Don’t confuse lighting with atmosphere. Meet Thierry, your ‘chef d’ambience’
You’re going to have to help me with this one. Whatever did we do before the arrival of the LED table lamp? How did we read restaurant menus before it was possible for a swooping waiter to, with a dramatic three taps atop a spindly downlighter, lower the glare to something mimicking candlelight? The table lamp has become so essential to the global dining experience that it is near impossible to walk into a cosy bar, neighbourhood bistro or sprawling hotel dining room without encountering a little forest of lamps.
The arrival of the breadbasket used to mark the start of lunch or dinner but with F&B types now bored of their truffle butter, nut spreads and long olive oil pours, the table lamp has become the hospitality industry’s obsession. I believe the original idea was to create small pools of light at a time when there was little in the way of overhead illumination. Over time, as tastes changed, the table lamp was a punctuation point in a dimly lit lounge or clandestine bar.
Long before anyone had the notion of mass USB-C charging stations powering enough lamps for a 300-strong wedding, there were candles and glass oil vessels dedicated to the strength and warmth of a single flame. The light was bronzy, food looked tasty, drinks elegant and inviting. And the diners, drinkers and canoodlers? Gorgeous and yummy. The outstretched hand was golden, a Patek would dazzle, a Cartier bangle would glisten and the bouncing glow would forgive wrinkles, eye luggage and the odd, stray whisker.
Today, the table lamp often just sits there, simply throwing more light onto our already overlit world. Why do you need them in a restaurant that is already so bright that it could double as a paint shop for airliners? On a recent trip to the Gulf, I was in a Lebanese joint that insisted on table lamps despite the heavy overhead array of spotlights and LED strips. Were these backups in case a drone took out the power grid, plunging us into a darkness and rendering us unable to find the fattoush salad? Or just added clutter and future landfill?
Restaurants make much of their sommeliers but instead of a lapel pin with a bunch of gold grapes, what about an elaborate glowing flame and a little light bulb. “Good evening, I’m Thierry, your chef d’ambience, and I’m here to oversee all of your lighting needs. I thought that we would start off with everything cosy and low and then we’ll see how the evening progresses.” In a sector that has been upsold lighting systems that are too complex for most staff to use – especially if they have to touch a screen with greasy fingers (most people in hospitality) – it’s time to get back to the original source, to candles and the flicker of real flames on tables.
Lighting technology has certainly improved but a hotel lobby or resort spa filled with hurricane-like lamps lit by plastic LED candles is a complete mood, brand and “experience” killer. Best to not bother with a candlelit moment if you can’t go with the real thing. It’s a bit like all those moments (take your pick of national holidays, the arrival of a new year, a fancy Indian wedding) that used to be marked by fireworks, now it’s a clinical, numbing, dull drone display.
There’s a good chance you’ll be entertaining this Sunday eve, this second day of August, so why not pull out your best brass from Skultuna and glass from Svenskt Tenn, find that box of matches and permanently park the LEDs. You and your guests will look much better for it.
Enjoying life in ‘The Faster Lane’? Click here to browse all of Tyler’s past columns.
