Bars & Restaurants
Foxy, Nisantasi
A slick little wine bar offers a wide menu of Turkish vintages, which are undergoing something of a quiet revival. Entrepreneurs and hobbyists are searching out old vineyards and partnering with wineries that use traditional Anatolian methods to return with some fine Turkish bottles. At Foxy, everything from the heady red boğazkere (or “throat burner”) to the naturally fizzy pet nat is served alongside a small mezze menu designed by co-founder and Neolokal head chef Maksut Askar.
Fahri Konsolos, Kadikoy
This tiny cocktail bar has built up a huge following and on busy nights customers spill onto the pavement to get a taste of its mixologists’ creations. Herbs are dried, mashed, charred and smoked before being infused into cocktails. The drinks are inspired by Anatolian ingredients and flavours, and the compact menu changes regularly. Arrive early to nab a spot at the bar and watch the crew perform its magic.
Caferaga, Dr Esat Isik Cd, No 30 D:C, 34710
Nevizade, Beyoglu
The meyhane (literally “alcohol house”) is the ultimate Turkish night out: a heady brew of grilled fish, mezze, raki, conversation and song. Tables are big and plates can be ordered as and when you need them – some meyhane evenings can last all night. For quality food and true taste of Istanbul, head to Nevizade, a street of meyhane close to Beyoglu’s fish market, where the tables are packed in close enough that you might end up raising a toast to your neighbours.
Huseynaga, 34435, Beyoglu
Neolokal, Karakoy
The inventive cuisine of chef Maksut Askar was recognised with a Michelin star in 2022 but this sleek, friendly restaurant has been a favourite of discerning locals and well-informed visitors for more than a decade. Askar’s artistic flair means that he pays as much attention to his plating as to visitors’ palates. His signature dishes, including muhammara, a walnut-and-pepper paste, are modern spins on the Arabic-influenced dishes of Hatay, his home region and Turkey’s culinary capital. Neolokal’s setting is stunning too: its floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the Golden Horn and the old neighbourhood of Balat beyond.
Kokorec, Citywide
Whereas other countries turn to kebab for post-pub food, the Turks have a delicious secret: kokorec. This concoction of sweetmeats and spices is also slow cooked on a rotary but the result, served crumbled between fluffy white bread, is closer to haggis than kebab. You’ll find places serving it everywhere after dark. It’s often paired with ayran, a salted yoghurt drink, and you can ask for your kokorec to be acisiz (not spicy) or acili (spicy). And, if you still need an extra kick, you’ll find pots of punchy little jalapeños on your table. Nothing mops up an Istanbul night out faster.
Karakoy Lokantasi, Karakoy
We were dismayed when this lunchtime staple lost its home to the renovation of the Karakoy district but it has found new premises nearby and managed to recreate its old magic. The iconic interior of deep-blue tiles and white tablecloths matches the elegance of its menu, which includes takes on Turkish classics: think vegetables stuffed with meat, smoky dips and rich stews. Sultan’s Delight – slow-cooked cubes of beef on a bed of charred aubergine mash – is the one that keeps us coming back.
Ciya, Kadikoy
Musa Dagdeviren, the proprietor of this bustling spot, describes himself as a “food anthropologist” dedicated to tracing Turkey’s rich gastronomical roots. The concept at Ciya is canteen-like; you pick your dishes from the glass counters at the entrance, take a seat and, within seconds, your banquet is brought to your table. Dagdeviren’s team execute flawless modern takes on classics from across Anatolia, including stuffed vine leaves, casseroles of lamb and quince, buttery rice and courgette fritters. Finish your night off with a cup of strong tea and a piece of the house baklava with ice cream.
Caferaga Mah, Guneslibahce Sk, No 44, Kadikoy
Arkestra, Etiler
The Michelin-starred Arkestra feels more like a laid-back, arty members’ club than a stiff fine-dining spot. Head chef Cenk Debensason and his wife and business partner, Debora Ipekel, maintain a relaxed atmosphere, often stepping out to chat with guests after service. The retro interiors are dressed in earthy tones, and a kooky jasmine-draped courtyard sets the scene for a menu of modern European dishes assembled with ingredients sourced around Istanbul. Don’t miss the signature tuna sushi with rice ice cream, an inspired classic that has been on the card since day one.
Pandeli, Eminonu
Make a stop here for elevated lunchtime food in one of the most atmospheric settings in Istanbul: the upper level of the iconic Spice Bazaar. Its cavernous interior is covered in thousands of rich, blue glazed tiles and its windows look out over the bustle of Eminonu – one of the city’s busiest passenger ports. Start with small plates of fried liver and stuffed vine leaves, before enjoying roasted hunks of lamb on a smoky aubergine bed. The waiters execute their busy duties like performance art.
Del Mare, Cengelkoy
With panoramic views of Istanbul’s cross-continental suspension bridge, Del Mare is the choice for any special occasion. Serving some of the very best fish and mezze in the city, the energy is buzzy and the wait staff are friendly without being overbearing. Downstairs, its sister restaurant, Salvatore, offers Italian cuisine by the waterside. You can arrange to arrive by boat if you prefer a big entrance, so put on your finest attire.
