
Montréal entrepreneur Joey Ghazal brought The Maine Oyster Bar & Grill to Dubai in 2015. There are sites in Business Bay and Studio City, as well as a taco truck and an outpost in London. It’s a great space for a deal-sealing drink.
themaine.ae

Eat: Orfali Bros
Brothers Mohammad, Wassim and Omar Orfali moved here from war-torn Syria and opened the joyful Jumeirah restaurant in 2021. They soon became the toast of the town for their just-so pastries and inventive small plates riffing on regional flavours.
orfalibros.com

Eat: Teible
In Dubai’s smart Jameel Arts Centre, Teible, from entrepreneur Peter Ahn, is a Nordic farm-to-table restaurant. The uae’s investment in regional produce and farming is starting to bear fruit (and vegetables).
teible.com

Eat: Trèsind Studio
Chef Himanshu Saini’s team earned fêted Indian restaurant Trèsind Studio its second Michelin star in 2023. Its bar, Papadom, makes excellent drinks to complement the meals.
tresindstudio.com

Eat: Zuma
Zuma has locations all over the globe but its Dubai outpost is well known for its stellar service and excellent cocktails. Expect modern Japanese food that stays just the right side of traditional.
zumarestaurant.com

Caffeinate: Heal Home
Heal Home feels like a slice of California on Al Manara Road. Expect bright-green matcha lattes and fruity açaí bowls. There’s also a decent homeware section for scented candles and uae-made ceramics.
healhome.ae

Caffeinate: To the Moon Back
Inspired by speciality coffee shops while studying in Australia, Abu Dhabi-born Zainab Al Mousawi opened her own. The space is decorated with eccentric furniture and the food is out of this world.
La Plage Residence, Al Athar Street, Jumeirah

See: Alserkal Avenue
This compound in Al Quoz is at the centre of Dubai’s creative revival. Its warren-like galleries, cinemas, music venues and more all share an atmosphere that is refreshingly collegiate compared to what you’d find in London or New York.
Al Quoz, Industrial Area 1

See: Jameel Arts Centre
The ideas of exchange and transparency are reflected here in the design by Serie Architects, with glass walls that look out onto a sculpture park. Come to browse the Jameel Foundation’s permanent art collection or one of the many revolving contemporary exhibitions.
jameelartscentre.org

See: Tashkeel
An incubator for visual art and design hailing from the uae. The venue’s rich annual programme opens the doors for local talent to integrate with the established art world through a host of talks, collaborations and workshops.
tashkeel.org

Shop: Kinokuniya
This Japanese bookshop is the best in town. Based inside Dubai Mall, the region’s largest bookshop offers a collection of more than half a million books and countless magazines in languages including English, Arabic, French and Chinese.
uae.kinokuniya.com

Shop: Magrudy’s
Opened in 1975, Magrudy’s is a family-run business and the catch-all for Dubai residents seeking print, stationery, boardgames and more. Loyal customers come for book clubs and talks by authors.
magrudy.com

Shop: Mirzam
Run by New Zealander Kathy Johnston, Mirzam’s cocoa beans and ingredients – inspired by the region’s maritime spice routes – are chosen for their flavours.
mirzam.com

Sharjah

Stay: Chedi Al Bait
The Serai Wing of the Chedi Al Bait hotel’s new travertine stone and perforated white- metal exteriors blends with the serene, textile-rich interiors. The two-storey Khalid Grand Suite provides what might be the best night’s sleep in Sharjah.
ghmhotels.com

Stay: Hotel Al Faya Retreat Sharjah
Two simple 1960s stone buildings have been transformed into a five-room eco-lodge and spa offering fine dining, a roof terrace for stargazing and a swimming pool.
hotels-sharjah-uae.com

Eat: Ahmed Ali Kababi & Sons
Founded in 1950, Ahmad Ali Kababi is a renowned no-frills and no-fuss Sharjah establishment. The menu consists of Iranian speciality kabab masti, which consists of small pieces of chicken or lamb marinated in sour yoghurt and grilled on hot coals.
Maysaloon, Al Sharq

Eat: Fen Café & Restaurant
Sheikha Hoor Al Qasimi opened this spot during the 2016 Sharjah Art Biennial, and it has since expanded to multiple venues throughout the emirate.
Sheikh Abdullah Bin Ali Al Mahmoud Square, Mureijah

Visit: Heart Beach
Located in one of Sharjah’s most popular tourist destinations, the undisturbed Heart Beach looks out over the Gulf of Oman on the eastern coast of the uae. Unlike in more built-up areas, there are no amenities, so take a picnic and plenty of water.
Al Mudeife 1, Khorfakkan

See: Al Hamriyah Studios
Opened in 2017 by the Sharjah Art Foundation, Al Hamriyah is a revered space on the site of a former souk on the Sharjah coast near Ajman, Umm Al Quwain and Ras Al Khaimah. Designed by Emirati architect Khalid Al Najjar, it’s a charming art space for the northern emirates.
Hamriya West

See: Al Noor Butterfly House
Located across the water from Al Noor Mosque, this attractive structure is home to more than 500 butterflies from 20 different species. The house itself is made from 4,000 aluminium flowers, latticed by 3deluxe architects to allow in the right amount of sunlight.
alnoorisland.ae

See: Flying Saucer
Opened in 1978 as a French restaurant and patisserie, Flying Saucer was renovated and reopened as an exhibition venue for the Sharjah Art Foundation in 2020. The brutalist star-shaped building remains a must-see.
sharjahart.org

See: Kalba Ice Factory
Peruvian studio 51-1 Arquitectos transformed this 1970s ice-storage facility into a cultural venue, restaurant and hotel in 2023. The Sharjah Art Foundation displays large-scale contemporary artworks here.
Algurm

See: Masrah Al Qasba Theatre
This multi-purpose auditorium with a diverse programme of music, theatre and art is also home to Sharjah’s most important cultural events, including the Sharjah Film Festival.
alqasba.ae

See: Mleiha Archaeological Centre
Centred around a Bronze Age tomb, this area in the Sharjah desert was transformed into an urban park by Dubai-based Dabbagh Architects. Visitors can explore the indoor museum, desert gardens and stunning surroundings.
discovermleiha.ae

See: Wasit Nature Reserve
Made up of salt flats, ponds and a large lake along coastal sand dunes, Wasit Nature Reserve is a great place to glimpse some wildlife, including almost 200 bird species and a whole host of small mammals, reptiles and insects.
Sheikh Salem Bin Sultan Al Qasimi Street, Al Houma

Ras Al Khaimah

Stay: The Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Wadi Desert
An hour’s drive from Dubai International is the newly relaunched Ritz-Carlton Al Wadi. The hotel draws on indigenous bedouin culture with vast tented suites, traditional watchtowers and ornamental lanterns, making it a refreshing oasis in which to escape from the heat of the desert.
ritzcarlton.com

Eat: 1484 By Puro
At 1,484 metres above sea level, Puro overlooks the rocky landscape of Jebel Jais canyon. Arrive for sunrise or sunset and treat yourself to anything from duck confit to yoghurt muesli.
puro.ae

Eat: SOL Beach Lounge & Bar
In the Hilton Ras Al Khaimah Beach Resort, SOL offers shawarma, cocktails and seafood. With coastal views and pool access, it is the ideal place to loaf around and relax. Don’t miss the chef’s piña colada cake.
hilton.com

Eat: UMI
This trendy restaurant offers teppan-yaki in the desert. There’s a resident sushi and sashimi chef too, while the expansive bar and lounge area is bordered by a Japanese garden.
Vienna Street, Jazeera Al Hamra

Drink: Karma Kafé by Buddha Bar
At Hampton by Hilton Marjan Island, travellers gather at Karma Kafé for the finest in mixology, cuisine and music. Enjoy the stark contrast of the fiery interior and the delicately painted magnolia wallpaper.
hilton.com

Visit: Emirates Flower Farm
Recently opened to visitors, the Emirates Flower Farm welcomes guests to wander through avenues of dandelions, yarrow, saffron and larkspur, and arrange bouquets at the end of their trip. The farm supplies florists in Sharjah and Dubai.
uaeflowerfarm.ae

Visit: Jebel Jais canyon
Part of the Al Hajar range, Jebel Jais is the highest mountain in the uae. It’s criss-crossed with hiking trails and ziplines, all open to visitors. Even in summer, it’s much cooler than at sea level below and offers the opportunity for outdoor activities, as well as lunch at 1484 By Puro.
visitjebeljais.com

See: Al Jazeera Al Hamra
The only remaining intact pearling village in the Gulf region. With a mosque, souk, fort, courtyards and living quarters, the historic abandoned village offers a window into the uae’s past.
ajah.ae

See: Suwaidi Pearl Farm
In a small fishing village at the foot of the Hajars, the Suwaidi Pearl Farm offers tours of the surrounding Arabian Gulf, as well as jewellery workshops and paddle-boarding.
suwaidipearls.ae

Fujairah

Stay: Address Beach Resort Fujairah
There are many luxury resorts to choose from on the uae’s east coast but it wouldn’t be a trip to Fujairah without a stop in Al Aqah, home to some of the nation’s best coastline, where you’ll find this hotel.
addresshotels.com

Eat: Al Meshwar
Hungry? Then step into this restaurant whose interiors have impressive columns, arches and chandeliers. Al Meshwar has been dedicated to Lebanese cuisine for the past 20 years.
Hamad Bin Abdulla Road

Eat: Hygge Cafe
Inspired by the Danish concept of cosiness, this café’s earthy tones are serene. Just off the Al Aqah beach, it’s a tasteful spot to try after taking a dip.
+971 56 109 1417
Al Aqah

Eat: Steki
Greek classics such as moussaka, pastitsio and spetsiota might seem out of place in the heart of Fujairah but the curvy interiors of this restaurant mimic the alcoves and rocky coasts shared by Greece and the eastern emirate.
steki.ae

See: Fujairah Fort
This 16th-century fort is the oldest in the uae. It offers a great vantage point to see the city.
Al Sharyah

See: Sheikh Zayed Mosque
Named to honour the founder of the uae, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, this mosque stands out from the vast cityscape of Fujairah.
Al Ittihad

Ajman

Stay: Ajman Saray
On a stretch of pristine beach with views of the Arabian Gulf, Ajman Saray was inspired by mashrabiya motifs and intricate zellij tiles. The hotel has a great pool and impressive fountains.
marriott.com

Eat: Dragon’s Place
On Ajman’s coastline, the charismatic Heina and Teddy serve chef Hamza’s sashimi and nigiri. For a more intimate affair, there are two private rooms with red floor cushions and shoji paper walls.
Bahi Ajman Palace Hotel, Sheikh Humaid Bin Rashid Al Nuaimi Street

Eat: Seascape
In Ajman Corniche’s Wyndham Garden, Seascape specialises in a range of fresh seafood.
wyndhamgardenajman.com

Visit: Ajman Stud Farm
The Emirati horse-riding tradition is galloping ahead at this site 30km outside Ajman city. The top-notch equestrian centre is the passion project of Sheikh Ammar bin Humaid Al Nuaimi, crown prince of Ajman.
ajmanstud.com

Visit: Al Zorah Nature Reserve
These protected wetlands provide refuge for a host of flora and fauna. With its 7km of waterfront, 2km of beach and a tidal creek, it makes for a perfect setting for windsurfing or kayaking amid nature.
The Pavilion Al Zorah, Al Ittihad Road

Umm Al Quwain

Stay: Vida Beach Resort
A yellow-striped parasol at the beach delineates a great afternoon spent in Umm Al Quwain. This hotel sits on the beachfront and is our favourite stop in the area.
vidahotels.com

Visit: Al Hamriyah Studios Beach House
The Sharjah Art Foundation’s northernmost outpost is a marvel of modern architecture that basks by the beach at Al Hamriyah, equidistant from Ajman and Umm Al Quwain.
sharjahart.org

See: Sailfish roundabout
If you’re driving down Umm Al Quwain’s eastern beachside, slow down at the Oqbah Bin Nafae Street roundabout to appreciate some true kitsch. You can’t miss the statue of a sailfish leaping from the centre of the roundabout. It’s not the only sculpture of its kind: in Dibba, there’s a giant paraffin lamp centrepiece and you can pivot around two giant oysters at a Ras Al Khaimah junction.

Do: Umm Al Quwain Open Beach
Near uaq’s fishing harbour you’ll find a 2km stretch of beach dotted with rustic huts operating non-motorised watersports. Kite Beach Center is the best spot to get kitted out with all you need for kite surfing, stand-up paddle-boarding, surfing, kayaking – and it has a decent bar too.
kitebeachcenter.ae

New waters

You could, if you squint, be in Ibiza. We’re standing at the foot of an Iberian-looking restaurant with a stucco exterior and the loose shape of a lighthouse. But look closer and you’ll see inspiration taken from across the world, from a rustic terrace to parasols emblazoned with Aztec suns. In the shallows there’s a bright, white superyacht, bobbing in the calm blue water.

Only this isn’t the Balearics but a beach club called Tagomago on the trunk of the Palm Jumeirah in Dubai. In keeping with this city’s zeal for constantly reshaping itself, a corner of the club’s sugar-white sand is being hollowed out by a digger to make way for a pool. “It’s not usual for a restaurant to reclaim some of the Palm in this way,” says Rizwan Kassim, the French co-founder of the Rikas Hospitality Group, which owns Tagomago and several other beach clubs along the coastline. “We enjoy the business of creating a destination.”

Tagomago opened earlier in 2023 to some fanfare. It is among a crop of new Mediterranean-inspired beach clubs setting out their stalls – and loungers – around the uae. A spirited competition is under way for who has the most elegant lunchtime service or the best (read biggest) sound system and accompanying sundowners. Rikas already holds four sun-and-sand clubs around Dubai – including St Tropez-esque Twiggy on the city’s Creek – but now has its sights set on building more in the years to come and is looking at other emirates. “Since the pandemic, there has been a lot of people moving to the uae from Russia, China and Europe, which has brought a new mentality into the market,” says Kassim. The beach is big business, he explains; seeking inspiration, he has looked to the south of France, Spain and Italy, where a rich culture of water-going exists. “The idea is to create something that makes you forget that you are in Dubai.”

That might sound like an odd sentiment but independent beach clubs were until recently a fairly niche pursuit in the Emirates. The now-defunct Jumeirah Beach Club was the original expat hangout before it closed in 2007 and, since then, much of the coastline has become a tussle between hotel groups and real-estate developers. The actual public beaches, like the windswept Kite Beach in Dubai, are much-loved but left fairly wild.

The past few years have seen emphasis placed on giving more people access to the water. That’s not just for hotel guests or apartment owners; new infrastructure has been built on several public beaches, such as the lights and showers on Dubai’s Night Swimming Beach, a popular spot for evenings during the hot summer months. On the Palm Jumeirah, West Palm Beach is a row of privately run beach clubs of varying quality that promise to whisk visitors away to Mykonos, Bodrum or maybe even Sochi in the summer.

When Dubai leans into a new trend, it tends to fall hard. A swathe of its Jumeirah waterfront is currently being demolished to make way for multiple new beach clubs and restaurants opening next year. The area will be rebranded “J1”, and the likes of Italy’s Gigi Rigolatto promise to bring a bit of the Riviera to Jumeirah.

“There has been a major shift from nightlife to more day-life in this city, perhaps because a lot of the nightclubs closed during the pandemic,” says Jacob Kane, the Aussie manager of Kyma, a Rikas-run beach club on the Palm that has a Grecian vibe. “People are looking for somewhere they can dine and stay until sunset.”

The temperature on Kyma’s stretch of sand might nudge over 40c on the day that Monocle visits but the chilled infinity pool soon fills up. On a weekend, Kane says, they can get as many as 800 guests a day and the crowds don’t fall away entirely in the punishing summer heat. The influx of Russians buying up properties on the Palm has supercharged the industry. “At one point, we were looking at putting Russian wine on the menu,” says Kane.

With their tasselled parasols and striped beach towels, many of the uae’s new clubs take visual cues from somewhere else entirely. They have become a place where a very international clientele can feel at ease; somewhere to kick back a bit in a city that has emerged as a crossroads of doing business. It’s no wonder that overseas beach-club operators are looking to move in. Yet there is only so much beachfront up for grabs and the Rikas Hospitality Group is not the only entrepreneur eyeing up other emirates to plant a flag in the sand.

Ras Al Khaimah (RAK) is due to host the Emirates’ first casino when Wynn Resorts opens in 2027 and this is expected to reposition what is often thought of as a quieter corner of the country. Several beach clubs are getting in early; Ula, for instance, opened first in Dubai but has now franchised with an opening on rak’s manmade Marjan Island, where the Wynn will one day stand.

“Dubai is oversaturated and the Palm is built up but in rak you have a sense of nature,” says Fabien Chesnais, the general manager of the Mövenpick Resort that hosts Ula’s new rak outpost. He shows us around: palm-tree fronds rattle in the delicate Gulf breeze, there’s the insistent thud of Balearic house music and someone on a lounger is popping open a beer at 11.00. “It’s a land of opportunity out here.”

Case study:
Night swimming

In the shadow of the “seven-star” Burj Al Arab hotel, surrounded by some of the most sought-after property in Dubai, is a public amenity that is accessible to all and very particular to life in the uae. The Night Swimming Beach is a floodlit patch of sand and sea in Umm Suqeim where people can splash around, swim and soak in the cooler evening water by moonlight. It is a peaceful, elegant place – there are no pumping sound systems here, no clamour of advertisements or revving cars. An almost reverential hush settles over the place as day turns to night, with only the gentle murmur of a multitude of accents and the occasional whoop of enjoyment coming from the waves.

Capital investment

Abu Dhabi may be the wealthiest Emirate and the uae’s capital but it’s occasionally overshadowed by its louder, bolder neighbour to the northeast. While wealth and administrative clout might not sound like reasons to move here, Abu Dhabi’s success has come from a combination of careful planning and ambitious investments that have made its seaside developments and islands – of which it boasts more than 200 – some of the country’s most desirable places to live. What’s more, entrepreneurs are starting to feel the draw too.

Just ask Raj Dagstani, the founder of Marmellata, a bustling waterside pizzeria in Al Mina. After moving from the US, Dagstani wanted to open a spot where his children could work and his family could be part of a community. Originally open just one night a week – with queues snaking around the block – Marmellata really started cooking following the pandemic, when Dagstani decided to open four days a week and discard his hole-in-the-wall approach. “Now we have 30 seats inside and 30 more outside,” he tells Monocle with excitement. “Marmellata is an extension of our home and everybody’s welcome.”

There are many nearby diversions too. Not far from Marmellata is 421, a gallery – with a sensational bookshop – dedicated to emerging regional artists. Designed by Danish architect Bjarke Ingels and dreamt up by the Salama Bint Hamdan Al Nahyan Foundation, this space is the first step in an enterprising plan to overhaul the former warehouse district to create leafy, walkable spaces for setting up businesses in a once overlooked part of town. 421 also proves an inviolable truth about good neighbourhoods: they must have a great coffee shop. The team worked with Auro Coffee (whose less fancy flagship is just a few doors from Marmellata) to station an outpost within the gallery by third-generation Ethiopian coffee-maker Ghassan Bagersh. With 3 million sq m of available space, the Mina Zayed Port is also set to be transformed into a home for the city’s fish, haberdashery, and fruit and vegetable markets.

While inroads have been made for cycling and walking, you’ll still need a car here and the vast majority of journeys are made on four wheels, whether you live in desirable Al Maryah, Al Reem or Umm Yifeenah islands. So, since you’re strapped in, you may as well make the most of the seaside city’s most famous assets on nearby Al Saadiyat Island.

The headline attraction here is architect Jean Nouvel’s domed, low-slung delight:the Louvre Abu Dhabi, which opened in 2017. To the north is another sprawling site, this time designed by Frank Gehry, which will house the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, set to open in 2025. As if that wasn’t enough, there’s also the Foster + Partners-designed Zayed National Museum, with its extravagant silhouette that resembles a falcon’s wing, the Natural History Museum (also due in 2025), and the Abrahamic Family House by David Adjaye, a site with a synagogue, church and mosque set on a raised plinth. It’s monumental stuff.

But it’s not all leisure. Abu Dhabi is a hard-working place and Al Maryah Island has some of the city’s newest and most sought-after offices, many already snapped up by blue-chip tenants. The island’s location between downtown and new business and residential districts makes it an important place for trade and commerce. Indeed, it was designated Abu Dhabi’s new Central Business District in 2007, and the island also houses Abu Dhabi Global Market, a financial centre and free zone. For a better view, head to the 15th floor of Al Khatem Tower, where tech company Hub71 has collaborated with Wework on a co-working space that overlooks the capital.

Back at Marmellata, the waves are crashing on the seafront and the light is fading. Dagstani greets familiar faces as he zips around handing piping-hot pizzas to happy tables. He may have arrived here from the US but there’s a growing sense that even expats are proud of Abu Dhabi’s increasingly desirable quality of life.

“One day a guest walked in with 3kg of figs,” says Dagstani. “So naturally we made fig pizza. We use uae-made cheese and work with local farms in the desert to grow oyster mushrooms. We have a simple, ingredient-driven approach.” Some careful planning, neighbourhood investments and a little community spirit has served Dagstani well. They might just be the ingredients for Abu Dhabi’s success too.

Living in Sharjah
The UAE’s third city is ideal for cultured types.

Sharjah concentrates on Emirati culture, art and history. With some of the UAE’s best museums and galleries, it is an interesting place to not only visit but also to live. It boasts a more relaxed lifestyle than busier Dubai to its southwest and there are plenty of family-friendly residential areas to choose from. Al Taawun is a bustling district with views of the waterfront and Al Nahda is a good option for those commuting to Dubai. Sharjah is more conservative than its counterparts, so you won’t be able to go out to enjoy your favourite tipple, however there is no shortage of good places to eat. Fen Café & Restaurant in the Sharjah Art Foundation space offers a lavish international menu. If you’re looking for something more Arabian-inspired, head to Laffah Restaurant for shawarma “as it is meant to be”. With creativity at the heart of the emirate, Sharjah takes co-working spaces seriously and there is an array to choose from; Fikra Campus on Al Wahda Street would be our choice. Sharjah has land on both the Gulf coast and the Gulf of Oman, so be sure to venture to the town of Khorfakkan on the weekends for sand, sea and rugged landscapes.