Neighbourhoods
Prenzlauer Berg
A lively weave of leafy lanes and independent shops.
It is easy to while away a whole day in this pleasant hilltop neighbourhood just north of Mitte. Flanked by Mauerpark, where the Berlin Wall used to stand, this touristy neighbourhood is especially busy on weekends. To fully enjoy the quarter, start your day at Pfefferberg, a cultural complex that is home to the Tchoban Foundation, an institution dedicated to the history of architectural drawings. Choriner Strasse, a street decorated with festival streamers, leads all the way up to village-like Kollwitzkiez, the heart of Prenzlauer Berg. Explore the farmer’s market at Kollwitzplatz, admire the Wasserturm – an old water tower converted into apartments – and browse the English-language secondhand books at Saint George’s. Venture further north for a coffee at Kajumi or Kaffee Büro, or order an aperitivo and a bite at Café Frieda or Ita Bistro by Helmholtplatz. On your way back down, duck into Becketts Kopf for a nightcap or take a stroll along leafy Kastanienallee and have a glass of wine at Pluto.
Hansaviertel
A lived-in quarter with an artistic spirit.
This sleepy residential district is off the beaten track but offers endless treasures for those interested in modern architecture. The neighbourhood was built in 1957 for Interbau, an exhibition meant to showcase the quality of life in the West, and features plenty of green space interspersed with tall apartment buildings by Walter Gropius, Alvar Aalto and Oscar Niemeyer. Accessible for visits are the Akademie der Künste on Hanseatenweg, which hosts art exhibitions and frequent screenings; Fulds, a showroom inside the Eternithaus; the beautiful Kaiser-Friedrich Gedächtnis Kirche; and the serene, glass-walled Hansabibliothek. There is plenty more to discover by just walking around. If a break is needed, rest your legs at Café Tiergarten, a newly renovated spot serving coffee, pastries and natural wine.
Charlottenburg
Polished streets with a global buzz.
A first-time visitor to Berlin might find it bewildering that there are two city centres. Charlottenburg was the longtime core of the more affluent West Berlin and most high-end shops are still lined up on the main thoroughfare Ku’Damm. To start, a pit stop at the OMA-designed oyster bar on the 6th floor of KaDeWe is always a good idea. Step inside the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a modernist building built next to a ruin, or check out an exhibition at C/O Berlin. Lined up on Fasanenstrasse is Grisebach, the country’s leading auction house, and Buchholz, a gallery that represents Berlin-based artists such as Anne Imhof and Wolfgang Tillmans. To end the night, head to Pars, an artist-run chocolatier that has expanded into a Michelin-starred restaurant, or dive into the creative scene at the art-filled Paris Bar.
