As southern Europe swelters under increasingly hot summers, holidays spent in the north (or so-called “coolcations”) are becoming more appealing than ever. Tucked into the shores of the Baltic Sea, the Estonian town of Pärnu – located less than a two-hour drive from the capital Tallinn – offers a summer getaway with sandy beaches, crisp sea air and a relaxed lifestyle that has long been a well-kept secret among locals and neighbouring nations.
Aptly nicknamed the country’s “summer capital”, Pärnu has drawn Estonian sunseekers for more than two centuries. Now Finns, Latvians, Swedes and a growing number of Germans are also flocking to its coastline in the summer months – but the destination remains refreshingly under the radar of most international tourists. As Janeli Tehver, marketing manager at the Hedon Spa & Hotel, puts it: “We are seeing more and more global visitors but Pärnu still feels distinctly local. That means guests get a truly authentic experience.”
Authenticity is indeed one of Pärnu’s greatest charms. Unlike many overdeveloped European resorts where there are scant signs of regional culture, this town still feels lived-in and loved by its people. The rhythm is unhurried, and its scale is walkable with green parks and the sea never far away.
The main draw is its beach – a wide stretch of warm sand that wouldn’t feel out of place in the Balearic Islands. A paved promenade runs the length of the waterfront, linking some of Estonia’s most stylish seaside hangouts. At one end of the trail you’ll find Junimperium Beach Bar – run by the eponymous Tallinn gin distillery – serves crisp cocktails with a view of the dunes. Ice cream kiosks and easy-going taverns dot the path, while the shore swings from laid-back sunbathing to live-music events as the day slips into evening. For a refined dinner, Nordic restaurant Raimond at Hedon Spa & Hotel offers sea-to-table dishes with fresh, local produce. “It’s not just about a spa stay,” says Tehver. “We create an atmosphere. People come here to unplug, reconnect and eat well.”
Pärnu’s identity as a wellness destination is no accident. The town’s spa history dates back to 1838, when the first seawater bathing house opened its doors. A century later, modernist hotels and sanatoriums were added – including the iconic Rannahotell, a gleaming white functionalist building that remains a pearl against the dunes. Built in 1937, the hotel’s construction was initiated by Estonia’s then-president, Konstantin Päts, and became a symbol of the nation’s youthful modernity. “This place has soul,” says Oliver Paasik, Rannahotell’s general manager. “People say that it’s like stepping back in time but with all the comforts of today.” Though the hotel doesn’t have a spa – “We’re surrounded by them,” says Paasik – the neighbouring Hedon Spa & Hotel offers everything from serene pools to mud treatments using mineral-rich peat sourced from Estonian islands.
Events such as Pärnu Music Festival bring jazz, classical and indie acts to the town’s leafy parks and art-deco theatres, while summer nights buzz with open-air cinema screenings, food festivals and pop-up dance floors. As a sign of the resort’s vitality, on the day that Monocle visits, a €50m seaside hotel development is announced – the largest Pärnu has ever seen.
Northern summers might be short (June to August is prime time) but they’re all the sweeter for it. Temperatures hover around a pleasant 25C, and the waters of the Baltic Sea feel reinvigorating and crisp. But Pärnu’s charm goes beyond its agreeable climate. It has to do with the sense of discovery that many popular Mediterranean beach resorts lost in the wake of mass tourism. Exploration is at the heart of why people travel and in Pärnu that feeling is alive and well.
Though visitors escaping Spanish or Greek temperatures haven’t started arriving in droves (“Not yet,” says Tehver), the sentiment is growing. “As southern Europe gets hotter, people will look north. It’s only a matter of time,” she says. Paasik agrees, albeit with a chuckle. “We’ve joked that it’s Estonia’s best-kept secret. So maybe don’t tell too many people.”
Sorry about that.
