A whirlwind journey between cities, with a view of Europe beyond the train window
Good morning and welcome aboard this Faster Lane around-the-world journey that will take you by rail from Zürich to Milan, by air over to Paris, back on the rails to London and then by air to Austin, Hong Kong, Manila, back to Hong and up to Fukuoka. From there it’s the shinkansen to Kobe, Osaka and Tokyo and then we go from the glittering lights of Ginza STP (straight to plane) to Bangkok. After that it’s back up to Hong Kong, across to Paris and then Zürich. All in – this is a 24-day trip and we’re travelling carry-on only, so please pack light (we have no time for baggage carousels or lost luggage) and note that four nights will be spent in flight, so stuff your most appropriate jammies in your tote and off we go!
Milan part one
On Monday evening I pulled into Milano Centrale from Zürich after a swift, efficient SBB journey through the mountains, across valleys and along the lakes of Ticino. For three decades, my arrival has always been the same. Whether I’m travelling by rail or air, Mario has always been on hand to greet me and zip me around Milan, across Lombardy, down to Forte dei Marmi or up to St Moritz. By train, the drill is to hang a right after the platforms, descend the stairs, do a left, cross the street and look out for the Mercedes-Benz E-Class. On Monday, it was all exactly as I’ve done it for 30 years until I pulled open the back door and was greeted by Enzo rather than Mario. “Signor Tyler,” he started. “I’m so sorry that it’s me driving you today but Mario has retired. I’m going to be driving you from now on.” Enzo put my case in the boot and, as we pulled out into the traffic and made our way to the Four Seasons, I was jolted back to the summer of 1996. How many times had I done this journey? How many times had Mario asked about Mama and Nonna? And how many times had we pulled up in front of Armani, Prada, Gucci, Moncler et al for a show, party or meeting? But most importantly, how much will I miss you, Signor Mario? Grazie for getting me to all those early Malpensa flights, for breaking every possible law of the Codice della Strada and for always delivering me, my family and colleagues safely, in comfort and on time.
Milan part two
“In three to four years we will no longer be in the e-commerce business. Our focus will be fully on physical retail and hospitality.” This from the CEO of a major Italian luxury group.
Milan part three
Indochine (of New York fame) has thrown open its doors in Armani’s building on Via Manzoni and what a welcome addition to the city’s restaurant scene. We love our Milan institutions but after four nights of risotto, pasta and assorted classics, a plate of Vietnamese spring rolls is a very good thing.
Milan part four
The images of protests across Europe two weeks ago told only part of the picture. With much international coverage focused on Paris, I was shocked by the mindless destruction in Milan. Across various corners of the city, shops and banks were boarded up, crews were installing new steel shutters, walls of glass were being fitted into place and elderly shopkeepers could be seen scrubbing away graffiti. Everywhere there are signs that something has gone seriously wrong, not only in Italy but across Europe in general.
Milan part five
I turned on the TV and caught an investigative report on a rolling news channel about rioters and looters being injured by tear-gas canisters, water cannons and rubber bullets. The tone was that modern riot control is too heavy-handed. Really? I think that independent business owners and citizens who prefer law and order might think otherwise and feel zero sympathy for a looter who has lost a few fingers while emptying a trainer shop.
Paris
Do you remember the journey into Paris from CDG 10 years ago? While the logistics warehouses and outer suburbs have never been much to look at, the view is now an endless corridor of defaced surfaces. Since the riots, that corridor now snakes into much of the city. I landed in Paris on Wednesday and could only feel anger at the damage caused and was left wondering how long it’s going to take for Paris to right itself from shattered streetscapes, derelict shop spaces, scorched cavities and broken infrastructure. For sure, much of the city looks completely normal and remains unscathed but what about all those small businesses that will never re-open across the 1st, 2nd and 3rd arrondissements? One solution might be to ask France’s biggest corporations and families to pitch in and assist with the clean-up but you’d be quickly and rightly reminded that they already pay enough in taxes to the state and it’s down to the lawmakers to get a tighter grip on things.
London
How utterly calm compared to the Continent. A busy Midori House with the December/January issue soon heading to press, a city getting gussied up for Christmas, yummy bites and Basque bubbles at Maset and a super-comfortable stay at the St Clement. See you at our Christmas market weekend from 12 December.
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