Bars and restaurants
Els Pescadors, Poblenou
The sun-filled, whitewashed Plaça de Prim is in the quiet residential area of Poblenou. The small plaza is populated by three ancient ombu trees, the last remaining 19th-century homes of the seaside fishermen’s neighbourhood and, most importantly, the shady terrace of Els Pescadors. In keeping with the tranquil square’s maritime tradition, the tavern has been serving simple yet superb roast fish, seafood stews and rice dishes since 1980. The terrace is a perfect spot to enjoy a leisurely lunch while the worn, marble tabletops and dark wooden trim of the welcoming dining room hark back to another era.
Bar Brutal, El Born
In Spain, describing something as brutal (pronounced “broo-tahl”) is one of the highest forms of praise. By fusing Italian, Spanish and classic Catalan dishes, co-founders and twin brothers Max and Stefano Colombo have created a truly brutal menu and atmosphere – securing its place as one of Barcelona’s go-to gastronomic haunts. As you enter through its sister wine bar Can Cisa, be sure to circle back for a copa of natural, biodynamic wine.
Xemei, Poble-sec
Don’t expect much meat at Xemei. Serving Venetian food since 2006, here it’s all about the fruits of the sea, with highlights including a particularly tasty squid-ink spaghetti. Helmed by the gregarious twins behind Bar Brutal, this off-piste restaurant is perched on the skirt of the Montjuïc hill, making it a local favourite (especially because it’s less likely to be trampled by blow-in tourists). The intimate dining room with its eclectic mementoes, well-worn furniture and organic wine gives diners plenty of table-talk material to last late into the night.
Casa Costa, La Barceloneta
After a long spell under the sun, this easy-going restaurant overlooking La Barceloneta is the perfect, spontaneous pitstop. While they serve beach-friendly tapas such as patatas bravas, lightly battered calamari or ceviched mejillones (mussels), you can also indulge in heartier dishes such as the grilled octopus with maitake mushroom or a cheeky veal schnitzel before reclaiming your spot on a beach towel for a post-feast siesta to round out the afternoon.
Bistrot Levante, Barri Gòtic
Named after the wind that wafts from the eastern Mediterranean, this spot is a breath of fresh air in a city brimming with too-trendy tapas bars. Dishes are light, simple and vegetable-laden with plenty of za’atar, plus piles of pita and hummus served with kumquat. Its bean scene is top-notch too, with organic coffee from a gleaming Milan-made Rocket Espresso machine. Owner Emiliano Armani’s training as both architect and chef ensures an easy equilibrium between dishes and decor – and its central location makes it ideal for a last-minute business lunch.
Bar Gresca, L’Eixample
Sister establishment to popular Restaurante Gresca next door, this gastrobar serves up Catalan comfort food, including Spain’s answer to the toastie – the bikini sandwich – served with top-quality comté and lomo ibérico (pork loin) from fêted producer Manuel Maldonado. The laudable wine list is in the hundreds, which is best explored after securing one of the bar stools overlooking the busy kitchen.
Estimar, El Born
The legacy of legendary restaurant El Bulli, which shuttered in 2011, still influences the Catalan capital’s culinary scene. Estimar’s founder and head chef, Rafa Zafra, is an El Bulli graduate who puts a fresh spin on the marisquería (seafood restaurant), making it look and feel like an elevated market restaurant. Secluded down a narrow alleyway of El Born, inside you’ll find freshly caught fish laid out in a glistening iced display, teasing Zafra’s preference for the highest-quality regional specialities. Don’t miss the razor clams from Galicia, anchovies from Cantabria, the escórpora (red scorpionfish) or the popular onion and crayfish carpaccio.
Opens August 27, 2025
Nomad Coffee, Frutas Selectas, Poblenou
His reputation as Spain’s most decorated barista led Jordi Mestre to transform his espresso-sized café cart in London into a bricks-and-mortar coffee-tasting post in Barcelona in 2014. He has since expanded across two more locations – Frutas Selectas is the more laid-back roaster of the trio, offering pastries, sandwiches and a daily lunch menu.
Sips, L’Eixample
The brainchild of Simone Caporale (formerly of the Artesian bar at the Langham hotel in London) and Marc Álvarez (from Albert Adrià’s 41o), this innovative, award-winning space transcends the traditional bar experience. Here, guests don’t only sip on drinks but are invited to engage in the art of cocktail making. The open layout allows patrons to watch the bartenders in action, and the innovative glassware and tableware elevate the taste of each concoction. Call ahead to secure your spot at the bar.
The Green Spot, Ciutat Vella
A trip to the Green Spot is worth making just to admire its minimalist, nature-inspired decor by Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld. For vegetarians or vegans seeking meals that go beyond the basic salad, the cooking here is geared towards flavour, texture and making nutritious food. Wood-fired pizzas and tapas – with Mediterranean, Latin American and Asian influences – join vibrant salads of wild greens and healthy pastas. Perfect for a relaxed lunch or an intimate dinner.
