Neighbourhoods
Wan Chai
It’s the Hong Kong of the imagination
Wan Chai is a busy and diverse neighbourhood on Hong Kong Island. Home to the clubs of the city’s red-light district – a little less noisy and raucous than before – it also hosts big businesses, government departments and charming heritage buildings. Average incomes are among the highest in Hong Kong and there are plenty of places to treat yourself, including for dinner at the Grand Hyatt Steakhouse or a spin through the famous Wan Chai Computer Centre. Starstreet Precinct is one of the best places to see a mix of historic and modern Hong Kong architecture. While many of the city’s old, traditional shop-houses have been torn down, those around Star Street have been preserved. Many retain their original functions, with businesses on ground level and apartments on the upper floors. This cluster of streets is home to independent shops and cafés that offer a more personal retail experience. Blend & Grind is the neighbourhood’s coffee corner and Basao takes tea just as seriously. Both have space to sit outside and watch the neighbourhood come and go. Stroll over to The Monocle Shop in St Francis Yard to pick up our neighbourhood guide for a full run-down of where to go.
Tai Hang
Here the pace slows and traditions abound
Amid the hustle and bustle of Causeway Bay, it’s hard to imagine that a small neighbourhood such as Tai Hang exists just minutes away. Tai Hang means “big water channel” and the area once sat directly on Victoria Harbour before land reclamation made room for nearby Victoria Park. The small grid of streets at the heart of Tai Hang, a favoured filmmaking location, is the most interesting part of the neighbourhood. Every year the community mounts the now famous Fire Dragon parade during the mid-autumn festival, drawing large crowds to this usually quiet enclave (there’s a heritage centre if you want to know more).
Most of the buildings here are converted shop-houses. While some are still home to the garages and workshops that the area has long been known for, others have been transformed into cafés, restaurants and art galleries. Shophouse is well worth a visit. French-style bakery Plumcot makes the best pastries in Hong Kong but stroll over to Fineprint if you want coffee. Kanamono Hardware has been a Monocle favourite since it opened in 2015; you’re bound to spot something you want to buy in this cosy cornershop. After heading up the hill to Haw Par Mansion to see an eclectic home built in the 1930s by the founder of Tiger Balm, a popular muscle rub, check in at Little Tai Hang and put your feet up.
Kennedy Town
Where expats come to enjoy the breezy life
Kennedy Town used to be considered a sleepy backwater until an extension to Hong Kong Island’s subway line in 2014 made the northwestern district more accessible. Since then it has become a popular home for the city’s expat population, who previously stayed close to the Mid-Levels, a hilly enclave above Central. Its waterfront location provides a fresh breeze and many apartments come with views of the harbour.
Proximity to Hong Kong University, the city’s oldest and most prestigious education centre, provides K Town’s cafés, bars and brunch spots with a steady stream of hungry customers. Go to Winstons for coffee and Slowood for a thoughtful gift before heading to the promenade for a stroll along the waterfront. This self-contained community has an independent cinema and a world-class swimming pool designed by UK architect Terry Farrell. For a truly memorable experience, take an early morning dip at the Sai Wan Swimming Shed. Then, walk down the hill for breakfast at Sun Hing; this dim sum restaurant, legendary among night owls and early risers, opens at 03.00.
