Retail
Ferikoy antiques market
Every Sunday, a covered market in a drab corner of inner-city Istanbul transforms into a cavern stuffed with treasures. There are 450 stalls at Ferikoy antiques market, offering everything from flea-market finds to vinyl records and rare furniture. It’s an institution for new arrivals to Istanbul who are looking to furnish an apartment in a suitably eclectic style. There’s plenty to covet here, including old leather suitcases, delicate glassware and sumptuous chandeliers. But for more transportable trinkets there’s a bounty of jewellery, pipes and old coins. A great place to seek out one-off gifts and get a feel for the unique style of the city.
Kadikoy Carsi, Kadikoy
At the heart of any Istanbul community sits the carsi (high street). In Kadikoy, two long pedestrian streets and adjoining passages are stuffed with fish and vegetable stalls, charcuterie, bakeries, coffee houses, trinket shops, confectioners, herbal-medicine vendors, fortune tellers and anything else that you might need. It’s the best place in the city to pick up culinary souvenirs and shop as the Turks do. As well as olive oils, dried fruits, Turkish delight, nuts and jams, you can also find places selling classic crockery and coffee pots. If you’re feeling peckish, pop into delicatessen Gozde and pick from its huge selection of mezze, which you can eat on its tiny terrace or take to the nearby corniche for a picnic.
Grand Bazaar, Beyazit, Fatih
For nearly 600 years the Grand Bazaar has been Istanbul’s commercial heart, the place where gold is traded, jackets can be made to measure, rare antiquities are bought and sold and, often, tourists are strong-armed into purchases. Don’t let that put you off: a day spent strolling this labyrinthine complex, with its domed stone ceilings, rowdy salesmen and singular atmosphere, is a must. Plan your trip beforehand. The bazaar is actually an entire district encompassing 66 streets, five mosques, 17 workshops and about 4,000 shops, which are divided into sections like a department store. March straight through the tourist traps on the main drag and seek out the antiques, leather and fabric sections, where there are plenty of unique and well-priced finds to be nabbed.
Rind, Kadikoy
Blink and you’ll miss the narrow frontage of this cavern-like wine shop, where you can buy bottles from Turkey and its neighbouring countries. Look for the Moldovan and Bulgarian whites – both are surprisingly excellent. The shop also has a great inventory of Italian, French and New World wines as well as local and imported spirits. In the fridge at the back of the shop, there’s a small selection of Turkish IPAs – take one down to the nearby Kadikoy corniche to watch the sun set over Topkapi Palace.
Mummu, Kadikoy
The jewellers at Mummu, a tiny atelier, create structural designs from striking materials including brass, silver and semi-precious stones. Their geometric cuff necklace adorns one of the main characters in Hollywood blockbuster Black Panther: Wakanda Forever and their pieces are coveted by customers around the world. The range is beautifully curated and updated often. Think bohemian earrings, statement rings and stackable pendant necklaces.
Soy, Grand Bazaar and Atasehir
Emir Ali Enc’s handmade hammered copper and silver kitchenware pieces are modern Istanbul classics and can be found in the city’s top restaurants and bars, as well as in the most fashionable homes (and palaces, it’s whispered) across Europe. Enc lived in Aleppo and Damascus two decades ago and learnt the art of metal-hammering in its souks. His workshop employs master craftsmen as well as experts in polishing and shaping. The cezve – the small, long-handled pot that Turkish coffee is brewed in – makes for a perfect gift or splash out on the covetable two-tone cocktail shaker.
Fey, Nisantasi
Fatos Yalin Arkun’s boutique feels like a party, from the decadent lounge area and the jazzy background music to the ostentatious outfits. Everything that you’ll need to make an impression at Istanbul’s most fashionable get-togethers – slinky dresses, sequinned jumpsuits, retro accessories and killer shoes – is on offer. Arkun’s husband runs a menswear brand upstairs, where the overall atmosphere leans more on the everyday with a focus on simple block colours and classic cuts.
Karakoy Gulluoglu, Karakoy
This iconic baklava shop and café, with its retro-tiled interior, is a facsimile of the original establishment that was moved from its site just down the road during the upgrade of the Karakoy district. But the same spirit and taste are still here in pieces of nut-filled, honey-covered filo pastry in every shape and combination. If you’re planning to take your baklava on the plane or give it as a gift, let the staff know and they’ll wrap it accordingly.
Zorlu Center, Levent
Modern Istanbul’s response to the Grand Bazaar, the Zorlu Center is a sprawling Gotham-like complex of glass towers perched on a hillside next to the Bosphorus. Inside, there are luxury boutiques, restaurants and bars, one of the city’s biggest music venues, offices, apartments and a Raffles hotel. Alongside international brands, there are plenty of Turkish names worth checking out. Have a look in Vakko, Ipekyol and Beymen for clothing and Pasabahce for glassware. Keep an eye on the events schedule: you can often catch international acts playing here, as well as the biggest Turkish and regional stars.
Caretta, Kadikoy
“Life’s too short to wear ugly glasses” is Caretta’s motto and there is no danger of that at this small backstreet boutique, where models from some of Europe’s coolest brands are stylishly displayed alongside vintage pieces. The knowledgeable and friendly shop stylists will spend as long as it takes to fit you with the perfect pair. Bring them your repair jobs too.
