Neighbourhoods
Balat
A vivacious district with old-school charm
Balat has been many things over the centuries: the seat of Eastern Christianity, a home to Jewish immigrants fleeing the Spanish Inquisition and, today, a Roma district that is also one of the hippest spots in the city. This Golden Horn neighbourhood shows all the layers of its history through its churches and synagogues, its grand coloured houses and the panache of its current custodians. Turkey’s Roma are feted musicians and their weddings are a thing to behold – if you’re lucky enough to be here when one is underway, feel free to join in with the dancing. Balat’s two sides have found a balance. Around every corner, you’ll find genuine slices of working-class Istanbul life. Besides the Roma population, the area is home to migrants from the Black Sea region who are religious and conservative. But recently, historians, architects and artists have begun moving in and renovating historic houses, and coffee shops and boutiques have followed. The result is a rare glimpse into Istanbul’s cosmopolitan past, as well as its lesser-discovered present.
Kadikoy
An artisanal outpost perfect for a city break
Kadikoy, the centre of Istanbul’s Asian side, was a well-kept secret until a few years ago. But an explosion of new clubs, cafés, restaurants and boutiques has turned this district into a booming weekend destination. The Caferaga neighbourhood is a tight grid of small streets crammed with independent businesses, including ceramics, jewellers, fashion designers and other artisans, as well as plenty of vintage shops stuffed with great finds. Yeldegirmeni, close to Kadikoy port, is rougher around the edges but has seen a recent revival through its atelier craftsmen, including carpenters and instrument-makers. Parts of the district are, unfortunately, now teetering on the verge of Disneyfication, and high rents along with the weekend ruckus from the bars are driving many original residents out. But if you spend enough time here, you’ll still find plenty of hidden spots where locals go to enjoy a more sedate way of Istanbul living. Seek out a shady back garden in one of the area’s historic cafés (we recommend the storied Baylan) or wander around Fenerbahce Park, a hidden oasis on a tiny peninsula in the Sea of Marmara.
Karakoy
A newly updated enclave by the glistening shore
The waterside quarter in the heart of old Istanbul carried the grunginess of a port district until its recent renovation. Kickstarted by the development of Galataport, the city’s new cruise-ship terminal, Karakoy has been cleaned up and put in order. Once-abandoned buildings have been transformed into The Peninsula hotel; a closed public plaza has been reopened; and the alleyways of the backstreets are far more welcoming than they once were, with upmarket brands moving in. If it’s authenticity that you’re after, then head under Galata Bridge to the less-visited side of the neighbourhood, where you’ll find the historic Karakoy fish market. Here locals buy the day’s catch to take home fresh but you can also have your choice cooked up straight away at one of the griddle stands. Opt for the classic balik ekmek (fish in a fluffy bread sandwich) or take it in a wrap.
