Swedish firm Heart Aerospace’s new hybrid electric aircraft

In the race to build a viable electric aircraft for commercial use, we have seen countless grand ideas but few fully realised planes. That’s why the recent unveiling of Heart Experimental 1 (HEART X1), a prototype for what will become the ES-30 aircraft from Sweden’s Heart Aerospace, is so exciting. It’s a real aeroplane that will fly and the first that we have seen of this size and class. Scheduled to be airborne in 2025, it will be the heaviest electric vehicle so far to take flight. “Aviation is approaching a crossroads where its growth ambitions clash with the need for decarbonisation,” says Anders Forslund, the ceo of Heart Aerospace, when Monocle arrives at the firm’s facility in Säve. “New technologies are urgently needed.” Indeed. Aviation emissions are projected to triple by 2050 to meet the demand of commercial and freight flights.

A hybrid-electric 30-seater regional aircraft, the ES-30 will fly 200km using two electric motors, while a pair of engines powered by jet fuel will be on standby. Airlines can thus have a green plane without some of the risks associated with battery-only aircraft. “The hybrid system allows for an extended range,” says Etienne Lemarchand, Heart’s avionics and systems lead. “If you hit 200km and want to extend the range or need to divert, the jet-fuel system kicks in.”

Several airlines have already expressed interest in the ES-30. These include usual Nordic suspects such as SAS, Braathens Regional Airlines (BRA) and Icelandair, and North America’s United Airlines and Air Canada. Some airlines have joined Heart’s advisory board to help develop the aircraft, which is likely to be ready for market in the next few years. “It’s an aircraft for short sectors and regional flying,” says Claudio Camelier, Heart’s head of marketing and product strategy. “Over the years, airlines lost interest in this market because the existing planes are expensive to operate.” Camelier leads the team that’s selling the aircraft. “We’re pitching this plane to airlines with an interest in reopening regional routes.”

Heart Aerospace says that the charging and battery system will allow 30-minute turnarounds between flights – a crucial piece of the puzzle for regional airline operations. But it’s conscious that a broader ecosystem needs to grow around electric aviation. “You need governments to be investing in green energy – and airports to be investing in the charging infrastructure,” says Camelier.
heartaerospace.com

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From Puglia to the skies: Three innovations in hospitality and design

Growth strategy
Casina Cinquepozzi, Italy

When Nigerian-born, London-based jewellery designer Thelma West and her partner, Stefano Liotta, first visited the Casina Cinquepozzi property in Puglia, they fell in love with it immediately. “Even from the driveway, I could tell that there was something special about it,” says West. Since then, the pair have been renovating the space to turn it into a guesthouse, which is expected to open in early 2025.

Named after the five wells on the property, the Casina Cinquepozzi is an 18th-century manor house surrounded by more than 16 hectares of land. When the couple took on the restoration, they decided to retain everything that could be preserved. “We wanted to keep the magic that we felt when we first saw it,” says West. “It has been a beautiful process of getting to know the people of Puglia better and finding out what they can bring to the table in terms of craft.”

There are 55 rooms spread over the three floors of the main manor house and attached buildings, where original tiles and frescoes mix with more modern elements inspired by one of Liotta’s favourite architects, Mario Bellini. “The ground floor held on to a lot of the original masseria features so we only brought in a few additional colours,” he says.

As well as the hotel, West and Liotta are preparing an artist’s residency programme, which will allow creatives to spend time in Puglia. Here, they will be able to take inspiration from the region and find moments of serenity.

As the couple get ready to welcome their first guests, they aren’t too worried about achieving perfection right away. “This isn’t a hotel where everything is fixed for ever,” says Liotta. “The Casina Cinquepozzi is a home and it will change as we and the guests live and grow.”
casinacinquepozzi.com

Experimental jet set
Noma Projects,
Copenhagen

Though Noma closed its doors at the end of 2024, the exploratory spirit of the three-Michelin-star restaurant lives on in Noma Projects. At this “food laboratory”, launched in 2022, chef René Redzepi and his team are busy experimenting with flavours and bottling up their findings for home cooks. Its most recent release consists of six products for the pantry – think pumpkin-seed praline with hints of pine oil and umami-rich mushroom garum. Here’s hoping that securing these goodies is easier than nabbing a table at the restaurant.
nomaprojects.com

Soft option
Caon Design Office, Sydney

It isn’t always easy to nod off when you’re hurtling through the sky at an altitude of 35,000 feet. Thankfully, two Australian companies have collaborated on a new concept that might help. Sydney-based practice Caon Design Office has teamed up with the Woolmark Company, the global authority on wool, to develop Modulo – a cocoon-like First Class seat consisting of merino wool wound around a light titanium and carbon-fibre frame.

“Merino wool is a wonderful material when it comes to breathability and heat dissipation,” says David Caon, the lead industrial designer at Caon Design Office. “One of the big barriers to falling sleep onboard an aircraft is being too warm. Passengers often struggle to regulate temperature. The Modulo seat’s open-membrane structure will allow for better airflow and a unique, textured aesthetic.” Caon will also install backlighting and smart speakers in the seat’s meshed weave to help foster a calming atmosphere.

Modulo’s benefits will extend to airlines that adopt the system too. The use of Australian merino wool as a primary material means that there’s no need to rely on bulky, unsustainable foam. Furthermore, merino will save on weight.

Best of all, Modulo is – as its name suggests – modular, so airlines can easily strip the weave and replace it with another. “The concept’s flexibility allows airlines to evolve their cabins, brand them and keep things fresh,” says Caon. Sweet dreams.
caondesignoffice.com; woolmark.com

Interview: AIX events director Archana Dharni on what airline passengers need

Archana Dharni was recently appointed events director for Aircraft Interiors Expo (AIX), an aviation fair that takes place in Hamburg every spring.

How are people’s travel habits changing?
People are taking longer flights and airlines are doing a lot to accommodate for this. How do carriers put passenger safety first? And, while safety is key, how do they ensure that travellers are comfortable? Passenger expectations have evolved significantly over the years. It’s not just about getting from A to B. Our day-to-day comforts now need to be replicated in the cabin. Airlines are analysing different data points to figure out how they can continue to personalise their offering.

Personalisation is key, then?
We have been discussing the topic of personalisation for years. What do passengers want? Once you have the answer, you need to create a cabin that facilitates their needs. This can be achieved through ambient lighting, meals, drinks, the choice of amenities and in-flight entertainment. We’re not quite at a level of total individual personalisation yet  but we know that the long-term goal is to get to that point. There are already a lot of ways in which we can increase the number of options for passengers.

Are passengers becoming more demanding?
For short-haul flyers, it’s still about getting from A to B. But with long-haul passengers, especially with what they’re paying for flights now, there’s a level of expectation about what they are getting in that space.

You have talked a lot about comfort. Is it becoming more important to airlines?
Air New Zealand has introduced beds to its economy class. Is this likely to happen elsewhere straight away? No, probably not. But different options to boost passenger comfort are being explored. Airlines are beginning to provide travellers with alternative choices that cater more closely to their needs and increase their level of comfort.
aircraftinteriorsexpo.com

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A taste of Eurostar’s new premier-class dining menu

Eurostar has a new onboard four-course dining menu in its Premier Class for major international journeys including London to Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam. Rolled out at the end of 2024, the menu is by a culinary team headed by Jérémy Chan, executive chef at London’s Ikoyi, pâtissière Jessica Préalpato of Paris’s Hôtel San Régis and sommelier Honey Spencer.

The trio has taken over from French chef Raymond Blanc, who was Eurostar’s culinary director from 2012. The new crew has ushered in contemporary choices: think appetisers such as curried cauliflower mousseline and main options such as baked salmon and coconut rice. Also on the menu are cheddars and stiltons paired with quince chutney and a glass of Champagne Fleury. Spencer’s wine list features gems from small producers from across the continent, including Bordeaux’s Château Lamothe Dubourg. Breakfast is served on trains departing before 10.15, while passengers are treated to lunch or dinner on any later departures.

 “Three talents have joined forces to create a perfectly harmonised menu that can be served at a speed of 300km/h,” says Matthieu Quyollet, Eurostar’s director of development and new customer experience. “It’s not British, French or Belgian cuisine but one that’s on the move, combining the ingredients of the cities that Eurostar connects.”

The service’s upgrade is a sign of the renaissance taking place in railway dining. Providers are taking inspiration from the golden age of European restaurant cars, while travel brand Belmond is expanding its catered Pullman journeys with a new UK luxury sleeper train in 2025.
eurostar.com

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Five Monocle-approved cars for any roadtrip

On any roadtrip, your set of wheels needs to respond to the terrain that you’re tackling, whether that’s city streets or unpaved mountain tracks. It also needs to set the mood in terms of its look and feel. Here are five Monocle-approved motors to inspire your travels.

1.
Crown Sedan by Toyota
This Japanese vehicle was built with the requirements of a chauffeured car in mind. Its hi-tech suspension system makes for a smooth ride, while the large cabin is a perfect size for comfortable city breaks.

2.
Leon Estate by Cupra
The Martorell-based manufacturer has fitted this set of wheels with a generous trunk and Light Assist technology to ensure maximum visibility as you climb winding roads. With a great dynamic performance and race-inspired seating, the Leon Estate will take you to and from the mountains – and then some.

3.
110 R by Skoda
The Czech-made 110 R, a delightfully quirky sports car from the former Eastern bloc. Thanks to its elegant fastback roofline and two-door offering, it makes for a romantic weekend-getaway car.

4.
Truck by Telo
The pick-up truck has had a revamp at the hands of US-based Swiss designer Yves Béhar. Christened the Telo, it’s electric and designed with Mini Cooper-sized proportions in mind. With a US launch imminent and plans for European release in the works, off-road lovers are in for a treat.

5.
Defender 90 by Land Rover
This imposing all-wheel drive is a great urban runaround but it’s ideal for adventures off the beaten path too. The UK car-maker has ensured that it comes with built-in comforts, including an impressive surround-sound system.

ILTM – insights, plans and predictions for the luxury travel industry

The premise of the International Luxury Travel Market (ILTM) is simple: to work out where the well-heeled want to go over the next 12 months. Thousands of travel agents descend on the Palais des Festivals et des Congres in Cannes for the industry’s flagship trade show every December, plotting out client itineraries with major hospitality groups. This year there is near-unanimous agreement about the destination of choice. “Japan has been on steroids,” says Rainer Stampfer, the president of global operations for hotels and resorts at Four Seasons. “And it will do very well again in 2025.” He was bullish about the outlook for South America too, with Four Seasons opening locations in Belize and Cartagena, Colombia, next year. “I was just in Buenos Aires and there’s an incredible buzz,” says Stampfer.

On three vast floors, exhibitors range from behemoths of luxury travel such as Rosewood or IHG to cruise operators trying to tempt a new generation to sea. Aman’s presence, with its glowing box of shoji screens, spotlights a 2025 opening in Baja, Mexico. Finland’s representation shows originality, announcing a forthcoming modernist-inspired hideaway, Kotona Manor, in the Finnish Lakeland. The Gulf States impress: Saudi Arabia’s genial men in thobes touted undersea marvels and historic oasis cities; Dubai highlights the city’s dining and cultural scenes. Monocle also bumps into a delegation from Sharjah, the more bookish (and alcohol-free) emirate, which is mulling whether to plant a flag at ILTM next year. It’s currently putting the finishing touches on a crop of quaint new hotels.

Most of all, there is optimism at ILTM. Cristiano Rinaldi, the president of the Singapore-based Capella Hotel Group, is about to open a property in Taipei, undeterred by looming threats to Taiwanese democracy. With openings from Kyoto to Macau over the next year, he says that he is also confident that travel remains a priority even as high-end retail spending in Asia slows. “There doesn’t seem to be a decline in purchasing luxury experiences,” says Rinaldi.

1.
The cruise-ship pioneer
Anna Nash, president, Explora Journeys

How the MSC Group-owned company is elevating the cruise experience.

What marks Explora out from other luxury cruise operators?
We like to avoid the word “cruising”. What we offer is a floating hotel whose home is the ocean.

Could you tell us about your ship ‘Explora I’?
We have about 450 suites onboard and each has a terrace and a sea view. The horizon is your constant companion.

How are you enticing a new generation of travellers?
We’re already seeing a younger demographic joining us. They like the fact that they only need to unpack once and the hotel will take them to a different destination every day with ease.

Where are your areas of growth?
We currently have two ships on the water. The next to launch will be Explora III in 2026, followed by two more ships – one in 2027 and another in 2028. We have expanded our footprint and are going into northern Europe. Then, during the autumn season, we’ll be on the US east coast.

So, what sets Explora Journeys apart from other cruise operators?
We are a part of the world’s largest shipping organisation, msc Group, which is a family-owned company with a seafaring heritage going back more than 300 years. We’re learning a lot from the brand but we’re also launching an entirely new category on the water. So there are still things that we have to learn but we can rely on the backbone of our family company.
explorajourneys.com

2.
The patient innovator
Dan Ruff, CEO, Belmond

The head of the lvmh-owned hospitality brand on “slow luxury” and the importance of disconnecting.

How is business?
I have been in this role for a year and a half but with Belmond for seven – and 2024 has been a record year. We have done a lot of work to push our “slow luxury” strategy and it’s really bearing fruit.

What has changed to spur that growth?
It’s not really a matter of change – more of a continuous climb, both from the market perspective and in terms of what we’re delivering to guests.

So what is it that you’re doing?
We are focusing on “slow luxury”, which is what Belmond has done since the get-go. Take, for example, the launch of the Eastern and Oriental Express. The train is based in Singapore and does three-day loops around Malaysia. It has been a great experience for our guests.

Where are your target markets for 2025?
We’re launching an extraordinary train called the Britannic Explorer out of London that will do three-night trips through England and Wales. We’re also going to finish a remarkable hotel renovation [Splendido] with designer Martin Brudnizki in Portofino in 2025. Then we’ll open Villa Beatrice right next door in the summer, with its five suites looking out across Portofino’s two bays.

When you look around here and see the big chains insisting that they’re the best in class, what do you think?
By definition, not everybody can be at the top of the market but we’re focused on excellence. It’s a personal thing. Our guests are looking to see the world differently.

As the demographics of luxury travel change, who are your guests?
They continue to get younger. That doesn’t mean younger people are taking over our hotels, trains, boats or safaris – we just have more multi-generational travel and a more balanced demographic. We see a lot of younger travellers in pairs and families joining us. So it’s a mixed group.

How do you adapt your offering for a younger clientele who grew up in the digital age?
It’s a remarkable experience for them to truly disconnect. I’m not saying that when you come to our properties we take your phones and lock them away. We’re just giving people opportunities and they take them.
belmond.com

3.
The generous host
Sébastien Bazin, CEO, Accor

The French hotel boss on making it in hospitality and what’s next for the industry. 

Is everyone in travel moving at the same speed?
No. The world is in a rocky place and it won’t get much better over the next six months. Look at the EU, France and, of course, Russia, the US and China. Despite that, the world’s hospitality groups are seeing record numbers. I expect more of the same for 2025. It’s linked to the emerging middle classes but also to new opportunities in India, Africa and elsewhere.

Is it good for operations that not everything is booming at once?
When you open a hotel, you make a five-to-seven-year bet on a destination. If that market goes down for a couple of years, you don’t stop. Accor never leaves a country, even a war zone. You adapt and probably slow your growth but you’re committed to whatever you signed up to.

Accor is global but it’s also a French company. Does being French matter?
Let’s face it: half of the luxury products on Earth are of French origin. The way we do hospitality, dining and gastronomy all plays into a certain French way.

I’m keen to hear about Orient Express, your forthcoming luxury brand that includes trains, a yacht and a network of hotels.
It’s such a precious brand. It means Agatha Christie, libraries, film, garlands and perfume. We’re starting with three hotels: La Minerva in Rome, the Palazzo Donà Giovannelli in Venice and one in Istanbul. We managed to find [and restore] an original Orient Express train from 1928, which was lost in Poland. And we have decided to go into yachting.

How will that work?
Look at wealthy Americans. When they go to Europe, they always do the same thing: two days in Cannes, two days in Monaco, then Nice or St Tropez. I said, “Let’s bring a yacht to the airport and take them down the coast.” It will have 40 to 50 suites; we could have had 200 but we wanted to offer the same sense of luxury as having your own 80-metre boat. It will start sailing in 2026.

Accor hires people with no university qualifications. I recently met the GM of a leading hotel in Tokyo who started his career at 16 as a porter. Do we need more people like that?
Hospitality schools are important because you need expertise but half of the people we hire don’t come from that background. You need a good heart, a good stomach and a willingness to face the unknown.

Last question: are people having fun? I see bars closing early in many corners of the world right now.
Yes, we’re having fun but it depends on where you are. I spent a few years in San Francisco but was there recently and nobody was on the street. We’re playing hard in the Middle East: Dubai is a lot of fun and Abu Dhabi is getting to be. And we’re playing, of course, in southern Europe. If you accept the need to move and not stay in your comfort zone, you’ll have fun somewhere.
accor.com

Editor’s letter: Andrew Tuck’s escape Clause

Journalists at Monocle are fortunate to be given the opportunity to explore new horizons, to meet amazing people and hear their stories, to have their world views tested and, occasionally, to even bring home a retail gem (or two) for their own shelves. Over the years, monocle has taken me everywhere from ancient Baalbek and the craggy, Atlantic-battered Azores to thrumming Riyadh and the heart of modernist Brasilía. All of which can make it tricky to enjoy a simple holiday. When your day job involves dropping in on the mayor, gaining access to lesser-known architectural sites via your contacts and meeting the innovative entrepreneurs who make a city tick, you might be less keen to hit the tourist spots and thumb through badly written guidebooks whenever a real vacation opportunity arrives.

monocle readers are some of the most well-travelled people in the world, whether that’s for work, for family reunions or for unbridled fun. And when I meet them – you – I get the sense that they too operate a little like itinerant journalists. They research their missions with care and due diligence, ensuring that they know the people who are able to open doors to reveal the deeper workings of a city or nation. They want to stay in hotels that offer a sense of place and eat in the same restaurants as the locals. They want to feel like more than a visitor.

When it came to bringing back The Escapist to newsstands, we knew that it needed to offer more than just a parade of tropical islands and high-luxury outposts. It needed to have some of the enquiring rigour that goes into all of our reportage. And it needed to go behind the scenes to meet the players reshaping the travel industry.

Over the coming pages, we’ll whisk you away to Nagasaki (in the trusty hands of our Tokyo-based senior Asia editor, Fiona Wilson), as well as to the Mediterranean playground of Marbella. You’ll see a wishlist of places we would happily see on our own itinerary and get the skinny on what’s making headlines in the world of hospitality. You’ll also sit down with us as we chat to an ambitious airline chief, a hotel designer who understands nuanced luxury and an Italian brand that does peerless hosting. The Monocle Concierge – our in-house confidant who dispenses advice on Monocle Radio, at conferences and in our Monocle Weekend Edition email newsletter – also makes an appearance. Then there are our guides. We sent monocle writers and editors to crisscross Scotland to meet the creatives, hotel owners, food pioneers & more who are ensuring the upkeep of the nation’s craft, heritage and glorious landscapes. We also look to Hong Kong with a rundown of 50 reasons why you should visit and enjoy.

In short, we have you covered for 2024 and beyond. But we are always keen to hear from you, so let us know about the establishments and destinations that you think should be on our travel schedule. Wishing you safe travels and satiating adventures from all at monocle.

Direction of Travel

History in the making
Portugal’s industrial tourism

Holidays are often about the opportunity to encounter previously unseen, ready-made things. Think about it – you’re either appreciating a recently opened restaurant or the not-recent-at-all ruins of some ancient architectural wonder. You’re shopping for products in a place’s hip neighbourhood or looking at the art in its galleries. Aside from getting to know a destination’s residents, you’re usually there to appreciate its output, be it artistic or economic, old or new. Travelling is about indulging in the unique things that the place you’re visiting is famous for making. 

Yet how often do we get the chance to glimpse backstage to see how all of these things are actually made? Where and how the marble for that prized building is being extracted, for example, or how the threads on that elaborate carpet are woven, or the leather on the new pair of boots is stitched. In Portugal there’s a push to bring many of these industrial processes to share the spotlight with their end products in an initiative called Industrial Tourism.

As a correspondent in Portugal, I’ve reported on business stories up and down the country, visiting pencil & bicycle factories as well as towns famous for making ceramics, blowing glass and spinning wool. It’s a humbling experience to realise that behind every product there’s either an enormous, highly specialised, clanking piece of machinery or a dexterous set of hands.

That there are other people out there who, like me, have an interest in niche know-how is something I was aware of. What I didn’t know is that many busy industrial hubs are interested in welcoming visitors, with many hosting special events and guided tours that are open to all throughout the year.

In 2021, realising the potential of these manufacturing sites to boost regional economies, Turismo de Portugal launched an initiative to structure and promote the country’s industrial tourism offering by mobilising the corresponding regional entities and businesses – ranging from milliners and marble quarries to shoemakers and goldsmiths – to work together as part of a national strategy.

Today hundreds of industrial heritage sites make up a nationwide circuit, occasionally opening their doors to visitors. (It’s obviously unreasonable to expect employees to deal with the distraction of onlookers on a daily basis – and I have seen groups of foreigners gathering around conveyor belts like they would the Mona Lisa in Paris.) The strategy aligns with Turismo de Portugal’s wider ambitions, namely to combat the seasonality of the visitor economy and to attract people to places beyond all-too-famous Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve. The hope is that these factory visits might lead to lunch at a nearby restaurant and maybe even an overnight stay. In my case, I know that if I hadn’t visited the country’s famed bicycle-assembly centre in Anadia, Central Portugal, I would probably never have had the chance to try out the region’s famed and sumptuous suckling pig. 

“For businesses and brands that pride themselves on their green credentials, opening the doors of their factories reaffirms a commitment to transparency”

It follows that this type of tourism resonates with a contemporary audience, one that’s increasingly part of a click-to-receive global economy and feels more detached than ever from the means of production – and hence more interested and curious about it.

In places like Portugal, where the making of certain goods remains an artisanal affair, visiting these manufacturers can feel like going to a unique and intriguing kind of museum that not only displays an industrial past but, often, a more sustainable future. In a recent visit to Viarco’s factory, the last pencil- makers on the Iberian peninsula, I was able to see how ingenuity and skill kept production at this old-fashioned maker alive, even as competition from Asia grew.

For businesses and brands that pride themselves on their green credentials, opening the doors of their factories reaffirms a commitment to transparency. Such is the case with Portuguese label isto, which has been independently organising visits to its manufacturers up north for the past two years through an initiative it calls Factourism. The same can be said of the push by chefs to take their clientele to visit their suppliers, farmers and growers who do things in ethical ways and deserve the recognition and extra euros.

As for us, the holidaymakers, industrial tourism offers an opportunity to really get off the beaten path. Blame it on globalisation, social media or whatever other force but tourists seem to keep landing on the same spots while travelling.

Visits to industrial sights are a way of getting to know a different side of a destination, its entrails and at times the beating heart of its economy. And as I’ve found, these visits can be interesting, insightful and entertaining. They might pique your curiosity as to what else a region has to offer. If you’re lucky, they could even inspire a new business idea.

Spread your wings
Rethinking frequent-flyer rewards

For too long, frequent flyers have religiously adhered to alliances such as SkyTeam, Star Alliance or Oneworld, accumulating points on their domestic carriers and limiting themselves to the offerings of a narrow alliance on international flights. This approach confines travel experiences to a monochromatic spectrum, which is, frankly, dull.

It’s why recent changes in loyalty programmes in the US are now rewarding revenue and high-ticket spending rather than miles flown. For example, Delta Diamond status, once a milestone, now requires a $28,000 (€26,000) expenditure with the airline – a shift that has led to predictable consumer outcry and a flurry of social media debate. Yet the underlying message is clear: money talks.

These changes might take some getting used to but they present opportunities. The smart traveller has the chance to escape the diminishing returns of loyalty programmes and explore the industry’s diverse offerings. The business shift presents a compelling argument for adopting a free-agent stance, moving away from the relentless pursuit of status and gamifying of loyalty.

Embracing free-agent status opens up a world of choice: you can select flights based on convenience, cost and preference, sidestepping the stress associated with chasing status. This liberating approach broadens your access to a range of exceptional experiences.

Much of the airline industry gravitates towards mediocrity but there remain beacons of innovation, national pride and operational excellence. Choosing the optimal airline for each route rewards those who excel at every touchpoint.

Breaking free from a single carrier or alliance invites unique experiences. Imagine sipping from elegant Iittala Finnish glassware on Finnair, wrapped in a Marimekko blanket. Picture yourself at Cathay Pacific’s lounge in Hong Kong, relishing a bowl from its noodle bar. As a free agent, you can absorb the warmth and worldliness of Emirates’ flight attendants or inhale Alpine air on the outdoor deck of Zürich’s Swiss Lounge.

Adopting the free-agent approach champions a true free-market spirit. Your personal or corporate expenditure becomes a vote for innovation and superior service. If adopted en masse, this shift could compel airlines to continually elevate their offerings, ensuring that they cater to a discerning audience rather than relying on a captive customer base. It makes travel not just less mundane but more enriching too.

Hometown holiday
A Singapore staycation

For residents of its neighbouring countries, Singapore is a popular jaunt for a weekend of dining and shopping; for travellers coming from further away, it’s often a quick stopover on a grand tour of Southeast Asia. What brings these two groups together is that most visitors, unless they have family here, don’t allot more than a couple of days to its sights, and for many more it’s simply a transit point on a larger journey. As a resident of the city, this makes me curious whenever I encounter a bona fide tourist in Singapore: what brought them here? To place myself more empirically in their shoes, I booked a stay at a new hotel in town – the Mondrian Singapore Duxton, which opened in June. 

I packed a small suitcase and hailed a taxi to take me there. Part of the reason I chose the Mondrian was for its location in Duxton Hill. A mini-neighbourhood next to Chinatown, the area is full of great restaurants, bars, cafés and boutique stores. The streets are lined with colourful shophouses, in one of Singapore’s most historic architectural styles, and the area is walkable and leafy.

After checking in, I made straight for the rooftop with a book to read and ordered a strawberry daiquiri at the poolside bar. The infinity pool has a panoramic view of downtown Singapore and from that height you get a beautiful, bird’s-eye perspective of the twisting rows of orange-roofed shophouses. Seen together, the contrast between the two-storey shophouses and the gleaming silver-blue skyscrapers is quite arresting. I swam a few laps in the pool, nervously eyeing the dark grey stormcloud in the distance – as well as the numerous signs that warn guests to head indoors immediately if there’s any lightning; thankfully, that wasn’t necessary. I also made sure I spent some time observing my fellow guests.

Were they business travellers, tourists or perhaps fellow staycationers? Sipping my daiquiri, I overheard an American couple planning a trip to the Night Safari, the nocturnal component of the Singapore Zoo. I had been meaning to go but still hadn’t made it, and the pair’s excitement was infectious. So I resolved to purchase tickets at the next available opportunity. Then I headed back to my room, a corner suite, determined to make the most of my short stay.

“I also made sure I spent some time observing my fellow guests. Were they business travellers, tourists or perhaps fellow staycationers?”

I made myself a coffee and snacked on some freely provided kuih, an umbrella term for various colourful, gelatinous Malay cakes that are popular in Singapore and Malaysia. As a child growing up in Kuala Lumpur, I loved to eat them. I experienced a brief moment of nostalgic remembrance as I bit into the pillowy coconut-flaked rectangle. Once my reverie of sensation had concluded, I did some work on my laptop at the sleek in-room desk. Technically I was already hard at work collecting impressions for this story but I would have been remiss in not trying out the desk.

From my 11th-floor perch, I could see the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, a huge red-and-white Chinese Buddhist complex with slate-grey roofs, which I had passed many times but never entered. I researched it online and learnt that despite its imposing traditional build – it was styled on Tang Dynasty temples – the structure was only completed in 2007. The temple is open to visitors (no miniskirts, pets or non-vegetarian food allowed) and even has a museum. It was another place I had overlooked and would have to visit soon.

In the evening, I went down to the third floor for dinner at Bottega di Carna, an Italian restaurant where the menu is written by Tuscan butcher-chef Dario Cecchini. The Mondrian is known for its emphasis on art and design, and the restaurant is accordingly impressive: a lofty space with calligraphy-ink ceiling murals, delightful angular chairs and a large Tracey Emin piece glowing against one of the walls.

Later in the evening, I returned to the rooftop for one last look at the city skyline. The pool lights were on and the water gleamed enticingly; beyond it, the high-rise buildings sparkled with light and the sky was clear enough so that I could see the moon and even a few stars. I live on the ground floor, so I rarely see Singapore from this vantage; it was a lovely sight.

The next morning, a better person might have made use of the hotel’s well-equipped gym before checking out, especially after such a decadent dinner – but I am not that person. Instead, I enjoyed an early breakfast. The Mondrian has a sensible semi-buffet with a menu of hot dishes. I ordered some scallion noodles with crispy bacon, nori and a fried egg, which went well with the eccentric assortment of foods I gathered at the buffet, of which I will spare you the details. I left the hotel with a fresh sense of the city I lived in and a checklist of places to explore – not to mention a full stomach.

Local authorities
How to get off the beaten track

The best travel tips come when you keep your eyes fixed on the wall – as long as it’s plastered with posters. No coffee-shop stop should miss out the noticeboard that’s thick with thumb tacks pinning postcard-sized ads. Poorly photocopied neighbourhood newsletters filling a newspaper rack? I’ll take three. Nicking flyers tucked under the windscreen wipers of unsuspecting cars isn’t beneath me either.

Once assembled, this cache yields the kinds of tips only gleaned from media that’s geared to locals. Most of us aspire to transcend the tourist stereotype for that platonic ideal of the traveller who blends into their destination. Hoovering up any scraps of paper hyping the latest neighbourhood art exhibit, concert or restaurant two-for-one special is one of the best ways to achieve tourist-to-local nirvana.

This strategy is a variation on the sage advice of Roman Mars, host of design podcast 99% Invisible, to always read a plaque on your historical walking tour – yes, you should always learn which obscure political figure lent their name to the park you’re in. But if you want to know what to do after your day of sightseeing, always read the poster on the telephone pole inside the park.

Even in the age of online marketing, street advertising remains an effective hyperlocal means of publicity. Smartphone users are drowning in information to the point of tuning out the digital flotsam clogging their effort to just check the weather or make a phone call. But if you’re standing at a corner waiting for the light to turn, you can’t help but notice the flyer informing you of the comedy show taking place later that night just around the corner.

I can’t guarantee that heeding a crude poster’s admonitions will lead to a better dose of culture than following some carefully curated newspaper recommendation but I can guarantee that you’re more likely to stumble into a scene you weren’t imagining. In Auckland, a flyer led me on a long train ride out to a festival. Beloved Kiwi reggae band Salmonella Dub was fairly substandard but the journey was worth it for seeing New Zealand’s neo-hippies in full regalia. In the French Caribbean collectivity of Saint Martin, I once sat through a secondary school theatre production dramatising the life of Congolese anti-colonial independence leader Patrice Lumumba. Not exactly Comédie-Française material but more instructive about French overseas identity than a day at the beach.

“Even in the age of online event marketing, street advertising remains an effective hyper-local means of publicity”

It helps, of course, if you can read the local language. My penchant was put to the test on a recent trip to Kyoto when I popped into the neighbourhood onsen. Soaking in the thermal waters blissfully phone-free, I had nothing but time to decipher the wall ads. I don’t read kanji but careful deduction of a poster with an exterior building photo, a simple map and a few dates and numbers printed in English suggested that the café around the corner from our rented machiya was celebrating its first anniversary with live music. Sure enough, my wife and I strolled in the next night for a warm neighbourhood gathering. It was, as they say, a local’s secret.

Why I’ll never abandon ship
In praise of cruises

The word “travel” is derived from the French term for work: “travail”. It’s fitting because, though travel can be relaxing once you get to your destination, it can be an ordeal, particularly if you fly.

Even so, many of us still wander to satisfy our curiosity, as a means of escape or for amusement. I’m a compulsive traveller but I detest going anywhere on a plane or a bus and only barely tolerate long car journeys. But put me on a quality train or ship and my vacation’s already on before I’ve moved a mile.

I live in Florida and prefer to spend most of my holidays abroad because, no matter how far I travel stateside, I don’t feel as lost as I would like. As I can’t board a train to anywhere that will give me the dopamine hit that comes from being in unfamiliar environments, cruises are a great way for me to escape without having to endure the indignities of flying: the cramped seats, searches, endless delays, bad food and strangers sitting too close.

I’ve never been on a cruise that didn’t depart and arrive on time. If I don’t like a dish I’m served, I order something else. If I do like it, I still often order something else because indulgence at sea is almost mandatory. Some travellers look down on cruising as shallow and environmentally irresponsible. Others, like the writer Lauren Oyler, go even further. In a recent essay for Harper’s, she insisted that cruises should be illegal. Missing from her 10,000-word critique is evidence that she took the time to meet any of the crew members she’d like to send to the unemployment queue. Contrary to popular belief, there are good cruise lines out there. I recommend the Princess and Celebrity lines if you want a standard of service you’re unlikely to find on land. Hotels barely want to clean your room these days, let alone pamper you the way high-quality cruise lines do. And unless you get invited to the UN General Assembly, you won’t find a more international environment than a cruise ship. For example, on a recent Celebrity cruise, I met crew members from 36 countries, so I didn’t just learn about our ports but many of their home countries too. 

“Unless you get invited to the UN General Assembly, you won’t find a more international environment than that of a cruise ship”

I’m currently researching eight Caribbean islands I’ll visit on a forthcoming cruise. I won’t have time to see these places thoroughly but I can always return to the ones that grab me. I also have two teenagers and they relish the freedom of roaming the ship on their own and hanging out in the teen clubs. 
Princess, Celebrity and other high-end cruise lines are also investing millions to become more environmentally responsible. For example, 85 per cent of the waste used on Celebrity ships is recycled, repurposed or sent to a waste-to-energy facility.

According to a recent State of the Cruise Industry poll, 85 per cent of people who go on a cruise return for more. Marcel Proust once said, “A change in the weather is sufficient to recreate the world and ourselves.” I feel the same way on the deck of a gleaming white cruise ship, with the wind in my hair and the prospect of a new port, and a chance to reinvent myself, every day. 

Gravy trains
Delight in the dining car

It’s hard to resist the draw of the dining car. At a time when pre-packaged meals and plastic cutlery seem to be the only options when eating on the go, European intercity trains are fighting back with white tablecloths, quality coffee poured into porcelain cups and draught beer in thick glass tankards. Regardless of your seating class, warm service and cooked-to-order dishes remain a timeless part of rail travel.

Railroad diners were first pioneered in the US and then popularised in the UK but it is in Europe that they have now become a staple on the humble commuter train. Whereas these restaurants on rails have largely disappeared elsewhere (either by disuse or because of the coronavirus pandemic), in Europe they have endured as stalwarts of a bygone era – and their value and charm should be cherished and preserved.

When done right, the dining car can whet business travellers’ appetite for rail journeys instead of air travel. Comfort and efficiency, combined with the right service and a well-timed connection, can make all the difference. A work trip from Frankfurt to Milan, or Ljubljana to Vienna, is swift and scenic, while the food menus on these lines are up to scratch too. Travelling directly from one city centre to another allows more time for work or play (instead of waiting for terminal shuttles and security checks). And upon stepping off the train, one feels immediately plugged into the life of a city.

“In this region, culinary traditions transcend national borders, so it’s quite appropriate to try them on the move”

Sit down, relax and munch on bircher muesli as you descend from the snowcapped Alps to blooming Basel on IC 264, or feast on moreish honey-and-walnut cake with the stunning backdrop of the Slovak Tatra Mountains on EC 242 Kosican. Don’t miss out on a crispy schnitzel as you cross from Germany to Czechia on EC 176 Berliner. Have you sampled the revered Kaiserschmarrn sweet pancakes on the Austrian öbb or the warming goulash on the Hungarian máv? In this region, culinary traditions transcend national borders, so it’s quite appropriate to try them on the move.

But it’s not just the food – dining car interiors are wonderfully varied. The Blå Tåget, or Blue Train, which runs between Gothenburg and Stockholm, lives up to its name with navy upholstered banquette seating and interiors reminiscent of those from the 1960s. The menu features crayfish salad and veal meatballs with mashed potato. Then there’s the panoramic dining car on the EC 8 from Zürich to Köln, which has generous windows and circular tables. Here you can order cheese platters accompanied by a delectable wine selection as the mountains roll by. Whichever the line, wherever your destination, there’s no finer way to get from A to B than with a meal and a view. 

Generations to come
Pit-stops of the future

Networks of timber structures arching over ultra-fast charging stations for electric vehicles are mushrooming along highways and in cities across Scandinavia. Architecture studio Cobe has already built 11 stations in Denmark with plans to add dozens more across the region. Cobe’s founder and head architect, Dan Stubbergaard, here explains how his studio is reimagining the classic rest stop as a place to recharge EVs (and their drivers too).

“In five year’s time, most people will have an electric car. When Cobe was tasked with designing a concept for future charging stations for the charging point operator Clever, I wanted to create a place for people, not just cars. Those 20 minutes spent recharging your vehicle shouldn’t only consist of buying a Coca-Cola and a hot dog; we wanted to create an environment where you can have a meaningful break. A place to sit on the bench, exercise, watch the kids play football.

We came up with a modular system of tree-like canopies, which adapt to different scales of charging stations. I call them cathedral charging stations because of the feeling of standing under the landscape of canopies.

The key to these canopies is that we can compose them in different ways and adapt them to the local topography. We can create a linear station, a compact station or a ring of chargers with an inner courtyard space.

We try to work with the landscape. The plants and tree species on site are selected in collaboration with the Danish Society for Nature Conservation, with a focus on local trees and plants. For instance, in the autumn drivers can recharge the cars while kids go to pick blueberries. We have many more to build and we’re learning as we go but this project shows how architecture and design can create spaces for meaningful experiences and help us change our behaviour towards a better future.”

Charm offensive
The thrill of the chase

Whereas some parts of Europe are trying to limit visitors due to overtourism, countries in Eastern Europe such as Estonia and Slovenia are staging stunts and running campaigns to attract more travellers. One city that has mastered the art of a risqué tourism push is Vilnius. 

In a bid to become famous – or at the very least, less unknown – the capital of Lithuania ran a bold campaign in 2018, describing Vilnius as, “The G-spot of Europe. Nobody knows where it is but when you find it – it’s amazing.” The campaign ruffled feathers, partly because it directly preceded Pope Francis’s visit to Lithuania. But it worked: visitors to Vilnius increased by 12.5 per cent during the campaign, with a particular upswing in the number of German and British tourists. 

As Vilnius marked its 700th anniversary in 2023, the city continued to poke fun at its knack for flying under the radar with a retro 1980s-style infomercial about belated birthday cards: “It’s not that I didn’t remember, it’s just that I didn’t know you existed.” 

Just add water
Airports’ hydration stations

Airport water refill station designed to reduce single-use plastic consumption

In an attempt to reduce single-use plastic, airports worldwide are getting better at providing water stations for passengers to refill their own bottles instead of paying for an overpriced litre in the departure lounge. Environmentally conscious EU officials passing through Brussels Airport can top up at a large multi-tap kiosk, while Geneva Airport boasts that its handsome water fountains dispense l’eau de Genève.

Some airports are banning the sale of plastic water bottles outright. San Francisco International became the first to do so in 2019, while in 2023 Los Angeles (lax) followed suit. To accommodate this change, lax installed 60 hydration stations instead. “Eliminating single-use plastic water bottles is the right thing for our airports, our communities and our environment,” said Justin Erbacci, chief executive of Los Angeles World Airports.

Just six years ago, more than half of the UK’s international airports did not have free drinking water fountains. It was a similar story in other parts of the world. Crowdsourced campaigns, such as UK-based Water at Airports, have helped to change that. Some terminals now provide the organisation with maps showing the location of their fountains, turning its website into a handy resource.

Perhaps someday, every airport will have a bar à eau such as the one in the lobby of the Ibis hotel at Paris’s Charles de Gaulle (cdg). It offers free refills of micro- filtered water, with a choice of still, sparkling, semi-sparkling and hot. It’s a nice touch for an airport hotel. And even better if cdg and its counterparts elsewhere do the same for their dehydrated passengers. 

Do it yourself
How to charter a private jet

Chartering a private jet can be a confusing process, especially for those who are new to it. With dozens of different business models available, many potential surprise fees and hundreds of operators that might have global coverage or simply specialise in light jets within a very specific region, it can all be a bit of a minefield.

That said, the whole thing can be stress-free and straightforward if you know where to look. Frequent travellers who don’t own their jet will likely opt for subscription services or fractional ownership schemes that entitle them to a certain number of hours in the air. For the more occasional private flyer, however, here are some options.

Call a ‘fixed fleet’ operator
These are something like on-demand private airlines, with their own fleet of jets at the ready. You might find that there’s an operator like this which can act as a go-to. If so, get in touch, outline your requirements and the operator will determine whether it can offer you transport and at what price.

Vistajet is a good place to look first because of its truly global reach. It utilises a fleet of Bombardier Globals so you’ll know exactly what you’ll be getting every time. And if you find that you’re flying more than 25 hours a year and want to level up to a membership, it’s relatively seamless to get set up (and cash in on some benefits and perks). 

Find a broker or firm that has access to a trusted network of operators
These can offer more flexibility as they work with a variety of private operators, meaning that there’s a higher likelihood that they’ll have what you need when and where you need it. But it’s important to find the correct firm from the outset – one that works only with high-quality operators and has strict standards for its partners. This can take much of the hassle out of the process. Simply ping your broker and get set up with a flight. Magellan Jets is a reputable company and a good place to start.

Empty legs
If budget is a concern then it can be worth hunting around for “empty leg” offerings. Aircraft often need to position empty from one city to another to pick up a client, so many operators will try to fill those planes, often at a steep discount. The downside? A relatively fixed departure time and city pairing. But if it works out, you’ll fly private at a fraction of the cost. Another issue is the lack of a centralised firm offering global empty legs. There are various websites and mobile apps attempting to make this work, however, and there will no doubt be improvements in the coming years. For starters, check out Jettly and Fly XO. 

Days of wine and roses
Finding bliss in Canada’s vineyards

Sitting on a terrace, overlooking the wonder of a 135km-long lake surrounded by rolling hills, while drinking the local wine. That’s how I choose to spend a sweltering summer day in Canada’s Okanagan Valley. Towns in this verdant valley in British Columbia host much of the province’s wine industry, making the region a hotspot for tourists and residents alike.

It’s not the place you would expect to find such an industry due to Canada’s famously harsh winters, but many internationally trained winemakers make excellent use of the 4,400 hectares of lush vineyards in the region. Trips to Okanagan Valley were a mainstay of my childhood while growing up in neighbouring Alberta’s frigid prairies. The wineries, in addition to the warm summers and mild (by Canadian standards) winters, always drew my family back.

As an adult, I became interested in the area for both its natural beauty and its career opportunities. After visiting regularly, I decided to take the leap and ended up calling this valley my home after relocating to the city of Kelowna in 2020.

Moving to Okanagan Valley’s largest city to pursue a teaching career, I found myself becoming enamoured with the area’s wine industry. I loved meeting the talented people running the region’s wineries and it wasn’t long before I was employed in one, while visiting many more and discovering a whole new family in the process. After unearthing what the valley had to offer, I made a change, dove headfirst into the wine business and haven’t regretted it for a minute.

Thanks to new friends and a push from my partner to expand my knowledge of wine, this time of upheaval is something that I will always be grateful for. I might go on other adventures and live elsewhere in my life but I will always return to this truly unique place for everything it has given to me.

High spirits
Cocktails at 35,000 feet

After the inevitable rush to the airport, the interminable queuing to get through security and border control, then finally the boarding process, there is nothing quite like an elevated night-time cocktail (writes Sorrel Moseley-Williams). When flying, I relish the introspective state that the passenger cabin’s anonymity affords and savour the lack of social or business interactions. I forgo any anxious attempt to get online.

“I relish the introspective state that the passenger cabin’s anonymity affords and savour the lack of social or business interactions”

A gin and tonic truly freshens up my travel-weary palate, with its effervescence that adds a little more vigour. A decent and zesty juniper-based spirit dampens the indignity of an economy-class meal. Throw on a pair of noise-cancelling headphones and I feel as though I might have been upgraded.

My choice for a more potent concoction is the hanky panky. As I savour the aromatic cocktail in close proximity to the clouds, I feel like I’ve been transported back in time and could be at The Savoy in London, with Ada Coleman serving up her creation of gin, sweet vermouth and Fernet-Branca. 

Relaxing over a well-made drink is an art form in itself. It’s a moment of indulgence that demands a pause to be taken. Without any distractions, sipping on a high-altitude cocktail brings instant pleasure no matter the class of seat that you’re sitting in. 

Luberon, France

You know you have an identity issue when even the residents of a region argue over how exactly to pronounce it: Lub-eh-ron or Lub-ur-on? And is there a definite article? However people answer, (“The”) Luberon is an inland chunk of Provence that’s still overlooked by those outside France. Many are unaware of its rugged hilltop villages and forests nestled in the foothills of the French Prealps. This discretion and undiscovered allure is one reason why the region has become home to some of the country’s greatest under-the-radar retreats and hotels – best-kept secrets that an increasingly clued-up crowd are clamouring to see.

Luberon’s Provençal offering is easy to envisage: think sun-warmed rocks and craggy hills above fields of lavender, olive groves and little hamlets of stone-built houses and rustic châteaux. Hiking and biking trails wind across the countryside, a protected Unesco Global Geopark and biosphere. We don’t recommend rushing here in the height of summer. During the busier weeks and the school holidays, the region’s small towns and quaint villages bend under the weight of the crowds. Instead, Luberon is best enjoyed in splendid isolation.

You’ll find great regional variety between the department of Vaucluse and neighbouring Alpes-de-Haute-Provence to the east. Ancient village Ansouis looks up to a château that presides over the valley below, while sunlight in Roussillon paints the houses in a flame-licked ochre hue as it hits the cliffs and quarries. There are no cars in Oppède le Vieux and within the conservation area there are bike trails to magnificent panoramas skirted by cedars, umbrella pines and dry stone walls.

monocle‘s first stop is La Ferme Hi Bride in Villelaure, a 30-minute drive north of the city of Aix-en-Provence. Owners Patrick Elouarghi and Philippe Chapelet are no strangers to daring projects. Teaming up with their long-time collaborator, designer Matali Crasset, the trio embarked on a mission to rethink and upgrade contemporary agritourism.

The result? A striking blend of orange, turquoise and violet walls in a structure encircled by olive groves and vineyards, with an island pool perfect for sunbathing. There, at the end of the day, it’s not uncommon to share a drink with the owners or to join a lesson in permaculture – a way of thinking about and preserving the natural world – led by a local specialist who helps to manage the grounds and garden. Villelaure is a fertile corner of Luberon known for its agricultural abundance. La Ferme Hi Bride is the best way to experience its growing movement without getting your hands dirty.

Six kilometres northeast of Villelaure is Ansouis and its beloved Bar des Sports, a small café whose seats spill out onto a cobbled square and that everyone has at some point dreamed of taking over. It’s in this inauspicious village that the Paris-based Beaumier group, under ceo Éric Dardé, bought a patch of land and opened three hotels within a few kilometres of one another, in an old mill, an estate and a bastide (small country house), respectively.

Let’s begin at Capelongue, in Bonnieux. The property is designed to feel like a village in itself, with a café and a central square with a stone fountain, as well as 57 rooms and suites that celebrate local craftsmanship and natural materials in items such as ochre headboards, ceramic lights and straw chairs. “Capelongue is an extensive estate with several buildings constructed at different times,” says Marine Delaloy, co-founder of Marseille-based architecture studio Jaune. “Everything is inspired by tradition but always seeks to avoid Provençal pastiche.”

The same team also gave shape to Le Moulin Hotel in Lourmarin, a village dear to author Albert Camus, who lived and is interred here. This time Jaune turned an 18th-century olive oil mill into beautiful accommodation. Things here are a subtle neo-Provençal style, dominated by white, lighter shades of ochre and natural earthy tones throughout. Suite 101 overlooks the castle and the Luberon massif beyond. Straw and terracotta tiles are complemented by Aubagne pottery from Ravel and woven straw chairs from furniture studio Éditions Midi. Nearby is Le Galinier Villa, a guest house and apartments that has been beautifully renovated for private rental.

Between visits to the postcard-pretty villages perched on natural pedestals across the Luberon valley, make time for a stroll through L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Nestled between Luberon, Ventoux and Alpilles and known locally as the “Little Venice” of Vaucluse, this commune has been tempting antique dealers, collectors, artisans and artists for some 60 years. Here you’ll get a sense of the commerce of this quiet region. Throughout the year, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue brings together about 300 exhibitors. Each market stall, vendor and street has its own specialities, from industrial lighting and ceramics to furniture. Based in Village des Antiquaires de la Gare, a former industrial building now home to about 100 exhibitors, is the 50 Cinquante gallery. Owners Thibaud Ayasse and Floriane Chavinier are experts in 20th-century design, particularly pieces by Charlotte Perriand. The showroom is the sort of spot where you might stumble across a Jean Prouvé table, Serge Mouille lighting or Roger Tallon cutlery, alongside a Pierre Chapo bookshelf or Roger Capron vase.

For a sense of the scale and natural bounty of Luberon, climb the peaks of the Chaîne des Alpilles. In nearby Sivergues is Domaine du Castellas, a vast estate that stretches across more than 100 hectares. From this large 18th-century farmhouse nestled in the hills of the Grand Luberon, you can enjoy a panorama from east to west, with views from the Alps to the Ardèche, all in the company of the farm’s goats and chickens. Here, guests are encouraged to engage with the countryside and its working rhythms. You’re welcome to fetch your own eggs from the henhouse, as well as help to milk the goats or tend the vegetable patch (all optional, of course). If you’re not spending the night, then at least have lunch at one of the lengthy wooden tables laden with fresh vegetables from the farm and nearby growers. This is a place to eat fresh: crisp garden salads, potatoes, spring onions, broad beans, peas, herbs laced with edible flowers, strawberries and other seasonal wonders from the orchard or the kitchen garden.

For a taste of something altogether different (and perhaps best saved for the final treat of your trip), try Restaurant L’Oustau de Baumanière. One of the best-known restaurants in Alpilles, its history dates back to the middle of the 20th century. It won its first Michelin Star in 1949 and hasn’t looked back since. Artists such as Jean Cocteau and Pablo Picasso, and actor Sacha Guitry have been regulars in times past and plenty of politicians and royalty have settled into the dining room or the terrace.

L’Oustau recently regained its three-Michelin-star status thanks to chef prodigy Glenn Viel. Today the restaurant sees a fresh clientele arrive for every service, which makes it excellent for people-watching. Expect a mix of relaxed regulars, the local well-dressed bourgeoisie and more than a few star-chasing fines gueules. The cellar holds more than 50,000 bottles, including those from the estate of L’Oustau’s owner, chef Jean-André Charial. After lunch, a siesta by the pool will be in order. Unless, of course, you opt to spend the night in one of the estate’s 53 rooms. And who could blame you?

So if the only image you have of Luberon is that of quiet villages, olive groves and endless fields of lavender (perhaps inspired by a fashion campaign by designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, an evangelist for the region), then now might be the time to expand your horizons. You might trip up on its pronunciation but no matter what they say – or how – Luberon is well worth the journey.

Best-Laid Plans

The Monocle Concierge is our tailored travel service for top tips, off-the-radar finds and delectable recommendations. Whether you’re interested in seeing your favourite city afresh or seeking inspiration for journeys to new shores, our editors have ideas aplenty. Here, we share a few questions from readers and the Concierge’s insightful itineraries. Let’s go!

1.
Florence & Lake Como

Dear Concierge,
Any tips for Florence and its environs or the Lake Como area would be most gratefully received.

Kind regards,
Martha Black,
USA

Dear Martha,

When it comes to accommodation, we suggest Numeroventi, which is based in a 16th-century palazzo in the heart of Florence. Its modern interiors owe as much to Scandinavian minimalism as they do to Medici-era largesse. Eat at Enoteca Bruni, which boasts one of Italy’s best-stocked natural-wine cellars, before checking out the city’s ateliers. Antica Occhialeria produces stylish eyewear, Moleria Locchi makes decorative drinking vessels and vases, and Castorina 1895 is an ideal stop for elegant wooden décor. For a day trip, head west to Lucca, where Giglio and its sister bistro, Gigliola, are our top tips for lunch.

On Lake Como, skip the crowded Bellagio but don’t miss the ferry ride along the lake’s shore. And be sure to stop by the pretty town of Varenna. The botanical gardens at Villa Cipressi and Villa Monastero are wonderful for a calming stroll, especially in spring.

Across the lake, the gardens of Villa Carlotta and Villa del Balbianello are worthwhile too. Lake Como is home to one of Italy’s most glorious new hotels, the Passalacqua in Moltrasio, which transformed an 18th-century private residence into a resort with antique glamour. Bookings reopen in March.

2.
Rio de Janeiro

Dear Concierge,
What are your recommendations for sexy Rio de Janeiro?

Thank you,
Florencia Gonzalez Deibe,
Mexico

Dear Florencia,

Sizzling Rio drips with sultry appeal day and night. Wake up with a morning dip: Ipanema’s Posto 9 remains the see-and-be-seen stretch of beach. It’s a short stroll from the Alalaô Kiosk, which serves delicious sundowners and has injected a much-needed dose of high design into the beachfront promenade by Brazilian modernist architect Roberto Burle Marx. After your drinks, retire to the seaside elegance of the Hotel Fasano Rio. If you prefer sweeping vistas, head for the hills and pitch up poolside at the Santa Teresa Hotel.

The city boasts more than its fair share of excellent restaurants to help you fuel up before a night out on the town. Tuck in to a modern interpretation of Italian cuisine at Sult in the Botafogo neighbourhood or sample some fine seafood at the white-walled Restaurante Escama near the botanical garden. If you want local dishes, we recommend the contemporary Brazilian cuisine at Lilia in the city centre. For cocktails, try the Arp Bar at Hotel Arpoador or join the fashionable set gathering for film-themed libations at Liz Cocktails & Co in Leblon.

After loosening up, head to the bohemian Lapa district, where you’ll find packed dancefloors most nights of the week at several 19th-century venues famous for Brazilian music, from samba de gafieira to forró. We can vouch for Rio Scenarium, Bar Carioca da Gema and Clube dos Democráticos. On a Monday evening, take a taxi further west to the Renascença Clube for the weekly samba do trabalhador to experience Rio’s music in a traditional communal setting.

3.
Seattle

Dear Concierge,
My wife and I are planning a three-day stopover in Seattle on our way to see family on Maui. Which district should we stay in? Can you also suggest any boutique hotels, restaurants and places of interest that aren’t full of tourists?

Kind regards,
Stuart Pearce,
Sweden

Dear Stuart,

Fortunately, Downtown Seattle’s hotels are rather good. Try out Palihotel or The State for digs in historic brick buildings or check in to Thompson Seattle for something more contemporary (its rooftop bar, The Nest, is excellent too). South Korean brand Lotte’s second stateside hotel is renowned for its crisp service. It’s just a block from the Rem Koolhaas-designed Central Library.

Start your day at Monorail Espresso’s kiosk, then slip past the crowds at Pike Place Market in favour of our top food stops: Bacco Cafe for Dungeness crab Benedict; JarrBar for hors d’oeuvres and aperitifs; Sushi Kashiba for omakase; and Zig Zag Café for a nightcap. Head to The Crocodile in nearby Belltown for live entertainment and venture north to Ballard for shopping and dining (check out all-day café Sabine).

The neighbourhood’s fishing boats might look familiar to you because they’re from Norway. Once a Scandinavian immigrant destination, the Ballard area is now home to the National Nordic Museum. Don’t miss the Ballard Locks, an engineering marvel.

Wander northeast from Downtown and you’ll soon reach Capitol Hill, home to the city’s best bookshop, Elliott Bay Book Company, and the charming dining spot Oddfellows. Melrose Market and Chophouse Row are worth your while too. Walk south to Pioneer Square and a clutch of art galleries. For a day trip, take a Washington State Ferry to the charming Bainbridge Island.

4.
Hokkaido

Dear Concierge,
We are thinking of heading to Hokkaido and exploring the island solely by public transport. We would love to hear about any local gastronomy secrets and lesser-known cultural or nature sites that are worth visiting.

Thank you,
Clannah Goh,
Singapore

Dear Clannah,

Japan’s northernmost island, which makes up about a fifth of the country’s total landmass, is well worth a trip for its wild, open spaces, climate and fields of wheat, lavender and grazing cows. Hokkaido’s most remote spots will be out of reach to anyone without a car but there is still plenty to see. You will probably arrive at Sapporo, so spend a night at the hot-spring hotel Yuen Sapporo and pick up some walking gear (and an all-important bear bell) at outdoor outfitter Shugakuso. The ursine population in Hokkaido is rather large and not to be trifled with.

Shugakuso’s noticeboard is filled with excursions: think guided Nordic walking, trail walking and canoeing. If you want to learn about the history of the Ainu, Hokkaido’s indigenous people, visit Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park, which is accessible by train from Sapporo. In the other direction, the city of Asahikawa is home to some of Japan’s best wooden furniture-makers, while Biei is a small town that has become a major culinary attraction, celebrated for its rolling landscape and bountiful fresh produce. Book a room and a table at Hokuei Komugi no Oka (Hokuei Wheat Hill), a restaurant, hotel and educational cooking complex based in a former school.

Finally, head to the rugged wilderness of Daisetsuzan, Hokkaido’s largest national park, which boasts soaring volcanic peaks, deer and plenty of those famous bears. Don’t forget that this is onsen (hot-spring) territory. A soothing bath is never far away – just check for bears before you get in.

5.
Vienna

Dear Concierge,
I will be visiting Vienna for its museums, good food and beer. What are your suggestions?

Thank you,
Cédric Jamet,
France

Dear Cédric,

You can’t go wrong in the city’s Museumsquartier. It has good architecture and urbanism, plus contemporary art and canvases by Austria’s fin de siècle favourites Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt. The Kunsthistorisches Museum across the street sports the world’s largest Bruegel collection. Cross the majestic Burggarten and you’ll find the Albertina Museum, full of works by the French impressionists and the Russian avant-garde.

You’ll need to keep your strength up so grab a käsekrainer (cheese sausage) from one of Vienna’s many street-corner stands. For something more substantial, book a dinner at Skopik & Lohn, which serves sensational Viennese food with a modern twist. The wiener schnitzel with potato salad is unsurprisingly superb. When it comes to beer, you are spoilt for choice: it’s everywhere. For a relaxed ambience and good music, we recommend the Neubau area in the seventh district, which begins right behind the Museumsquartier. Café Europa in the Zollergasse is a monocle favourite. Just in time for your visit, a new bar-cum-gallery called Atlas has opened in the Neustiftgasse. Gute Reise!

Planning your next trip?

monocle’s editors have crisscrossed the globe for more than 15 years. As such, our book of contacts, faultless restaurants, lesser-known hotels and off-the-map escapes is full of recommendations. Every week we answer a reader’s travel request in the Saturday instalment of The Monocle Weekend Edition. Sign up to our newsletters at
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